Recent content by kusanagi

Hi I was just looking at your build and noticed that you are using the same cylinder heads as me ( Speedmaster ) and I thought that I would share my experince with them so far ( I still have not started the engine yet ), first check for swarf, mine had a fair amount of swarf in the water...

Yep it starts with, I will just sort out that small gearbox problem and that small bit of rust around the rear lights :P .

Yep did all the welding myself ( I have got better over the years ). Where to start mmm, that's a difficult one, if I was looking to do a total restoration I would do what I did with this one, and tear it down to a bare shell ( filler hides horrors ) and that would give you good idea what you...

I will be using a MegaSquirt 3x ECU running full sequential ignition and injection.

Well time for a very late update. Picking up where I left off, having got the engine more or less together I thought it was time to start making some of the bits for the EFI conversion.  I started with sorting out the crank trigger wheel, this was made using a generic 36-1 missing tooth wheel...

I had a similar misalignment with my headers on these heads. To fix this I made a template up using the port on the head as a guide ( a piece of cardboard ) then I modified the flange area on my old headers to match, as they were an old set of Blackjack 2v headers they did not require much work...

The cam I chose in the end was a Lunati 411A1 cam ( solid lifter ), this cam opens its exhaust valve at 77BBDC ( 60 @ .050 ) against the Lunati 62503 cam 72BBDC ( 50.5 @ .050 ), that means that 411A1 cam snaps the valve open earlier but also opens it a lot earlier at @ .050 lift aiding flow the...

This thread is of interest to myself as I have got the same heads and inlet, one thing I do remember reading when I was trying to decide on a cam was that if the exhaust valve was not opened early enough ( around 80 to 84 BBDC ) it can cause the  top end torque to drop off like a brick  at...

Well I phoned one of the firms in question ( this place had been recommend by a member of an owners club I belong to ) and had a very good talk with the person who I spoke to, he gave me a price on some 31 spline shafts ( £350 + VAT ), bearings ( £80 + VAT ), retainers ( £20 + VAT ) and studs (...

I have used Summit Racing and Jegs before ( for my engine build ) and I have been getting most of my comparison prices from them, with both of them it works out cheaper to buy the parts separately from them and build the diff myself than try and get the exact spec of complete third member...

I forgot to mention my tyre size which is at the moment 255/60 15 cooper's ( 27 inch tall ) and I my be changing it for a 275/60 15 BFG not long after the car goes back on the road. I did look at quick performance and had considered them but I know someone over here ( UK ) that got a quote on...

Hi, I need a spot of advice on my axle components. I have been stripping my 9 Inch axle down to get it ready for a change of ratio and new bearings and have come  across a couple of problems. The first problem up, is when I removed the third member and inspected it I found that it had a crack...

Well time for a small update, I have been slowly been getting the parts together so I can assemble the engine and I now have all the parts need to start assembly. First up a photo of the parts got so far to build the engine. P1010205a by karl stroud, on Flickr Now with the new cam bearings...

Got the same sizes on mine. P1010114a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010115a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010117a by karl stroud, on Flickr P1010120a by karl stroud, on Flickr

Hi, I had the same on both sides on my mach1. What I ended up doing was to remove the upper cowl area above the air vents by drilling out the welds with a spot weld drill and carefully cutting the upper cowl in a couple of area's so I did not have to remove the entire upper cowl. DSC00364a by...