Rear Windshield Help

BFH 429 · May 8, 2023

Hi Guys, looking for some help on a few items related to rear window install. Have attempted to break them out below:

Window Trim Anchor Repair

One of the "buttons" that anchors the trim retainers to the body on my car is missing. I think it my have been damaged at some point and then pushed out or drilled out. Hole looks stock however, so may even have been a miss from the factory? I looked in my body assembly manual, but it only states that I need to put a "blind rivet" into the hole as a fix. Problem is, it does not specify a make or Ford PN, etc for the correct rivet to use. Has anyone done one of these repairs and is there a factory approved option?

Window Trim Retainers

Is there a particular retainer to get over another? I have heard some retainers sit too high and don't allow the trim to sit flush on the glass.

Window Sealing

Assembly manual calls for a piece of foam tape to sit between the flange and the glass seal. It does not appear to call for any additional sealant to be placed between the seal and the body for the rear glass. Seems odd to me as I believe some butyl or similar is necessary to ensure that water doesn't get past the foam and into the interior. Any recommendations either way?

Marc

Stanglover · May 8, 2023

I don't recall any of that, but then the shop did have professionals remove and replace the back window as well as the windshield. Maybe I got lucky, but it's never leaked. I did watch them put the window in and I know it was a pita to do.

vintageman · May 8, 2023

I just removed the rear windshield in my Mach 1 on Friday evening. I only installed it a few months, maybe a year ago and fought to get the stock molding back on properly. I could not get the molding to clip properly so I used window weld to kind of glue it on, but on the two top corners, it always ended up coming loose and sticking up some. Friday night, I removed the trim, removed the rear windshield and cleaned everything back up. The seal was still like brand new, so I cleaned it, ran a piece of rope around the inner flange of the windshield seal trim to help with the installation. Installed new clips for the trim and test fit my trim. Trim finally fit great so I removed it and I reinstalled my windshield, used the rope to get the seal in place around the sail and headliner. I installed the trim again for another test fit and it fits better now. I did not use the foam under the windshield, it made it sit higher and the trim would not lock in. For a couple of the clips that kept coming off, I drilled a small hole next to the stud and used a small screw that came with the clips to hold the clip securely.
In the next day or so, I will go out and add the sealant about halfway deep in the channel between the seal and the body, then reinstall the trim.

Not a real hard job, just a pain taking trim off and putting back on to test fitment. Good luck.

Tom

BFH 429 · May 8, 2023

vintageman said:
I just removed the rear windshield in my Mach 1 on Friday evening. I only installed it a few months, maybe a year ago and fought to get the stock molding back on properly. I could not get the molding to clip properly so I used window weld to kind of glue it on, but on the two top corners, it always ended up coming loose and sticking up some. Friday night, I removed the trim, removed the rear windshield and cleaned everything back up. The seal was still like brand new, so I cleaned it, ran a piece of rope around the inner flange of the windshield seal trim to help with the installation. Installed new clips for the trim and test fit my trim. Trim finally fit great so I removed it and I reinstalled my windshield, used the rope to get the seal in place around the sail and headliner. I installed the trim again for another test fit and it fits better now. I did not use the foam under the windshield, it made it sit higher and the trim would not lock in. For a couple of the clips that kept coming off, I drilled a small hole next to the stud and used a small screw that came with the clips to hold the clip securely.
In the next day or so, I will go out and add the sealant about halfway deep in the channel between the seal and the body, then reinstall the trim.

Not a real hard job, just a pain taking trim off and putting back on to test fitment. Good luck.

Tom

Ok thanks Tom. That's what I was thinking - that the sealer went between the body and the seal. It's about the only way to do it. I hadn't considered the relationship between the foam tape and relationship to trim. I will try a dry fit first to see if I get the same issue. What kind of sealer did you use? I'm leaning towards butyl.

BFH 429 · May 8, 2023

Stanglover said:
I don't recall any of that, but then the shop did have professionals remove and replace the back window as well as the windshield. Maybe I got lucky, but it's never leaked. I did watch them put the window in and I know it was a pita to do.

Hi Geoff - do you recall if they used the foam tape?

Stanglover · May 9, 2023

BFH 429 said:
Hi Geoff - do you recall if they used the foam tape?

That I can't be sure of, but I don't think so. I'm pretty sure I only bought the actual rubber seal for the window. All my trim is original and fits perfectly. What I can do is look at my list of parts from NPD. If there was a foam seal, it'll be on there. It's almost 10 year since the car was stripped and painted, so hard to remember.

EDIT:. The only item I see on my invoice from NPD is #42084-4A described as 'weatherstrip, back glass D1ZZ-6342084' and at the time, was $34.95 US.

Fabrice · May 9, 2023

Late to the party here... I need remove mine. The PO used tons of sealant and removing the trim was "something".
@vintageman As you've just done it. How do you remove this baby exactly? Do I need free stuff from the inside first?
I know I will have to digg it out of at least 2 kinds of sealant, one very sticky, one sillicon-ish.
Removing the trim took me forever... so now aside the glass with defrost that I would very much like to not break, is there a good way to pop it out of the channel? from within?

Here some impression of the "trim event" :O

Stanglover · May 9, 2023

Fabrice said:
Late to the party here... I need remove mine. The PO used tons of sealant and removing the trim was "something".
@vintageman As you've just done it. How do you remove this baby exactly? Do I need free stuff from the inside first?
I know I will have to digg it out of at least 2 kinds of sealant, one very sticky, one sillicon-ish.
Removing the trim took me forever... so now aside the glass with defrost that I would very much like to not break, is there a good way to pop it out of the channel? from within?

Here some impression of the "trim event" :O

View attachment 76547

View attachment 76546

Oh yuk!! What a mess. Rather you than me my friend.

Fabrice · May 9, 2023

@Stanglover, yeah I wish it was you

Worse, not one of the solvents I have seems to have any impact on it. I'm thinking about to torch/burn this mess out of the trim. Few cm's at a time to not damage the metal. The pictures can't really show how hard and flexible that sealant is... Even a sharp blade of a cutter doesn't do the trick, as it becomes stuk in it.

Stanglover · May 9, 2023

Fabrice said:
@Stanglover, yeah I wish it was you
Worse, not one of the solvents I have seems to have any impact on it. I'm thinking about to torch/burn this mess out of the trim. Few cm's at a time to not damage the metal. The pictures can't really show how hard and flexible that sealant is... Even a sharp blade of a cutter doesn't do the trick, as it becomes stuk in it.

I'm not sure if this would work, but have you thought about using a dremel or similar rotary tool with a carbide bit to grind it out. It would be messy, but it might work. Just need to be careful not to hit the outside surface of the metal.

vintageman · May 9, 2023

Fabrice said:
Late to the party here... I need remove mine. The PO used tons of sealant and removing the trim was "something".
@vintageman As you've just done it. How do you remove this baby exactly? Do I need free stuff from the inside first?
I know I will have to digg it out of at least 2 kinds of sealant, one very sticky, one sillicon-ish.
Removing the trim took me forever... so now aside the glass with defrost that I would very much like to not break, is there a good way to pop it out of the channel? from within?

Here some impression of the "trim event" :O

View attachment 76547

View attachment 76546

Fabrice, looks like you have a real mess there brother. For actually removing the glass, when I did it the first time, my seal was very old and I chipped away the seal from the outside of the glass and then gently removed the glass with the seal remaining in the window channel. The windshield itself came out very easy because once the rubber seal was chipped off of the outside of the window, nothing was holding it in. Chipping the outside seal only took about 5 minutes and then lifting out the window took a few seconds. If you have someone to assist, after you chip away the outside of the seal, have them push gently from the inside of the car and it will lift right out. Then you have to go through the process of removing the old seal from the channel and cleaning up everything. Since you have the trim off, the rest of the process is only a few minutes long for removal. Ensure that you buy new clips and install them first, install the trim to make sure everything fits properly. Also, don't fill the entire channel with sealant, that will keep the clips from opening properly when trying to install the trim. Good luck.

Tom

vintageman · May 9, 2023

Fabrice said:
@Stanglover, yeah I wish it was you
Worse, not one of the solvents I have seems to have any impact on it. I'm thinking about to torch/burn this mess out of the trim. Few cm's at a time to not damage the metal. The pictures can't really show how hard and flexible that sealant is... Even a sharp blade of a cutter doesn't do the trick, as it becomes stuk in it.

Fabrice, have you tried spraying the blade with WD-40 and then trying to clean the trim? That's what I did and it helped the blade not to get so stuck. After I got the majority off, I used a bent end pick tool to get the trim channels clean. Good luck brother.

Tom

vintageman · May 9, 2023

BFH 429 said:
Ok thanks Tom. That's what I was thinking - that the sealer went between the body and the seal. It's about the only way to do it. I hadn't considered the relationship between the foam tape and relationship to trim. I will try a dry fit first to see if I get the same issue. What kind of sealer did you use? I'm leaning towards butyl.

BFH, off the top of my head, I think I used a a non-hardening rtv that comes in a caulk gun type tube. Either that or window weld but I don't think it was window weld right now. I had both types on the shelf and honestly, I could have ended up grabbing either tube. Good luck.

Tom

Fabrice · May 9, 2023

@vintageman
WD-40, yes, tried that, the oil helps to cut bits (by actually oiling the blade) but it's tedious. I did not yet try mechanical, but I think torching will be the most effective. For now, it's far down my todo, i'll keep this fun mess removal for the winter days...

Thx for the removal tip, make sense, I'll cut the upper part of the rubber...

Stanglover · May 9, 2023

vintageman said:
BFH, off the top of my head, I think I used a a non-hardening rtv that comes in a caulk gun type tube. Either that or window weld but I don't think it was window weld right now. I had both types on the shelf and honestly, I could have ended up grabbing either tube. Good luck.

Tom

Thinking back, I think they used a butyl type sealant on mine, probably the same as they used on the front windshield.

midlife · May 9, 2023

You might want to try a heat gun to soften the gunk before trying to pry it out. If I were you, I'd avoid any rotary devices to cut through the gunk as it may inadvertently damage the part should you slip.

Stanglover · May 10, 2023

midlife said:
You might want to try a heat gun to soften the gunk before trying to pry it out. If I were you, I'd avoid any rotary devices to cut through the gunk as it may inadvertently damage the part should you slip.

Rethinking my original post, I think I'd agree with you on this one now. And yes, a heat gun over a flame any day.

Otto · May 10, 2023

I believe what you are asking about is, closed cell foam tape (neoprene). The suggested method to install the window is use the tape along the edge of the mounting surface. Once you install the window gasket and rear window, it fills and helps seal that area. The last recommended step is to run a bead of silicone along the edge of the window seal, to further seal out water.

I didn't use the tape when I installed my window. Over time the tape can dry up and crack. If the edge is exposed at all, it allows moisture in which will rust the metal. Especially if the moisture reaches the sail panel glued onto the edge because it will wick the moisture. I ran a thick bead of silicone about 1/4 inch off the edge, so when you rope the seal in place, it doesn't get on the part of the seal that does into the car. After that install your window moulding, which when properly installed, determines how deep the window sits. I hope this was helpful.

piper62j · May 11, 2023

I've been using 3M 08509 sealer for over 50 years on vehicles that require a ruber gasket for the glass. This stuff does not harden and is easy to clean up. You can work it up under the weatherstrip between the glass and the channel.. Also, you can run a bead on the pinch weld before installation. It's great stuff and seals very well.

stajp · May 11, 2023

Otto said:
I believe what you are asking about is, closed cell foam tape (neoprene). The suggested method to install the window is use the tape along the edge of the mounting surface. Once you install the window gasket and rear window, it fills and helps seal that area. The last recommended step is to run a bead of silicone along the edge of the window seal, to further seal out water.

I didn't use the tape when I installed my window. Over time the tape can dry up and crack. If the edge is exposed at all, it allows moisture in which will rust the metal. Especially if the moisture reaches the sail panel glued onto the edge because it will wick the moisture. I ran a thick bead of silicone about 1/4 inch off the edge, so when you rope the seal in place, it doesn't get on the part of the seal that does into the car. After that install your window moulding, which when properly installed, determines how deep the window sits. I hope this was helpful.

you are correct on the foam tape. it was used on cougar windows also.

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