Recent content by kiko619

That's good the inhibitors in your coolant are going to be your BFF. Only thing you have to worry about is what you said, the cost lol. FWIW please use the proper radiator hose clamps, e.g. TKO or spring loaded clamps never use the worm gear or even those pretty anodized hose fittings... they...

Hi there, hope this helps you out. >> Related thread

mine had the same issue, grab some pliers and pull it out, its pressed in. be careful not to drop flakes and pieces of rusted metals inside when pulling it out. mine was so bad it was coming off in pieces and took forever. Once Removed, got some sandpaper and cleaned it up. clean up the grove...

Hey there! sorry to hear the waste of money you have going on. For sound deadener your better off making your own sheets. ThermoTec, KillMat, ResoNix, 3M sound deadner, or DynaMat. FYI Dynamat is hella expensive and doesn't provide heat reduction. You'll have to stack a layer something. check...

I threw mine away and just used tubing conduit to protect the wiring lol. Does it really have a functional purpose? :)

Post should be pinned; anyone who is attempting to do this whole thing at home. I wish this also placed an emphasis on the O-ring seal for the shift-linkage or "manual lever transmission shift seal" PN#759003 this is a square profile O-ring just replace it.

I have to ask... is there a reason you didn't just rip out the cowl hat that is rotting away? You went through the trouble of opening up that cancer spot, but didn't really do much. I'm worried that future you is going to run into leaks again since the holes/pitting is so close to the hat butt...

where did you snag a colored wiring diagram?

1. The motor has started before with the new starter without any "initial" problems. 2. Ruling out hydro-lock: turned the engine with a breaker bar, rotates relatively smooth, I say relative because its a big mechanical machine takes a bit of force to rotate. 1/4 turns with/without serpentine...

Hi family! I have a question and requesting guidance from the experienced family to see if this happened to anyone else here. Got a mini Hi-Torque starter from Jegs Prostarter PN#: 555-10005 for the 351C. Well I'm having the following issues and I went down a series of process of elimination...

I did exactly that, I have my dizzy line connected to the ported line next to the meter block from the carb. however the amount of vacuum from the manifold (RPM AIR GAP) showed the same readings from the port underneath the carb (750CFM quickfuel) i guess its a matter of preference. also did...

for the PCV is it critical to have it connected to the back of the carburetor or can it be a breather cap? As far as the dizzy, the option is available to connect dizzy>> 3way port> intake & carb. can the 3 way port be eliminated? 

Hi all! My question is directed towards how everyone else has their vacuum lines set up based on the modifications they've applied to the cars i.e. new intakes, EGR eliminated, vacuum canister eliminated, Newer distributors, the list goes on... I know of and have viewed the diagrams provided by...

thank you both for the help ill check it out and follow up when I get back in town.

I'd be lying if i told you there ever was one and if it came out during bolt removal. II didn't try a longer bolt. I mentioned previously that all the bolts matched the originals in legnth thickness and pitch. So much for upgrading the bolts to throw out the old ones. ill try the longer...