Interior dashboard removal step by step....

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baz70

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
213
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4
Location
London, UK
My Car
1972 Mach 1, White
Hi all

Happy new year to you all !

I'm new to the forum so would like to say how great this website is, and how I wish I'd stumbled upon it many months earlier...

I am planning to disassemble the interior dashboard on my 72 Mach 1 this weekend, and replace a few parts (dash speaker, centre console, glove box compartment, dash cluster etc....) - does anyone have an easy idiot's guide step by step instruction for which screws to undo first, so I can remove and reassemble everything in a logical and methodical way. Also I would like to get the dash cover off so I can easily get behind the dash panels....

thanks

Baz

 
Hi all

Happy new year to you all !

I'm new to the forum so would like to say how great this website is, and how I wish I'd stumbled upon it many months earlier...

I am planning to disassemble the interior dashboard on my 72 Mach 1 this weekend, and replace a few parts (dash speaker, centre console, glove box compartment, dash cluster etc....) - does anyone have an easy idiot's guide step by step instruction for which screws to undo first, so I can remove and reassemble everything in a logical and methodical way. Also I would like to get the dash cover off so I can easily get behind the dash panels....

thanks

Baz
Would love to know as well :)

 
I did the dash on my 73 a few years back. It took a while to find all the bolts holding it, but in the end it was a more intimidating project than it was a difficult project. I am going to have to do it again on my '72 so I will have to figure it out again.

Take your time, have plenty of time, have your digi-camera, maybe a note pad. One other thing that may be useful--you can purchase numbered tape strips. So you take of wire "1", put the "1" tape on it and the other "1" tape section on where it goes. It comes in several colors. The cheaper alternative is masking tape and a Sharpie. I conned my wife into marking strips of masking tape 1, 2, 3, etc. as I taped it on in the right places. That helped get the dash back in my '69 about 7 years after I took it out.

 
to replace the dash speaker, you just need to pull off the top of the dash board.

There are 6 screws on the 71-72 cars.

look underneath the dash pad and you will see 3 screws on the drivers side, 3 screws on the passenger side above the glove box, and 2 screws are in the center panel above the map light or A/C vents or storage box if equipped.

if you have a deluxe interior:

from the drivers side remove the outer screw and the inner screw, leave the center screw in place.

from the passenger side remove the outer screw and inner screw, leave the center screw in place.

remove the 2 center screws from the center console.

the dash pad will now be free, push up on the dash pad to make sure the front is free from the dash frame.

now with some effort pull the dash top with pad towards the rear of the car.

there are 3 clips that hold the dash top under the windshield. they will release and the top of the dash can be removed.

if you have a standard interior remove all 3 screws on both sides and be careful about the trim piece under the dash pad on the glove box side take care to remove it and not break it.

the dash top will release the same way.

73 dash tops have extra screws under the windshield that must be removed to allow the dash top to be removed.

removing the dash top will allow access to the AM radio speaker.

FM/AM radio speakers are located in the doors not the dash.

-------------------------

The glove box insert can be installed with out removing the dash pad, there are 5 button head screws just inside the glove box door on a plastic trim piece this trim piece is attached to the glove box insert, remove the screws then pop out the plastic trim with your hands and the cardboard glove box insert will come out with it, its attached to the plastic trim with large staples. the insert for A/C is smaller compared to the Heater only car but the replacement is the same.

------------------------

not sure which center console you want to replace, the floor console is held on by screws through the carpet and 2 electrical plug that must be disconnected.

-------------------------

if you want to replace the center console in the dash board:

you need to loosen the dash top as described above but you don't need to remove it you can work around it.

to remove the center panel of the dashboard:

set parking brake.

if you have a lower console it will make things easier to remove it. see above

if automatic push the gear select to 1 to move it out of the way.

if manual move shifter as far rear as possible.

first remove the radio panel:

pop off the 2 chrome radio buttons, and remove them and the chrome discs behind them. pop them off bare handed don't use any pry bars. loosen the 2 nuts where the radio controls were use a deep socket hex. there are Star washers behind the nuts. don't lose them. with the front of the radio now loose.

there are 4 countersunk screws on the metal frame around the radio use a short phillips screw driver and remove them 2 above the radio, and 2 above the climate controls.

the metal plate that houses the radio and lower climate controls can now be removed.

optional remove radio: reach behind radio from passenger side, you will feel the antenna connector on the right side, pull it towards the engine bay to release it. reach on the left hand side of the radio and disconnect the rubber power plug.

the plug has no clips you just pull it apart. there will also be a connector for the speaker or speakers. the AM radio is a flat 2 prong plug the Fm/AM is a square plug with 4 connectors.

pull radio forward with some force there is a large metal clip that holds the back of the radio to the dash board frame.

the radio can now be removed.

now things will be different if you have just a heater equipped car verse a A/C car.

remove the large plug on the left side that runs the blower fan there will be 2 more electrical connectors 1 for lights the other for the A/C compressor if equipped, the A/C connector is a red 2 prong connector.

IF A/C equipped

with the electrical disconnected now reach around to the back of the climate controls you will feel a large rubber connector with vacuum lines coming out of it, this is the vacuum octopus it is a push in connection carefully work it off the back of the climate controls there are 2 clips that are part of the octopus that can be a pain to release but if you work it carefully back and forth it will pop out and then you can pull it back off the manifold and release it.

next release the screw under the glove box on the heater or A/C box where the cable with wire come out this will allow you to release it freeing the center console.

carefully look behind the free panel and if equipped with center gauges there will be one large connector to release.

if you have a map light unscrew the 2 counter sunk screws and disconnect the plug. remove the map light as a separate part.

remove the center panel with with the climate controls still attached.

there will be 4 hex screws that hold the climate controls to the plastic center dash panel. remove them and carefully pull the climate controls out from the front.

transfer all hardware and clips from the original center panel to the new panel then reverse dissasembly.

the first time you do it allow for a full weekend and take it slow, it takes me about 4 hours to remove and install one.


well i don't have many photos but this is what you can expect:

76.jpg


75.jpg


74.jpg


73.jpg


59.jpg


22965690260_large.jpg


33.jpg


52.jpg


you don't need to remove the steering wheel unless you want to work on the instrument cluster on the driver's side.


if you have a deluxe interior you do not need to remove the panel on the passenger side around the glove box to access anything, unless you just want to replace the surround with a new part.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
thanks 72HCode, this is a great start and I'll start working through the instructions per your guide.... As my car is not garaged, I will take it in small steps so I can still drive the car at the end of each day.... I'll start with removing the dash pad and installing the replacement dash speaker, as the original is shot.....

 
to replace the dash speaker, you just need to pull off the top of the dash board.

There are 6 screws on the 71-72 cars.

look underneath the dash pad and you will see 3 screws on the drivers side, 3 screws on the passenger side above the glove box, and 2 screws are in the center panel above the map light or A/C vents or storage box if equipped.

if you have a deluxe interior:

from the drivers side remove the outer screw and the inner screw, leave the center screw in place.

from the passenger side remove the outer screw and inner screw, leave the center screw in place.

remove the 2 center screws from the center console.

the dash pad will now be free, push up on the dash pad to make sure the front is free from the dash frame.

now with some effort pull the dash top with pad towards the rear of the car.

there are 3 clips that hold the dash top under the windshield. they will release and the top of the dash can be removed.

if you have a standard interior remove all 3 screws on both sides and be careful about the trim piece under the dash pad on the glove box side take care to remove it and not break it.

the dash top will release the same way.

73 dash tops have extra screws under the windshield that must be removed to allow the dash top to be removed.

removing the dash top will allow access to the AM radio speaker.

FM/AM radio speakers are located in the doors not the dash.

-------------------------

The glove box insert can be installed with out removing the dash pad, there are 5 button head screws just inside the glove box door on a plastic trim piece this trim piece is attached to the glove box insert, remove the screws then pop out the plastic trim with your hands and the cardboard glove box insert will come out with it, its attached to the plastic trim with large staples. the insert for A/C is smaller compared to the Heater only car but the replacement is the same.

------------------------

not sure which center console you want to replace, the floor console is held on by screws through the carpet and 2 electrical plug that must be disconnected.

-------------------------

if you want to replace the center console in the dash board:

you need to loosen the dash top as described above but you don't need to remove it you can work around it.

to remove the center panel of the dashboard:

set parking brake.

if you have a lower console it will make things easier to remove it. see above

if automatic push the gear select to 1 to move it out of the way.

if manual move shifter as far rear as possible.

first remove the radio panel:

pop off the 2 chrome radio buttons, and remove them and the chrome discs behind them. pop them off bare handed don't use any pry bars. loosen the 2 nuts where the radio controls were use a deep socket hex. there are Star washers behind the nuts. don't lose them. with the front of the radio now loose.

there are 4 countersunk screws on the metal frame around the radio use a short phillips screw driver and remove them 2 above the radio, and 2 above the climate controls.

the metal plate that houses the radio and lower climate controls can now be removed.

optional remove radio: reach behind radio from passenger side, you will feel the antenna connector on the right side, pull it towards the engine bay to release it. reach on the left hand side of the radio and disconnect the rubber power plug.

the plug has no clips you just pull it apart. there will also be a connector for the speaker or speakers. the AM radio is a flat 2 prong plug the Fm/AM is a square plug with 4 connectors.

pull radio forward with some force there is a large metal clip that holds the back of the radio to the dash board frame.

the radio can now be removed.

now things will be different if you have just a heater equipped car verse a A/C car.

remove the large plug on the left side that runs the blower fan there will be 2 more electrical connectors 1 for lights the other for the A/C compressor if equipped, the A/C connector is a red 2 prong connector.

IF A/C equipped

with the electrical disconnected now reach around to the back of the climate controls you will feel a large rubber connector with vacuum lines coming out of it, this is the vacuum octopus it is a push in connection carefully work it off the back of the climate controls there are 2 clips that are part of the octopus that can be a pain to release but if you work it carefully back and forth it will pop out and then you can pull it back off the manifold and release it.

next release the screw under the glove box on the heater or A/C box where the cable with wire come out this will allow you to release it freeing the center console.

carefully look behind the free panel and if equipped with center gauges there will be one large connector to release.

if you have a map light unscrew the 2 counter sunk screws and disconnect the plug. remove the map light as a separate part.

remove the center panel with with the climate controls still attached.

there will be 4 hex screws that hold the climate controls to the plastic center dash panel. remove them and carefully pull the climate controls out from the front.

transfer all hardware and clips from the original center panel to the new panel then reverse dissasembly.

the first time you do it allow for a full weekend and take it slow, it takes me about 4 hours to remove and install one.


well i don't have many photos but this is what you can expect:

76.jpg


75.jpg


74.jpg


73.jpg


59.jpg


22965690260_large.jpg


33.jpg


52.jpg


you don't need to remove the steering wheel unless you want to work on the instrument cluster on the driver's side.


if you have a deluxe interior you do not need to remove the panel on the passenger side around the glove box to access anything, unless you just want to replace the surround with a new part.
Question about removing the plastic dash facia above glove box:

How does it come off?

I started out by breaking the center plastic bolt. Then I found and removed nuts; what a PITA! Now it's loose except for the right side with the vent. Is there another nut, clip or somthing else that holds it in place?

 
Welcome to the forums! As you can see, you have come to the right place!

 
yup the glove box surround has screws from the back of the A/C vent on the passenger side that go through the dash sheet metal its a huge pita to remove.

take a look at this picture of a reproduction glove box surround.

100_3112.jpg


you see the 4 blind nut mounts, now see around the A/C vent you have 6 screw holes. the 2 center ones hold the A/C vent to the plastic surround.

the 4 other screws go through the metal frame of the dash into the plastic, so you need to remove all 6 to gain access.

1) remove the passenger side plastic Vent tube, that is behind the dash, pull the vent part back to pop it out of the metal Z clips.

photo of the complete vent system behind the dash, the unit breaks down into 5 pieces so you can loosen the ends and remove them as separate parts

57.jpg


2) now you have room to work there are little hex head metal screws you must remove, remove the 2 center ones so you can remove the vent director,

then you have access to the other 4 screws.

once all 4 are out you can remove the plastic panel.

now you can leave the 2 center screws with the a/c vent director installed, however it makes getting to the 2 lower screws more of a PITA and plus with the vent open you may be able to get a small hand through the hole and help align the ratchet to get them out.

3) if your replacing it with the aftermarket reproduction piece get ready for some hurt.

Tips for installing the reproduction parts

1) first the blind nuts mounts are a smaller size then original so you will need to go to home depot or lowes and get a selection of blind nuts until you find a slightly smaller then ford original version

2) if you install ANY screws into the plastic and start to tighten it down the plastic will SNAP!!! and the studs will crack.

you need to prep the screws for installation using a soldering iron

3) place the reproduction part on a towel to prevent damage.

4) heat up a soldering iron

5) place the correct screws lightly into the proper screw stud

6) place the soldering iron on top of the screw head and heat it up until you just see a wiff of smoke coming off the plastic.

7) tighten the screw while it is hot. it will melt threads into the plastic.

8) as the screw cools, alternate loosing and tightening the screw until its cool. you can lightly lube the screw threads if you wish.

9) repeat until all 6 screws have been Hot seated into the plastic. this will prevent the plastic from stressing and cracking when you install it in the car.

10) now reinstall the new part hand tighten all the hex head screws try not to cross thread them and crack the plastic.

11) the blind nuts should be ok to install cold just carefully tighten them, push with your fingers from the front over the blind nut stud and carefully feel how much your tightening the plastic to the dash frame, work slow.

repeat the same procedure for the reproduction center dashboard replacement, the same care must be taken when installing the center gauge housing and A/C and map light the plastic can crack very easily and you must hot seat all the hardware.

So you will have some preparation with the reproduction dash parts before you install them.

Now the driver's side panel, actually comes with a new A/C vent installed for you. the original ford part will fit but most of the time the driver's side is falling apart so its a welcome replacement. the drivers side instrument panel is the easiest to install, since the Vent is already installed for you and there are no other studs really needed except for the lower steering column cover with uses 2 screws, your choice to either hot install the 2 screws or have it crack a little.

-------------

The reason these parts are such a pain to install is because at the factory the entire dash board was assembled outside of the car, the wiring and connectors were installed then the front of the dash as assembled as one piece, once the heater box or a/c unit was installed on the firewall then the dash was brought inside the car and attached to the cowl.

as a repair your trying to come in through the front of the dash rather then behind it so it makes things harder.

if you ever need to service the heater box, or A/C box (heater core) it will make your life easier to actually remove the entire dash board from the car. the heater box is very fragile and huge and trying to get everything to line up is pure hell. took me 4 days to install mine with the dash installed verse 1 day to take the dash out and replace the box without any hindrance.

 
thanks again for some insightful tips, no doubt gained from the bloodied hands of experience. I think I'll do the dash speaker and leave the full dash resto project till the summer, and I wll probably take out the whole dashboard first, assemble out of car and then re-insert and install in the car.....

 
Thanks for the great tips 72HCODE!

Since I am just refinishing the original pieces I won't have to prep the holes.
Hi f117rt, how have you refinished the originals, would be interested to know what you've done - If I had the time and resources, I'd have prefered to refinish original pieces (rechrome, paint etc...) than go out and buy inferior repro parts....

 
If it was like what I did the first time 5 years ago i used semi black paint and a chrome paint marker for the chrome stripe, lol.

The reproduction deluxe dash boards came out about 1 1/2 years ago and only became mainstream about 1 year ago, they started with the late 72/73 panels that had the seat belt warning lights, later on the 71 early 72 panels without the seat belt light came out.

The drivers panel and the passenger panel were first.

About 6 months later the glove box panel finally came out.

Then within the last 8 months the center panel with wood grain or camera case were released.

So the reproduction dash boards are pretty new, don at Ohio was the first to really have them.

Also the clock surround for the floor console also came out.

I would recommend getting them if you can afford it and want the original look.

About 5 years ago I looked into getting my dash rechromed , it's called vacuum chroming.

For a small Batch the cost was over 1000$ other systems for laying real chrome on plastic were more expensive. I checked with mr. G also he specialized in refurbishing oem chrome panels, he was also expensive and required a good core panel to exchange.

At the time my panels had holes in them and mr G refused to sell me replacements.

So I was forced to get soso panels from a junkyard that I stripped and repainted.

When the repros came out it was a god sent.

Basically there is no way to truly replicate chrome even alcad 2 chrome paint sprayed with a air brush does not Match the original coating, and it is less durable.

If you go for a custom dash color the worn originals are a perfect start point.

Spray the panels black and do a body color accent line where the chrome was and it can look awesome and save money


The reproduction panels I would not call them inferior, just not original.

The exterior is a perfect match, the mounts are just slightly different but you do not need to modify them for use just take extra care when getting them ready for install.

The fit and finish I found very good I did have to clean up the edge on the passenger side a little but nothing major, as far as durability they are just as good as original panels.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Spray the panels black and do a body color accent line where the chrome was and it can look awesome and save money.
I was just stressing over seeing how much the vacuum chroming process was and was having trouble deciding what to do. I saw a picture of an interior with no trim contrast whatsoever (they painted all of the panels just black) and it was hideous (IMHO... but some people like that look and that's fine).

Thanks 72HCODE for helping me make what could've been an expensive decision.

 
Thanks for the great tips 72HCODE!

Since I am just refinishing the original pieces I won't have to prep the holes.
Hi f117rt, how have you refinished the originals, would be interested to know what you've done - If I had the time and resources, I'd have prefered to refinish original pieces (rechrome, paint etc...) than go out and buy inferior repro parts....
Check out my thread at:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-dash-paint?page=2

Scott Drake makes an exact match Black metalic laquer, L-4464, for our dashes and you can see in the picture it came out fine. I used the Aluminum tape also shown in the pictures. No, it's not chrome but it's the closest your going to get to it. This is the way it will stay for whaile while I use my sources for other more inportant things like a Paint Job!

Good luck!

 
This was a TREMENDOUS help. I am restoring the interior on my 73 Vert and was looking for something this in-depth. I will take lots of pics and try to keep notes to help others as well.

 
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