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Joined
Aug 13, 2010
Messages
30
Reaction score
25
Location
Royal Palm Beach, Florida
My Car
1973 Mach1
Currently deep into a restomod on my 73 Mach 1 found lots of rust under the painted sheet metal( inner aprons, cowl, floor pan) during the replacement of the floor pans I found a nice set from Laurel Mountain Mustang that fit great. Well during the tear down found that the was lots of fiberglass hiding lots of rust holes in both left and right rear passenger floor pans and with my luck no reproduction part. I contacted National Parts Depot and found that they have 2 types of this floor pan both for earlier models. Looking at both decided to try the 66-68 model can be modified to fit 69-70. I asked for the measurement and it was preety close to what I needed to replace.

The only draw back is completely flat especially towards the area where the seat belt bolts to the floor pan. Mine was rusted in many areas so I decided to cut it out and patch it with a heavier gauge steel sheet metal. I am enclosing some pics to show how well it works. This may help others in the same situation I am.

20101230_IMG_0374.JPG20101230_IMG_0375.JPG20101230_IMG_0376.JPG20101230_IMG_0378.JPG20101230_IMG_0380.JPG

Please send me any feedback or any information if I am doing something wrong.;)

 
Currently deep into a restomod on my 73 Mach 1 found lots of rust under the painted sheet metal( inner aprons, cowl, floor pan) during the replacement of the floor pans I found a nice set from Laurel Mountain Mustang that fit great. Well during the tear down found that the was lots of fiberglass hiding lots of rust holes in both left and right rear passenger floor pans and with my luck no reproduction part. I contacted National Parts Depot and found that they have 2 types of this floor pan both for earlier models. Looking at both decided to try the 66-68 model can be modified to fit 69-70. I asked for the measurement and it was preety close to what I needed to replace.

The only draw back is completely flat especially towards the area where the seat belt bolts to the floor pan. Mine was rusted in many areas so I decided to cut it out and patch it with a heavier gauge steel sheet metal. I am enclosing some pics to show how well it works. This may help others in the same situation I am.

Please send me any feedback or any information if I am doing something wrong.;)
Looks really nice! I had the same problem on mine but alot worse ! I had to fabricate most of that area (by the seat belt anchor) One thing you should have done while you had the frame rail /torque box open is to use a product called rust bullet

http://www.rustbullet.com/

to coat the inside of the frame rail. Really pretty easy to do. A little trick is to fish a string through any hole in the rear of the rail.. cut a piece of sponge..tie the string to it...then tie one more string to it...dip the sponge in the rust bullit & one person in the back pulls the string to him (or her) then the guy in the front pulls it to him (like sawing) Lets you coat the entire inside of the rail...we did the rails & rockers on mine this way while I had access.

Scott

you can see the inside of my rail here it's the silver stuff on the inside








 
Currently deep into a restomod on my 73 Mach 1 found lots of rust under the painted sheet metal( inner aprons, cowl, floor pan) during the replacement of the floor pans I found a nice set from Laurel Mountain Mustang that fit great. Well during the tear down found that the was lots of fiberglass hiding lots of rust holes in both left and right rear passenger floor pans and with my luck no reproduction part. I contacted National Parts Depot and found that they have 2 types of this floor pan both for earlier models. Looking at both decided to try the 66-68 model can be modified to fit 69-70. I asked for the measurement and it was preety close to what I needed to replace.

The only draw back is completely flat especially towards the area where the seat belt bolts to the floor pan. Mine was rusted in many areas so I decided to cut it out and patch it with a heavier gauge steel sheet metal. I am enclosing some pics to show how well it works. This may help others in the same situation I am.

Please send me any feedback or any information if I am doing something wrong.;)
Looks really nice! I had the same problem on mine but alot worse ! I had to fabricate most of that area (by the seat belt anchor) One thing you should have done while you had the frame rail /torque box open is to use a product called rust bullet

http://www.rustbullet.com/

to coat the inside of the frame rail. Really pretty easy to do. A little trick is to fish a string through any hole in the rear of the rail.. cut a piece of sponge..tie the string to it...then tie one more string to it...dip the sponge in the rust bullit & one person in the back pulls the string to him (or her) then the guy in the front pulls it to him (like sawing) Lets you coat the entire inside of the rail...we did the rails & rockers on mine this way while I had access.

Scott

you can see the inside of my rail here it's the silver stuff on the inside


Yes I had to fabricate the area for the seat belt anchor and treated the entire area and frame rail with chassis saver after a good clean up. I will update with some pics soon

 
Looks really nice! I had the same problem on mine but alot worse ! I had to fabricate most of that area (by the seat belt anchor) One thing you should have done while you had the frame rail /torque box open is to use a product called rust bullet

http://www.rustbullet.com/

to coat the inside of the frame rail. Really pretty easy to do. A little trick is to fish a string through any hole in the rear of the rail.. cut a piece of sponge..tie the string to it...then tie one more string to it...dip the sponge in the rust bullit & one person in the back pulls the string to him (or her) then the guy in the front pulls it to him (like sawing) Lets you coat the entire inside of the rail...we did the rails & rockers on mine this way while I had access.

Scott

you can see the inside of my rail here it's the silver stuff on the inside

Do you need to clean the rust first with rust bullet?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks really nice! I had the same problem on mine but alot worse ! I had to fabricate most of that area (by the seat belt anchor) One thing you should have done while you had the frame rail /torque box open is to use a product called rust bullet

http://www.rustbullet.com/

to coat the inside of the frame rail. Really pretty easy to do. A little trick is to fish a string through any hole in the rear of the rail.. cut a piece of sponge..tie the string to it...then tie one more string to it...dip the sponge in the rust bullit & one person in the back pulls the string to him (or her) then the guy in the front pulls it to him (like sawing) Lets you coat the entire inside of the rail...we did the rails & rockers on mine this way while I had access.

Scott

you can see the inside of my rail here it's the silver stuff on the inside

Do you need to clean the rust first with rust bullet?

everything you need to know is right here

http://www.rustbullet.com/faqs.asp?id=1

 
OK!!! done for the day, went ahead and stripped all the EPT coating that was on the floor pan, remover the filler I used to smooth out the welds. I proceeded to clean the entire floor with a wire wheel on my grinder then scuffed the floor with 220 sand paper and applied my first coat of chassis saver( I hope this does what is claims to do). The only issue I'm having is either to use duraglass on the welds to try to make the floor smooth or just leave it alone ( I'm intending to use some type of truck bed liner coating Monstaliner is from the same company that make the chassis saver). Well here are my pics you can see how the rear passenger floor pan section turned out.finished floor 2.JPGfinished floor 1.JPGfinished floor 5.JPGfinished floor 4.JPG

 
Looks great! Should last many years!

 
Great job! What are your restomod plans? I'm going in that direction with mine!

 
My current plans are to install a 408 stroker kit using my 351C4v heads topped with a Parker Funnel Web intake hope to get a strong 500hp on it. I'm going to have install a cowl hood to clear the intake and carb.( would like to retain the ram air system but will have to see as I go). I wan t to install a 5 spd. tranny. I am rewiring the car with a newer up to date system so I will upgrade my gauges. Looking to install 2011 front seats. Front suspension is a global west set up on the back I have grab attack spring set but would like to install a 4 link on it( no luck finding a bolt on unit) most likely will have the original configuration but install a watts link to help in handling. Brakes don't know maybe cobra brakes. Now for wheels Iam having a dillema, how much to spend and what style would look good on this style Mustang. 18 out back 17 up front ??My choices are:

[attachment=2636][attachment=2637][attachment=2638][attachment=2639][attachment=2640]

 
My current plans are to install a 408 stroker kit using my 351C4v heads topped with a Parker Funnel Web intake hope to get a strong 500hp on it. I'm going to have install a cowl hood to clear the intake and carb.( would like to retain the ram air system but will have to see as I go). I wan t to install a 5 spd. tranny. I am rewiring the car with a newer up to date system so I will upgrade my gauges. Looking to install 2011 front seats. Front suspension is a global west set up on the back I have grab attack spring set but would like to install a 4 link on it( no luck finding a bolt on unit) most likely will have the original configuration but install a watts link to help in handling. Brakes don't know maybe cobra brakes. Now for wheels Iam having a dillema, how much to spend and what style would look good on this style Mustang. 18 out back 17 up front ??My choices are:

Venom_lrg.jpgSpark.jpgNova-500.jpgLegendSS_20C-500.jpgbillet specialties.jpg:huh:

 
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