Clock conversion to qartz movement

I have restored and cleaned my 71 Mustang's clock, bench-tested it successfully for three days and after returning the precious into the cluster, it went up in smoke when connected to 12V again. It was a complete meltdown! Internals of the clock were fried. After disassembly I found the cause were sticking points.

The lucky part was, it was not yet installed in the freshly restored Mach 1. I stood next to it, saw the smoke and pulled the plug. Could have been desastrous and barbecue the whole car if it were already in!

Now I plan to remove the burned parts and install a quartz conversion kit. I have seen them for the Borg-made clocks in the 1970 Mustangs and other cars, but none for the 71-73. I guess the clock is made by another supplier, Westclox or General Time. Did anyone of you convert his clock to qartz? Can the kits for the Borg clocks be customized to run in our cars?

Michael

Hi Spechti.

Them sticking points are the only reason our clocks have meltdowns!

Mine also melted the tracks in the circuit board ...

I wasn't joking when I said these clocks are a potential fire hazard 24/7.

This is why when I replaced my clock with another used one from ebay in excellent condition, the first thing I did is install a hidden on/off switch.

I don't take my car to too many official runs, but when I do I adjust the time and turn it on.

Realistically, we've got the time everywhere these days, the clock is more cosmetic than anything else...

Come to think of it, becuase the time is on our phones which we carry everywhere, I can't remember the last time I wore my TAG watch!

I wouldn't be surprised if the battery has gone flat on it...hehe

Have not seen any quartz movements for our clocks. My clock is center console based and not on the dash.

You probably only smoked the coils which can be repaired. The way the clock works is when the mainspring

winds down the points make contact and fire the coils. The resulting electromagnet knocks a hammer against

the mainspring and rewinds it. When the points eventually wear out, they stick together and the coils get

continuous full battery juice. A friend made a device that uses the points to trip a circuit which then fires

the coils with a capacitor bank. No significant current at the points and no direct connection to the battery.

My clock keeps excellent time and I like the jerky second hand and tic, tic, tic sound.

mike

Thanks for the answers.

You probably only smoked the coils which can be repaired.

Click to expand...

I have thoroughly inspected the guts of the clock. The coils indeed would be reconditionable by rewinding them, but the other internals close to them are completely fried. Most fatal was the total melting of every plastic part or gear. The parts that glowed in heat, such as the contact spring, became brittle from the heat and does not spring anymore.

I think that one is killed forever.

Now there are 3 options:

1. Convert to a tach cluster (which is surely more useful in a car than the clock). Unfortuunately I need the expensive tach cluster and a new harness.

2. Have the clock professionally rebuilt with a customized quartz movement

3. Trying to find a NOS movement

the nos movement is a pain also, i got one, NOS and it worked but does not keep time at all, its off by hours each day, but it ticks along.

actually i should disconnect mine, it has been running for almost 6 years now.

Thanks for the answers.

You probably only smoked the coils which can be repaired.

Click to expand...

I have thoroughly inspected the guts of the clock. The coils indeed would be reconditionable by rewinding them, but the other internals close to them are completely fried. Most fatal was the total melting of every plastic part or gear. The parts that glowed in heat, such as the contact spring, became brittle from the heat and does not spring anymore.

I think that one is killed forever.

Now there are 3 options:

1. Convert to a tach cluster (which is surely more useful in a car than the clock). Unfortuunately I need the expensive tach cluster and a new harness.

2. Have the clock professionally rebuilt with a customized quartz movement

3. Trying to find a NOS movement

Click to expand...

4. Install the M7123S tachometer in the clock position. http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all#tachs

I have thoroughly inspected the guts of the clock. The coils indeed would be reconditionable by rewinding them, but the other internals close to them are completely fried. Most fatal was the total melting of every plastic part or gear. The parts that glowed in heat, such as the contact spring, became brittle from the heat and does not spring anymore.

I think that one is killed forever.

Now there are 3 options:

1. Convert to a tach cluster (which is surely more useful in a car than the clock). Unfortuunately I need the expensive tach cluster and a new harness.

2. Have the clock professionally rebuilt with a customized quartz movement

3. Trying to find a NOS movement

Click to expand...

I once had four of the console mounted clocks and got them on eBay.

There is a place that will either restore the clock or install a quartz

movement, but they look expensive :s

www.paspeedo.com

mike

4. Install the M7123S tachometer in the clock position.

Click to expand...

Wow! I am speechless! This is the coolest one ever.

I guess this is the way to go. In any case the tach is more useful than a clock. Thanks for the nice and helpful link.

I have an idiot light gauge from a spare cluster on the shelf that I can use as a core. The good thing is, nothing on the existig system or harness has to be modified. Only three additional cables for the tach have to be routed (ign, coil an gnd).

Michael

I used this company to repair my clock to original. They also do quartz conversions. http://www.clockwks.com/The_Clock_Worx.html

I heard of them before and had contact some time ago. Thanks for the link.

But I like the idea with the tachometer conversion much more and will go that way.

Michael