Pre-Heat System

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Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
119
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Location
Choctaw, Oklahoma
My Car
1973 Mach 1
351c 2v
Edelbrock 4bbl, Performer Intake
Ram-Air
Pertronix Electronic Ignition
Alrighty. Im trying to piece together where to get parts for my pre-heat system. I have found plenty of sources for the pre-heat tube (hot air tube from the exhaust manifold to snorkel).

Having issues finding the correct name for the thermal vacuum switch that activates the vacuum motor on the snorkel.

The actual part name would be a great help and even better would be a link to a good source for it. Thanks for the replies.

-Kyle

 
No, for awhile I thought that was the part they used. This is a bi-metallic switch that goes inside the air cleaner. It has one side from vacuum and the other to the vacuum motor on the snorkel switching the air from outside to the hot air tube the connects to the exhaust manifold.

 
Kyle, pm Mike Goodnight

Pretty sure he found them - not sure where though

Don

 
Kyle, My Ford manuals just refer to it as a "bi-metal switch". It is temperature activated at 80-100 degrees Fahrenheit (hot water check). It just barely moves when activated. If it is still available new or reproduced I never found it. You will need the special push clip to attach it as well (hard to get off without breaking). Do at OMS may be able to help. Chuck

Don chimed in while I was slowly typing. If Mike has a source please post it. Sorry I couldn't help. Chuck

 
Thanks Chuck for your reply. I have realized that the name for this item is different in every book and diagram I have found.

To be realistic, is this part necessary? I mean, with proper choke settings my car runs ok even on cold mornings. I feel like this could be an improvement to the warm-up time on < 40 degree mornings. But if its going to be a royal pain to locate, then Im not really that determined.

 
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Kyle, I have no doubt it helps at cold start up but, it is not a necessity. Just make sure the vacuum line feeding it is capped/plugged. Chuck

 
Thanks again Chuck.

Looking back over my old posts Don I found that the source goodnigh had located was the Ebay posts I found quite awhile ago. Never sat well with the price they wanted for something that is quite small. I will continue my search.


Imagine that, starting where I had left off before I managed to find the name and a part number!

Air Intake Temperature Sensor

D0ZZ-9E607-B


$45 On ebay for an original part with the clip. Looks like duralast used to make it but I couldn't find a source.

 
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Thanks again Chuck.

Looking back over my old posts Don I found that the source goodnigh had located was the Ebay posts I found quite awhile ago. Never sat well with the price they wanted for something that is quite small. I will continue my search.


Imagine that, starting where I had left off before I managed to find the name and a part number!

Air Intake Temperature Sensor

D0ZZ-9E607-B


$45 On ebay for an original part with the clip. Looks like duralast used to make it but I couldn't find a source.
Found the one I bought on eBay.

Says '1 available/ 1 sold' that would be me.

Expensive but I had been looking for one for

four years.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1970-1971-1973-Ford-Mustang-Air-Cleaner-Temperature-Control-Sensor-/300437139371?hash=item45f372efab&item=300437139371&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

Funny thing, the valve motor in the snorkel is easy to find.

Now I have a complete air cleaner system although it is not

installed in the car :huh:

mike

 
I think they used a similar valve in the later mustang II's and early fox platform cars. It might not be exact, but it is likely functionally the same. I think I even have 1 which I would happily send you if it will help. I'll look for it this weekend

 
Just located and bought one, new in the box on ebay for $22.

Not required but I want it to as close as OEM as possible.

 
as long as the switch opens after 15 minutes your fine.

it takes a while for the heat to build up under the air cleaner to open the switch and switch from warm to cool air intake on the snorkel.

I was convinced mine was not working at first because i would go for short drives come back and the snorkel would still be in the warm position.

I found out it takes longer for the bimetal switch to reach temperature. so even when the engine reaches temperature that switch may not open right away. also a new switch sometimes needs to break itself in a couple of times before it starts working.

i had one switch i got from a donor that i thought was broken, turned out some rust got in and jammed the bi metal from curling up, i soaked it in a rust De-solver and got it working again.

 
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