Recent content by kblackav8or

I have 10:1 and I like it.

I went through Lee Power Steering about 15 years ago (they are still around) and got what I think is a fantastic upgrade. I want faster ratio and more feel and feedback and have been happy. A bit less boost as well. I ran it on a later 5.0 style pump which readily adapts to the older bracket...

They have a new website.   https://leepowersteering.com/

Just found these.. Look like they might be the ticket. http://www.fabquest.com/weld-on-adjustable-ford-engine-mounts.html

I would like to get my 351 as low and far back as possible. I am going to be running a dry sump pan meaning it is flat on the bottom and only sticks down a couple inches. Really the limitation is the scattershield diamter to ground clearance. What factory frame perch and motor mount combo...

Gillig's are pretty close to Kenworth. I believe they were owned by Paccar.

Here is a good site on 385 series engines. http://www.460ford.com/forum/

I am looking to see if anyone makes motor mounts that would easily allow me to lower and or shift my engine slightly to the rear. My replacement engine has a dry sump oil system and with the space in there, any Cleveland could always go back a couple inches easily. For my purposes, the further...

A couple things. When you start going into in dept handling adjustments, the traditional steering box steering system has an advantage over a steering rack - ability to adjust the ackermann. The basic problem with Ford power steering through the 70's is there is a distinct lack of feel and...

I would ask Lee. 14:1 is pretty common for street stuff. I wanted mine a little faster so I chose 12:1.

Round tubing is more resistant to torsional twisting then box. Think of your driveshaft. You could do it the other way if you chose to. It is the floor you are talking about. If later on you need to replace the floor there is that much more to monkey with. There are plenty of people making...

Well there is the Corner Carvers forum. It isn't like other forums. You want to search and read a lot before you post anything on there and then lurk for a while. The folks in there are very smart. All the questions have already been answered so search and find an old thread and read through...

I would still go with the Watts link. Panards cause your suspension to travel upward in an arc. There is all sorts of neat stuff out there if you want to spend the money. I did my research, read up on things and worked with friends and fabricated mine from parts from places like Stock Car...

Addco makes bars for our cars. They aren't that expensive. Remember, Rear affects front, front affects rear with many suspension changes. If you want to stay mostly stock out back, a Fays2 Watts link kit, fresh bushings (I am leery of poly for spring bushings) maybe higher rate springs...

I think TCP stuff is way overpriced. Note that most anything that fits a 69/70 will also fit our 71-73's underneath. You can also have some made by most any halfway competent welder. The goal is to fabricate a connector that will connect and stiffen the chassis between front and rear chassis...