1973 Grande Build

Steve McMahan · May 17, 2022

Ok, next issue/problem: I’m using the AOD out of the TBird and the TBird floor shifter (I like it better than the stock Mustang one

), so I’ve got to figure out how to connect the steering column/transmission key lock out rod to the AOD. Here is a picture of the rod end and the mechanism on the AOD:

The rod is not attached, I just rested it on top of the shifting lever to get the picture. That extra coupling at the bottom of the lever attaches to a shifting cable, so I can’t remove that. Once I get back to AZ, by Thursday, I’ll try and take a closer set of photos including mocking up the attached shift cable so it’s clearer what the issue is.

My two questions are, 1) Do I need it, 2) Is there something beside that rod I could replace it with?

Thank you, Steve

Steve McMahan · May 22, 2022

Any ideas on this question?

droptop73 · May 23, 2022

It's more of an anti theft device than a safety one. When I converted to a 5 speed it couldn't be used any longer. One bit of info though, find a way to hold the lever on the column up. If it falls you can't get the key out and need to reach down into a likely hot engine compartment and pull it up.

Steve McMahan · May 23, 2022

Ok,thanks for the info, I’ll secure it somehow.

Well, another milestone for me, I got the driver and passenger side suspension completed, still have to install the steering parts and brake parts, but am done with my spring compressor for a while.

My punch list is still very long. Next, putting the final touches on the ECU harness and the integrated engine compartment harness.

71ProjectJunk · May 24, 2022

Steve McMahan said:
Ok, next issue/problem: I’m using the AOD out of the TBird and the TBird floor shifter (I like it better than the stock Mustang one ), so I’ve got to figure out how to connect the steering column/transmission key lock out rod to the AOD. Here is a picture of the rod end and the mechanism on the AOD:
View attachment 63588
The rod is not attached, I just rested it on top of the shifting lever to get the picture. That extra coupling at the bottom of the lever attaches to a shifting cable, so I can’t remove that. Once I get back to AZ, by Thursday, I’ll try and take a closer set of photos including mocking up the attached shift cable so it’s clearer what the issue is.

My two questions are, 1) Do I need it, 2) Is there something beside that rod I could replace it with?

Thank you, Steve

I would imagine that with some cutting, bending, and welding you could modify the lock out rod to work with the AOD, but being that it is just an ancient anti-theft device, and not really needed, why go through all that trouble. I would just leave it off and forget about it. As Droptop73 said, just make sure hold that lever up so you can remove your key. I think that you can completely disable the thing from inside the steering column.

Steve McMahan · Jun 8, 2022

Well, another month, more progress. I remember a principle I learned in estimating, called the Pareto principle, the 80/20 rule. Sometimes it seems like 80 percent of the tasks to rebuild this car has taken the 20 percent of time, and that last 20 percent will take the 80 percent of time to come. Anyway, progress is slow; it was 112 today in Fort Mohave in my garage with no cooling, other than a fan. Maybe the principle is I accomplish only 20 percent with my 80 percent of effort?

Got the new radiator, power steering cooler (from a Porsche), and trans coolers mounted, with home-made mounts.

It was tricky getting the radiator mounted, while trying to use the stock 87 TBird fan clutch. But after a week of measuring, fitting, refitting, i was able to make new lower mounts to catch the bottom stems from the radiator at the height where the installed shroud clears. Only “tight” space is top and bottom, but I’ve got 1/2” min at both, so I feel ok. I’ll see how I feel when it runs. And, in case someone wonders, it’s got more clearance in the torque direction; I thought since I had the option, to bias it in that way.

The two coolers are more fun than necessary. When I scored that small power steering cooler, new, from a water cooled 944, I thought I had to find a way to include it. I’m sure others here could do a much better job of mounting, and maybe in phase 3 (someday), I’ll make it look more professional. But they’re secure.

Next, I’ve got to take my new, stock power steering hose to a hydraulic shop and get the one end modified to fit to the stock 73 box. And, my exhaust kit arrives on Friday so I can start to build the pipe from the shorty headers to the muffler. That will be a first for me, so wish me luck. This is taking me much longer than I thought, but I have to say, I’m enjoying the hell out of it. Thanks to those who have helped me along the way. Steve

Steve McMahan · Jul 22, 2022

Well, in the last 6 weeks, not much progress, as my car is in an AZ garage with no AC. So, it’s very early morning to noon work only. Here’s what I’ve got done since the last post:

I got a custom power steering hose built at a local shop; it looks great and is made in excess of the requirements.

It’s hard to see in the photo, but it’s the one with the spiral protector on it. I’m glad to be done with that.

Second, I was able to get the rear drums turned, rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders, and installed new hardware, except one part I’m waiting on, and that will be done. Also, I got the new U-Joint on the driveshaft and got it installed.

Third, I’m started on the 2.5” exhaust system. I’ve got the passenger side muffler to exhaust pipe to rear valance in and needing only minor alignment tweaking. One thing I’ve got to do, the car is too low to work under, so when I get back in about 3 weeks, I’m going to raise it up 12” more. My overall diameter has increased over the years, requiring more room.

Keeping the muffler about 1” from the floor allows it to be fitted between the floor and the subframe connectors; I’m hoping that affords more protection.

I’m hoping to get the rest of the exhaust system in; hard part is still in front of me, hand-building the dual exhaust from the shorty headers to the mufflers. Too hot in AZ so will probably skip August and 1/2 of September before I get back to it. Thanks for looking, Steve

Steve McMahan · Aug 26, 2022

Well another month has passed, not much progress, but some (It sure seems like more since I completed so many step in my Excel plan, but it doesn’t look much different). I was able to wrap up the brakes. All I need to do is attach the front brake hoses, as soon as I get the wheels on the ground, and bleed the brakes. Got me a power bleeder and am excited to use it for the first time.

I also wrapped up the ECU harness, ECU wiring and ECU attachment. I’m getting close on testing the wiring and seeing if those months of meticulous work on building it results in a working harness.

While no where complete, I did get the mufflers to rear exit pipes installed, at least mocked up; I suspect I’ll have to make adjustments as soon as the shorty to muffler pipes are built. I started on the passenger side, since it looked less complicated.

I have a ton of respect for those of you who are true craftsmen. I know i have to crawl before I walk, but exhaust work is hard. When I get the r/h pipe done in Oct, I’ll post it for hopefully, gentle ribbing. I am learning to weld better, so that’s a plus. Thanks again for looking. Steve

Steve McMahan · Oct 13, 2022

Well, 6 weeks later, I’ve finally got the exhaust system built. It took me about 4 full days to build both of the pipes from the shorty headers to the mufflers. The passenger side was easier with no steering or transmission items in the way. The drivers side was much more difficult. Only 3 pieces of 2.5” pipe from the fitting on the passenger side, but 6 pieces for the drivers side. I did notice my welding skills go from embarrassing to adequate over the build period. And I found using a chop saw was superior to a cut off wheel for getting the cuts straight (the zip tie around the pipe didn’t work as well for me). Here is my proof of life: I noticed as I posted them, I forgot to tighten the passenger pipe clamp, so there’s that.

Passenger-side, shorty to bend.

Passenger-side bend to straight to muffler

Drivers-side shorty to turn

Drivers-side turn to straight to muffler

Going for that flame-thrower look

Well, I was also able to install both Ox Sensors; passenger side is a tight fit, but it’s in. All connected to harness. I’m one step closer to the initial startup/fire, one or the other. Thanks again for the help along the way. Steve

Steve McMahan · Oct 16, 2022

Well, tomorrow is an important day. First time I try to start it since I started the project on June 1st 2021. So, 16 months later, I‘ve pulled the old drivetrain and sold it to a concourse restorer, bought a 87 TBird 5l and transplanted the complete drivetrain, less the rear axle, into the 73, built an integrated and removable ECU harness that connects to the stock wiring system, solve so many problems with folks here who get nothing for their help except personal satisfaction, and am at the point where it will either start or bust into flames. I have cranked it over and the key start is working, I have a strong spark and I show full battery voltage to the in tank fuel pump.

Tomorrow my long time friend and I are going to fuel it, test the pump circuit for leaks, once more over for any other leaks, and then, see if it starts. Here is the complete engine, minus the spark plugs. I know not everyone will approve the engine colors, but I like it. Wish me luck. Steve

vintageman · Oct 16, 2022

Good luck Steve, after all the work you have put in, I have a good feeling it will start right up.

Tom

tpj71mach · Oct 16, 2022

Good luck, I hope it starts and runs well right away.

Sheriff41 · Oct 16, 2022

Congrats! Hope it goes well. Just in case, make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy and can quickly kill the power to the electric fuel pump.

timachone · Oct 17, 2022

Good luck, Steve. Hope, all goes well and you will have a well running engine then! Keep us posted!

CarCrazy73 · Oct 17, 2022

Beat of luck, sounds like an awesome project.

Steve McMahan · Oct 17, 2022

Well, today was a fun day, filled with emotions like fear, worry, joy, and finally, happiness.

My best friend arrived early and I was ready to get it done. We fueled the tank, for the first time, turned the key: nothing. No crank, no nothing. Turns out, there is something loose under the dash, and when you grab the main harness and move it slightly, you hear clicking noise, and the yellow power wire to the ignition switch gets hot. Somewhere, I don’t know yet, something is loose, and I dont know where, but I was able to make it work for the purpose of the first start: fear.

So, now it cranked, but wouldn’t start. Did all of the do we have spark, etc and all checked out, so I attached the fuel pressure tester; no fuel pressure: worry.

So, I got the Power Probe tester out and verified I had no power to the pump, no power to the fuel pump relay, and when I traced it back to the firewall, I found the problem; I hadn't connected the final connector together, they were both laying there laughing at me. When I connected them, turned the key to run, the pump ran: joy.

It took a bit of cranking, starter fluid support, but I got it running. Not running well, but running. I definitely have an issue with low fuel pressure. This might be my own fault. If it is, I know how to fix it. It sounded great, an exhaust leak on the drivers side, a slight leak on the injector on cyl 1, slight rear main leak, top trans cooler fitting leaking, etc. But, 17 in of vacuum, idled good, had the EEC-IV tester on it and no codes, at least none yet: happiness.

And, I was able to mock-up the standard hood. Now, I’m missing some of those rubber segments that run the length of the hood on both side and my front bumpers need to be replaced, but with all that, there was significant hood clearance for the GT-40 intake. Pics attached with the amount of clearance at the high points.

Again, thank you for the encouragement you guys have offered. I am continually amazed at your craftsmanship in building these cars. I hope to continue to learn for you. Steve

timachone · Oct 18, 2022

Nice to hear you were successful in the end, thanks for keeping us up to dated! You will kill the gremlins though, one at a time.

tpj71mach · Oct 20, 2022

Steve McMahan said:
Well, today was a fun day, filled with emotions like fear, worry, joy, and finally, happiness.

My best friend arrived early and I was ready to get it done. We fueled the tank, for the first time, turned the key: nothing. No crank, no nothing. Turns out, there is something loose under the dash, and when you grab the main harness and move it slightly, you hear clicking noise, and the yellow power wire to the ignition switch gets hot. Somewhere, I don’t know yet, something is loose, and I dont know where, but I was able to make it work for the purpose of the first start: fear.

So, now it cranked, but wouldn’t start. Did all of the do we have spark, etc and all checked out, so I attached the fuel pressure tester; no fuel pressure: worry.

So, I got the Power Probe tester out and verified I had no power to the pump, no power to the fuel pump relay, and when I traced it back to the firewall, I found the problem; I hadn't connected the final connector together, they were both laying there laughing at me. When I connected them, turned the key to run, the pump ran: joy.

It took a bit of cranking, starter fluid support, but I got it running. Not running well, but running. I definitely have an issue with low fuel pressure. This might be my own fault. If it is, I know how to fix it. It sounded great, an exhaust leak on the drivers side, a slight leak on the injector on cyl 1, slight rear main leak, top trans cooler fitting leaking, etc. But, 17 in of vacuum, idled good, had the EEC-IV tester on it and no codes, at least none yet: happiness.

And, I was able to mock-up the standard hood. Now, I’m missing some of those rubber segments that run the length of the hood on both side and my front bumpers need to be replaced, but with all that, there was significant hood clearance for the GT-40 intake. Pics attached with the amount of clearance at the high points.

View attachment 68593 View attachment 68594 View attachment 68595 View attachment 68596 View attachment 68608
Again, thank you for the encouragement you guys have offered. I am continually amazed at your craftsmanship in building these cars. I hope to continue to learn for you. Steve

Great to hear that it started and is running with only a few loose ends to resolve, congrats!

Steve McMahan · Oct 21, 2022

Got most of the loose ends remedied. Was able to get the hood on; it’s harder when it’s just you. Still have a brake fluid leak at the drivers side; has new hose and both cooper washers, but still leaking at the junction. Will inspect surfaces and likely replace both washers. It’s always something.

PoFoMoCo · Nov 1, 2022

Steve ~ Wow what an incredible journey, thank you for sending the thread link to me. I am always amazed when I read a post like this that fully demonstrates the depth of knowledge and expertise of what is possible with these cars. I am floored when a craftsman like yourself actually re-invents their car when they do their project. Thanks for sharing, I'm a subscriber now!

1973 Grande Build

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