The “correct” fan shroud

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So I’ve stumped you guys? I’m leaving town soon and I’m worried I’ll get a great question with no way, again, to respond. What other info do I need to find the right shroud or find out if my 19” fan dream is just a nightmare in the making?
Well, if you are intent on using that 19" diam. fan, for sure the 351 shroud won't work as it is as the opening diameter is right on 19". Now as you are creating a what is basically a 302 with a huge fan. you probably will need to
"create" a fan shroud to suit. Personally with my background in automotive prototyping of air induction components, I would just make my own, but using the stock shroud and inserting a new "ring", if you will, at the needed diameter. That would entail building up a fiberglass part and blending it in. I do realize that unless a person has that ability to work with f/g, easier said than done, but something you might want to think about.
 
What about an existing shroud and cutting and inserting like a stainless steel opening? Paint the whole thing in a mat black? Crazy?
After reading this thread I went to measure my fan. I do have a 19" fan with what I "believe" (see note below) is the stock shroud. The shroud has been modified by cutting the bottom of it. That's the fan that was in the car when I bought it. The shroud was cut but I had to further the cut after I installed my new radiator and TKO600 which changed the drivetrain angle and shroud location. That said, it should work. How much to cut will depend also in your drivetrain angle since the radiator is horizontal while the fan has a tilt to it.

Edit PS: i said that I think the shroud is stock, but I must say that I don't know for sure. My car came with a lot of weird stuff adapted to it.
 
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And they made the dam cars in San Jose . . .
Actually not. 71-73 were made in Dearborn and Metuchen only. Earlier Mustangs were made in San Jose as well as Dearborn and I assume Metuchen.
My car has a San Jose DSO number, but made in Dearborn.
As for Tony's post, indeed good info on engine angle and height. You may have to build accordingly after the motor is situated. i.e. don't put the cart before the horse.
 
After reading this thread I went to measure my fan. I do have a 19" fan with what I "believe" (see note below) is the stock shroud. The shroud has been modified by cutting the bottom of it. That's the fan that was in the car when I bought it. The shroud was cut but I had to further the cut after I installed my new radiator and TKO600 which changed the drivetrain angle and shroud location. That said, it should work. How much to cut will depend also in your drivetrain angle since the radiator is horizontal while the fan has a tilt to it.

Edit PS: i said that I think the shroud is stock, but I must say that I don't know for sure. My car came with a lot of weird stuff adapted to it.
Replying to myself here. After i wrote my post i decided to investigate. My shroud is marked as d3ze-8146-ab so it is from a 1973.
 
Took a couple quick measurements off a D3ZE shroud

Width - 27"
fan opening diameter- 20"
Opening is offset 1/2" to the passenger side 4" on left, 3" on right.

20" is really tight for a 19" fan. The other problem is if your drawing is oriented properly, the center of the water pump is much lower than the 71-73 setup. I measured a 302 and it's 7" crank center to water pump center.

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Ok, long post but today, life is good and the fan shroud mystery is solved, thanks in part to Hemikiller and a few crucial ideas from others. Turns out, the Daniel Carpenter stock 351 shroud does ultimately work with my 19” fan, but not out of the box on the stock setup. First, stock installed on two row radiator, it rubs at the bottom and drivers side. Second, it doesn’t fit deep enough into the opening, at least with the stock stuff I took off of the TBird. So, since I wasn’t committed to the stock location, I was able to make new lower, adjustable mounts, that also pickup the new lower pickups bars of the Alum radiator I bought. Moving it to the drivers side about 1.25” and lowering it about .75”, and moving it towards the engine about .4” made it fit perfect. It’s biased still towards the drivers side so it has significantly more clearance on the drivers side to account for engine twist ( I loosed the passenger side mount and simulated the engine torque with excellent clearance still intact). Thanks again for answering any bon–headed questions I had. As the adage goes, you can do anything with enough money and time.
 
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