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Converting 351C to 45 degree thermostat housing


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Cast iron's coefficient of expansion is 10.8 um/m K; aluminum is 22.2. That's a ratio of 2.05 to 1.

 

I have a phobia of re-doing leaking fittings.

 

-Kurt

 

Actually, it is 2.0555556.

 

Actually depends on the Kelvin or Fahrenheit scale

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:dodgy:

 

Bet you fellows are a real cutup when a convention comes to town.

 

-Kurt

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They are thousands out there that do not leak.

 

Thousands eh? Isn't saying that a bit like 83.4% of statisics are made up on the spot? I think what wrote is an assumption rather than what seems to be a statement of fact, ie how do you know there are thousands?

 

Can we get a show of hands on how many here have one installed and have no leaks? What gasket are you using? Maybe I need a better one? Maybe I have a defective block? Maybe aluminum is not a good material for the water neck in this configuration?:)

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I have had both cast and aluminum water necks on every Ford I owned. I have had both leak.

 

I have had both stamped and cast aluminum valve covers on every Ford I owned. I have had both leak.

 

On the only 2 cars I owned with aluminum heads and iron blocks, I had head gaskets leak and destroy the motor.

 

Now, the question is, how much of this is operator error? Hell, I am still waiting for an engine stand I spray painted back in July to not be tacky. So, I guess it is me.

 

In any event, I select the material that will last the longest. And I imagine that is iron. So I choose the iron because I suspect that will leak the longest.

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351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude

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When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me

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They are thousands out there that do not leak.

 

Thousands eh? Isn't saying that a bit like 83.4% of statisics are made up on the spot? I think what wrote is an assumption rather than what seems to be a statement of fact, ie how do you know there are thousands?

 

Can we get a show of hands on how many here have one installed and have no leaks? What gasket are you using? Maybe I need a better one? Maybe I have a defective block? Maybe aluminum is not a good material for the water neck in this configuration?:)

 

Well how long have they been around, I dont believe they were invented yesterday. but I gave 2 other options for ones who have aluminum phobias

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Can we get a show of hands on how many here have one installed and have no leaks? What gasket are you using? Maybe I need a better one? Maybe I have a defective block? Maybe aluminum is not a good material for the water neck in this configuration?:)

 

I'll give you a show of hands for both. My '79 Continental has a steel water neck, and it doesn't leak.

 

Five years ago, my father did the lifters on the '78, and replaced the housing with an aluminum one. It isn't leaking either. I'll photograph the gasket though, for I'm not convinced there isn't a bit of RTV hanky-panky going on with it.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Can we get a show of hands on how many here have one installed and have no leaks? What gasket are you using? Maybe I need a better one? Maybe I have a defective block? Maybe aluminum is not a good material for the water neck in this configuration?:)

 

I'll give you a show of hands for both. My '79 Continental has a steel water neck, and it doesn't leak.

 

Five years ago, my father did the lifters on the '78, and replaced the housing with an aluminum one. It isn't leaking either. I'll photograph the gasket though, for I'm not convinced there isn't a bit of RTV hanky-panky going on with it.

 

-Kurt

 

 

Hey you got something against silicone and hanky - panky ??? :blush:

I think they go together :angel:

Ohio Mustang Supply

440-949-2556

 

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Hey you got something against silicone and hanky - panky ??? :blush:

I think they go together :angel:

 

HAH! lollerz

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

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Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I recently just rebuilt my brother's 351w and it has an aluminum water neck that was originally on a cast iron intake with no leaks. After the rebuild it got an aluminum intake and it does not leak now either. I used a felpro gasket and a thin coating of RTV to hold the gasket on while installing and fill in the small imperfections in the mating surfaces. I've used this method for many things including water pumps and thermostat housings (amongst others).

Jayson

504x177https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36319488731_8f2a376549_z.jpg[/img]

73 Mach 1 Mustang

89 Dodge Shadow ES

94 Jeep Wrangler

 

 

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Which RTV did you use? I was figuring on spray-sealant to hold the gasket to the T-stat housing, and Permatex's Water Pump & Thermostat sealant on the bolt threads and at the bottom of the gasket.

 

I have the Felpro gasket on hand; it's one of the first things I picked up for the car.

 

FYI, I was able to acquire a confirmed steel housing, and I also have one of unknown material also on its way. We'll see what shows up...

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

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Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I usually just use the black stuff and have had no problems. If there is a specific coolat compatible rtv I suggest to try that first. I'm thinking of doing this if/when I go to a duraspark setup.

Jayson

504x177https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36319488731_8f2a376549_z.jpg[/img]

73 Mach 1 Mustang

89 Dodge Shadow ES

94 Jeep Wrangler

 

 

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Use an adhesive silicone I have had better results with it.

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Indian-Head gasket shellac?

 

-Kurt


Here we go - the efforts of this evening under the hood:

 

Beauty and the beast - not necessarily in that order. 4-Seasons #84876 at left, aluminum; Autotemp W2454 at right, steel:

 

71_mustang_33.jpg

 

Getting ready:

 

71_mustang_34.jpg

 

Robert Shaw 333-192 thermostat in place:

 

71_mustang_35.jpg

 

Due to a frozen distributor, it took me about an hour to realize that I couldn't get around the reality that I'd have to squeeze a 1/2" wrench under the vacuum advance to get the housing onto the car.

 

So be it; the bolt needed to be tightened, so I did it the hard way and succeeded. Now to pickle that distributor:

 

71_mustang_36.jpg

 

The Gates hose was cut down 1-1/2", and installed as neat as one could ever ask for:

 

71_mustang_37.jpg

 

I hate direct-flash photography. I'm also quite glad that a replacement battery tray is on its way - I only hope the corroded-beyond-removal-by-socket bolts will react well to being slotted with a grinder.

 

71_mustang_38.jpg

 

Tomorrow is the moment of truth - filling the system up and pressure testing it.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Blue RTV

 

Is obsolete. Ultra black is more oil resistant, and doesn't break apart under torque.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.

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I only hope the corroded-beyond-removal-by-socket bolts will react well to being slotted with a grinder.

 

-Kurt

 

Soak those bolts/nuts in Aero KROIL. This is hard to find, but if you are dealing with rusty parts, N O T H I N G can match the ability of this stuff to get through the rust and allow you to remove those parts without busting them at the thread or stripping off the head.

 

Around here in LA, it can be found at McFadden Dale.

11jmcuc.png

351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude

Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

 

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me

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Just started her up for the first time and let the T-stat open. Zero leaks - period.

 

I used nothing but Permatex Form-A-Gasket No #3, which is a close relative to the Indian Head gasket shellac. This is apparently the same stuff my father used on the '78 Lincoln that has the aluminum housing that has yet to leak after 6 years. I figured that was good enough a sales pitch - and it seems to work.

 

Soak those bolts/nuts in Aero KROIL. This is hard to find, but if you are dealing with rusty parts, N O T H I N G can match the ability of this stuff to get through the rust and allow you to remove those parts without busting them at the thread or stripping off the head.

 

Around here in LA, it can be found at McFadden Dale.

 

One of the local bike shops uses Kroil. I'll ask him his source.

 

Will Kroil also work on aluminum oxide? I'm figuring that's the problem associated with my stuck dizzy.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Glad to hear it worked out for you, nice work. So you didn't use a gasket?

 

I used FelPro's blue gasket, coated on both sides with the shellac. You can see it in its baggie sitting on the fender.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Duh, you said you were going to use it and you have the picture. I'll be over here if you need me. :whistling:

Jayson

504x177https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36319488731_8f2a376549_z.jpg[/img]

73 Mach 1 Mustang

89 Dodge Shadow ES

94 Jeep Wrangler

 

 

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Duh, you said you were going to use it and you have the picture. I'll be over here if you need me. :whistling:

 

Don't worry, we excuse Dodge owners around here ::tease::

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Hahaha, I can take a joke. I don't really have a preference, I think all of the car companies have their pros and cons.

Jayson

504x177https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36319488731_8f2a376549_z.jpg[/img]

73 Mach 1 Mustang

89 Dodge Shadow ES

94 Jeep Wrangler

 

 

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Hahaha, I can take a joke. I don't really have a preference, I think all of the car companies have their pros and cons.

 

Indeed. Heck, I like old Dodge products myself - I would probably be sitting on a '71 Coronet if there were any in town, but there aren't.

 

I'm not sold on GM though. Something about Q-jets, 350's, and overall build quality just rub me the wrong way.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I only hope the corroded-beyond-removal-by-socket bolts will react well to being slotted with a grinder.

 

-Kurt

Soak those bolts/nuts in Aero KROIL. This is hard to find, but if you are dealing with rusty parts, N O T H I N G can match the ability of this stuff to get through the rust and allow you to remove those parts without busting them at the thread or stripping off the head.

 

You sure about that? I head 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone is a little bit more effective, and cheaper to boot. Never tried it myself, have only ever used PB blaster.

 

Greg

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+1 on the Blaster

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Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.

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