Rubber Fuel Line Replacement - What’s Best?

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My Car
1973 Q code Mach 1 blue glow C6 auto
1973 Q code Mach 1 blue glow, 4 speed
1973 H code Convertible ivy glow, FMX
I was replacing my fuel lines today on my 73 convertible. When I got to the rubber portions, they felt a little soft. I cut one open to see what was going on and was shocked to see the level of deterioration of these fuel lines. They are Gates 4219BG Barricade Greenshield with a date code of 5/22/13. I can hardly believe any fuel was getting through these things. This car has had only 200 miles since 2013 so maybe this was caused by fouled fuel over a long period. I’d be interested in knowing what others are using for the 3/8” and 5/16” rubber fuel lines. Here are some photos of what I’m dealing with.
 

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I was replacing my fuel lines today on my 73 convertible. When I got to the rubber portions, they felt a little soft. I cut one open to see what was going on and was shocked to see the level of deterioration of these fuel lines. They are Gates 4219BG Barricade Greenshield with a date code of 5/22/13. I can hardly believe any fuel was getting through these things. This car has had only 200 miles since 2013 so maybe this was caused by fouled fuel over a long period. I’d be interested in knowing what others are using for the 3/8” and 5/16” rubber fuel lines. Here are some photos of what I’m dealing with.
Steve, 10 years on a rubber fuel line hose is about as much as we can expect. It's good you tested them and realized there was a problem.
 
Are the Gates fuel hoses that went bad marked as being EPDM?
Ron,
I did not see that on the hose anywhere. It does say it is SAEJ30R14T1 EPA compliant. That standard appears to cover use with various fuels including ethanol. I haven’t seen a hose disintegrate to that degree before.
 

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Ron,
I did not see that on the hose anywhere. It does say it is SAEJ30R14T1 EPA compliant. That standard appears to cover use with various fuels including ethanol. I haven’t seen a hose disintegrate to that degree before.
It should have been ethanol resistant although being an EPA compliant hose does not confirm that fact. EPA compliance has more to do with it's hydrocarbon vapor permeability rating. I use fuel injection rated hose. All modern hoses marked EPDM should be ethanol resistant. I have seen the hoses that the OE manufacturers use on their injection systems last for years.

Ron
 
I also used Fuel Injection rated rubber fuel lines. It seems that any parts store is best served to only offer fuel injection rated fuel lines, in case someone not knowing there is a difference in non-fuel injection vs fuel injection ratings sells the wrong, weaker fuel line when the higher pressure designed fuel line was needed. I don't think I could get non-fuel injection rated fuel line from out local AutoZone. I know when I purchased some fuel line from them the other year, so I could replace the fuel lines at the fuel tank, fuel pump, and fuel filter, the line I got said it was fuel injection (high pressure) rated - fine with me.

Anyway, despite what caused you to want to replace the fuel lines, I am glad you are doing it. I have only seen a few cases where the rubber lines at the fuel pump, or the fuel tank, caused a problem on vintage First Generation Mustangs or Shelbys. But, I can't say the same for the rubber fuel line at the fuel filters that screw into the carburetor. Those are under pressure, albeit only 5-7 PSI or so. But it is enough to weaken those rubber hoses at the carburetor sooner than the other locations rubber fuel lines are used. I repaired more than a few underhood fires caused by those fuel lines at the filter beginning to leak liquid gasoline near the distributor that is located at the front of the engine. Pooffff... The lucky folks it happens to have good insurance and the car is totaled. The less lucky are either un(der)insured, or the insurance company pays to get the problem fixed. Although I would always get the car back into good operating condition using new parts, I would often have an adjuster who wanted me to installed used replacement parts, and just wrap or tape up damaged electrical wires. I never succumbed to the almost veiled threats of no future work if I did not comply. I did the job correctly. But, I am sure others were not as enthusiastic about wanting to do that kind of job properly.

Okay, that dead horse is well beaten. So I will now step back, at least a little. I see Cleveland Crush mention the rubber fuel lines ought to be replaced every 10 years. I do not disagree, but for the carburetor fuel filter's rubber fuel line I would say replace it annually, whenever a tuneup is performed. In a similar arena, I know I really ought to change the hydraulic rubber hoses for our braking systems on all our cars. In our vintage Mustangs and Shelby they are, to my knowledge, all original. They look pretty good for being 50+ years old, with very minor checking. And I usually subscribe to the "Don't fix what ain't broken," line of thinking. But, this impending Car Season is anticipated to be quiet as I did a lot of work on those cars last year. And I am looking at things to do this season. I have already replaced the fuel lines on the 73 vert, and ought to replace them on the other two vintage ponies. And all three should have new brake hydraulic lines installed, along with a flushing and use of new DOT 3 disc brake fluid. That would be a somewhat costly set of maintenance operations, but money (and time) well spent. I am so glad this thread came up, as it had helped me zero in on what I ought to be doing this Car Season! Woo Hoo, I have renewed purpose in life!

An aside, for anyone who has not replaced fuel lines at the fuel tank or fuel pump, I have a YouTube video showing how I do it. I know it sounds like it ought to be a no brainer procedure, But, I promise you there is more to it than just, "All you have to do is." Neglect looking at the YouTube video at your own peril if you have done that kind of work before. It is easy enough, but you really need to know what you are getting into to prevent some serious problems along the way:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkKVcliOd2w
 
The most common issue I have seen with degraded fuel hoses is the tank to the pump hose becoming spongy and collapsing cutting off fuel flow to the pump. I agree with you on flushing brake fluid and brake fluid is still pretty cheap if bought in quantity. I perform a fluid flush on my cars every 3 years. As a matter of fact the Mustang is due for flush. I have a cool vacuum pump set-up I built from my parents former medical lab equipment. I use it all the time for brake system flushes and bleeding. I have a lift so I can get a flush done in about an hour per car including the clutch hydraulics on my Mazdas.

Ron
 
The most common issue I have seen with degraded fuel hoses is the tank to the pump hose becoming spongy and collapsing cutting off fuel flow to the pump. I agree with you on flushing brake fluid and brake fluid is still pretty cheap if bought in quantity. I perform a fluid flush on my cars every 3 years. As a matter of fact the Mustang is due for flush. I have a cool vacuum pump set-up I built from my parents former medical lab equipment. I use it all the time for brake system flushes and bleeding. I have a lift so I can get a flush done in about an hour per car including the clutch hydraulics on my Mazdas.

Ron
Lucky bugger! Vacuum pump, lift and no doubt more lovely tools. I'm jealous!
 
The lift is the one thing I absolutely had to have.
And no doubt a large garage as well.
I only have a single car garage, not much room to work and certainly not enough for a lift, but I did still manage to pull and replace the motor......... twice.
 
I'm not sure what "brand" of fuel injector hose I was sold, but I did find one thing by accident. Don't get gasoline on the outside of the hose. The stuff I got, gas seemed to 'melt' the outside and I got black crap on my hands. That may not be the case for other brands of F/J hose though. The inside must be ok as I've had no problems in the 6 years it's been on my car.
 
And no doubt a large garage as well.
I only have a single car garage, not much room to work and certainly not enough for a lift, but I did still manage to pull and replace the motor......... twice.
It is 28 by 28. The funny thing is that the 2 times I pulled my engine I was in a the 1 car garage of the house I grew up in and then the second time was in the basement garage of my house. Both garages were on the tight side. But I got it done. This picture is from 2015 when I first finished the garage and got the lift. I have reconfigured a few things since. I also put in heat this year. Thank God for that.
 

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It is 28 by 28. The funny thing is that the 2 times I pulled my engine I was in a the 1 car garage of the house I grew up in and then the second time was in the basement garage of my house. Both garages were on the tight side. But I it done. This picture is from 2015 when I first finished the garage and got the lift. I have reconfigured a few things since. I also put in heat this year. Thank God for that.
Now you're really getting me jealous!! That's a sweet setup indeed.
I did have to 'cheat' a bit, by pulling the car forward.
Now, back to the program............
 

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Now you're really getting me jealous!! That's a sweet setup indeed.
I did have to 'cheat' a bit, by pulling the car forward.
Now, back to the program............
Don't be jealous, it would have been much easier if I could have done the engine job in the new garage. Had it existed at the time. Hey, you got it done and that is what matters. There is honor in overcoming adversity. BTW, I am still paying for that garage. LOL.

Ron
 
Don't be jealous, it would have been much easier if I could have done the engine job in the new garage. Had it existed at the time. Hey, you got it done and that is what matters. There is honor in overcoming adversity. BTW, I am still paying for that garage. LOL.

Ron
Hey, Ron. What part of the USA do you reside in? Lynda and I are in Pittsford, NY (suburb of Rochester in the NorthWest of the state). Just curious...
 
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