Lift underneath subframe connectors?

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Vinnie

Project manager "Project AmsterFoose"
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2013
Messages
1,589
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Location
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
My Car
1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2V, built on the very last production day (July 6, 1973) for Grande's.
Hey guys,

I reached a point where I really would like to buy a car lift. They usually support underneath the front and rear frame rails correct? But I now have the subframe connectors installed:

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Can the car still be lifted under the front rail and now underneath the subframe connector?

The rear is now lower to the ground then before. Should I simply put a block of wood under the front to keep the car level?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,

Vincent.
 
Yep, I picked up a lift a few years back courtesy of 2 loaded 73 mustang doors & a space saver spare. I had enough cash on hand from selling the extra parts that came with the Mustang to make a cash offer on a new lift. I picked up a Challenger. I was surprised that Bendpack claimed to be made in Canada. I think they meant to say assembled in Canada. I ended up w/a Challenger, they claimed assembled in America & the sticker says PRC in fine print. I also noticed they dont put huge CHALLENGER letters on them anymore, just lil stickers. Ye they are made in China. I think all of them are now imports. Needless to say I imagine porosities in the metal/ or some sort of defect & always use 2 jack stands. The worst car I ever put on was my 67 GTO. It had 3" exhaust & the body flexed, so it needed to be spread out. Make sure the blocks aren't cracked & use jackstands. The lift will adjust 3" of difference and the car doesn't have to sit 100% level. Anytime I use a block I limit the type of work & always put a lil pressure on the jack stands. They sell all kinds of attachments, they add up $
 

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I would buy a 4-post lift instead of 2-post... much safer, just my 2 cents!
I don't trust any of them, the locks aren't that big. My next-door neighbor has a 4 post, that I'd like to have for my F150, however, his 4 p is in a confined space and he wishes he had a 2 p since he has trouble getting to things. I'd have the same problem, limited space in a 30 X 35 and code doesn't allow 1 ft larger & the way I'm set up it's pick a side.
 
Hey guys,

I reached a point where I really would like to buy a car lift. They usually support underneath the front and rear frame rails correct? But I now have the subframe connectors installed:



Can the car still be lifted under the front rail and now underneath the subframe connector?

The rear is now lower to the ground then before. Should I simply put a block of wood under the front to keep the car level?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,

Vincent.
Yes. I have a scissors type of lift and I have been using the rear of my subframe connector as support.
 
Yes. I have a scissors type of lift and I have been using the rear of my subframe connector as support.
A scissor lift is what I’m gonna look at this week as well. Don’t want a 2 post and 4 post is too expensive and hardly ever fits my garage’s narrow width.
 
FWIW we installed a Pro Park 8 4 post lift about 1 1/2 years ago It is tight getting around the posts at times, but it does a great job. The initial intent was to be able to stack two of our pony cars in a single garage stall. It handles that perfectly, but we did have to get special high-lift railing for the sectional garage door to gain maximum ceiling height in our finished garage. I do not recall the ceiling to floor measurement, but suffice it say that we have barely 4" of total clearance of the stacked cars (2 " of the bottom car roof vs lift cross brace, and 2" top car roof and opened garage door. I knew it was going to be tight. But, it works fine. No paint has been scuffed on any roofs (yet)...

I had hoped to be able to use the lift to work on the cars off the ground, as a secondary hope. That worked out really well. But, in order to make the most of the 4 post life getting wheels off the ground, or lift ramp, I bought the option rail mounted hydraulic jack. I found two photos of the lift ramp where you can see the center hydraulic lift, if you look carefully. attach it. Well worth the additional money. The center hydraulic lift unit had arms that extend out toward the driver and passenger sides of the car, and have some lift extensions with very hard rubber to contact the vehicle underbody. In some cases those ears and extensions did not give me the lift to get the wheels off the ground when lifting from the unibody (not from the lower control arm). I was able to put some pressure treated 4" x 4" wood blocks between the lift pads and the underbody, which works out perfectly.

There was one time I had to replace the Shift Shaft and Arm assembly on an AOD I swapped into our 73 Mach 1 (THAT was a fun project!). I was able to get to the AOD just fine when the Mach 1 was up in the air on the lift ramps, but reaching up overhead for long periods of time was giving me grief (side effects from life saving brain cancer surgery). While up high in the air I drained the AOD tranny oil. Then I lowered it until it was about 1 1/2 - 2 feet up in the air, and waited for the 4 posts' safety locked clicked into place. As a precaution I put some jack stands under the car. I was then able to use a floor creeper to get under the car and swap out the Shift Shaft assembly and installed a new, highly adjustable shift shaft from Summit Racing (Lokar PMA-PASS53104) while laying underneath the Mach 1 very comfortably. The entire operation was made far easier with the car being easily and safely lifted using the ramps on the 4 post design.

I have now used the lift for several repairs on our cars and on a neighbors Subaru (brake job), and feel this is one of the best investments I have made in tools in a very long time. A two post life may have been more practical, but I have no idea how thick our concrete floor is, much less the quality and strength of the concrete. With a 4 post life that is not an issue, it is rock solid whenever the posts are placed on a level floor surface. Also, I can relocate the 4 post life easily if ever I want to do so.

Four post lift, not one regret. But, I strongly suggest getting the center hydraulic lift option, which has a housing that slides back and forth on the left and right side inner ramp rails. The center lift is very heavy, best to get it set up when the lift is first assembled. Also, despite how good you may be at assembling equipment, I suggest having the reseller install and set it up, and show you how to use and move it. You will need a 110 volt outlet nearby for the electric motor that handles the hydraulic powered cables to lift and lower the unit lift ramps.
 

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I lifted my Mach 1 under the subframe connector in the back, with a shorter pin under the pad. Up front, I used a slightly longer pin under the lift pad, and placed it under the torque box where it meets the front frame connector. I've attached a couple pictures to hopefully make it less confusing.

And yes, I love having the 2 post lift. As others have said, it's one of the best tool purchases you'll ever make (and probably the largest, too). Anyway, I hope this helps.
 

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Thanks for all your replies guys. This morning I have bought one of these:

1678979161103.png 1678979245962.png

Should be delivered (didn't fit in my trunk) this tuesday and I can't wait. Next to the 2 sets of wilwood disc brakes it's the most money spent on my Mustang at once...

I went to the shop to see it. It'seemed very sturdy, and all the measurements match our cars very well. I fit in between well so working from there should not be an issue. I'll post more when I have it installed!
 
Hopefully soon I'll be getting to join the club. Since last summer, I've been building my workshop. Its finally up to the point where I was talking to my local rotary lift dealer today to get one ordered. AFAIK, they are one of the few brands that are actually made in the USA. I've been putting off a lot of car projects so I could focus on building the shop and saving my pennies for the lift.

Rotary's parent company does own some other brands that are imported. Forward Lift is one of them.

As far as lifting the car by the subframe correctors, I reckon that would vary by individual car, since the connectors may be different or installed differently in every one. But as a whole, isn't the whole point of the connectors to be a structural member with the frame and make the car more rigid? I would think that any subframe connector than is not suitable to use as a lift point would be kinda worthless and should be promptly removed and put in the trashcan.
 
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