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I have a Milodon windage tray in my 460. Well made, no issues at all. https://www.milodon.com/oil-system/windage-trays-studs.php

Our 'Like' button needs a Jealous emoticon. Great find! (y)

My first thought was "gator". I think that was a Galaxie, though..... Nice catch! It's great to know another rare one is being saved. (y) (y)

When I was in HS a buddy had a 68 coupe. Another friend had just bought a a '78 Mustang II. The ignition keys were the same - they used to steal each other's cars.

The 24F (F for Ford) battery puts the positive post next to the starter solenoid.

If you want one that is guaranteed to fit and work correctly, go to Bill at Desert Classic Parts. He personally rebuilds them, no chinese parts. https://desertclassicparts.com/product-category/fuel-system/

Normally I don't give money to the Walmart exit people, but this guy needed it.

D3ZP-7A020-AA7A020 is correct for a C6 'oil indicator'. The D3ZP- is the model year (decade and year), Model and Fit. In this case D3 = 73, Model (Z= Mustang) and P (Automatic Transmission). The -AA at the end is an engineering revision code. So the one marked D3ZP-7A020-AA is correct for...

Never heard of it. Sounds good. Search of the interwebs says on Apple+ Oh well.

Offhand it sounds like the IVR is not grounded correctly or is failing. A bad IVR will make the gauges (Oil, Temp, Fuel) all go to high. https://7173mustangs.com/threads/gauges-101.40104/#post-401023

I have 'a few'. PM me your shipping address.

When my '69 broke the distributor shaft somewhere in NY Hagerty knew who was close & guaranteed them. I specifically asked for a ramp truck and they told me that their policy is to always use flatbed/roller/ramp trucks on classic/antique vehicles. Sometimes it takes longer for one to get...

Last I knew the Key On safety was the main improvement from 1 to 2. Strange that Pertronix doesn't say that in their product descriptions (maybe the lawyers told them to admit nothing regarding burned out P1 units). P1: Product Info Delivers twice the voltage to the spark plugs...

I hear ya. Between material costs and shipping I will be raising a lot of mine come August.

The IVR screw is gold and has a thin crush washer on it. Very coarse thread, same as the black ones that hold the tach /warning lights and speedo in. Both use a 1/4" driver.

My quartz conversion does not require a working set knob. Somewhere around here there is a thread about it. Found it https://7173mustangs.com/threads/clock-quartz-conversion.41665/#post-425013 Maybe some folks that have one will let you know what they think of it.

3 years or 36,000 Miles. The idea was to make you happy enough to buy another after 5 years or so. Ford never intended for these things to be on the road in the 21st century. Thanks to BIC (Lighter, Pen, etc) Planned Obsolescence was finally perfected in the 80s.

Pimp my ride - crack edition

I have found quite a few printed circuit cards that the fingers have come unglued and are misaligned.most likely from the connector being installed/removed at an angle rather than straight.

It's easy to integrate into your website. Most people are familiar with it. It gives the seller and buyer protections - but leans toward the buyer in disputes. The transfers from your PayPal account to your bank account is usually pretty quick - a day or two. If you have to refund a purchase...