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Your clock has a GT (General Time) movement. By 'the copper fried' I am guessing the copper coil windings are burned up? Send it in, I may be able to revive it.

Yeah, I thought of that after, but that's the way some were marked from Ford. I've only seen them on the older fiberboard backed ones, the later plastic board are IGN only or nothing. Male and Female are consistent until 2010 or so, then they started 'self identifying'... ;)

Not quite. The IVR is a primitive voltage reducer. It takes B+ (battery voltage) and creates a pulsing low (6V+) voltage to power the gauges. Your drawing should have 'IGN' on the male snap connector (your +) and 'ACC' on the female connector (your -). The mounting tab is the electrical ground.

The light comes on when there is a front/rear in-balance in the hydraulic braking system. It can be triggered by bleeding the brakes as well. The procedure to recenter the Pressure Differential Valve and turn the BRAKES warning light off is in the Shop Manual, section 12-01. Description and...

http://midlifeharness.com/pricing.html

Thanks BKDunha. I am working on a tach for Cyclones and Montegos. Unfortunately I am finding more and more specialty vendors or vendors that deal with small business just don't exist anymore. I am also working on a '69 Torino version, but the brushed aluminum on those is really challenging...

Not a Mustang, but I just have to brag about my newest offering. A tach for non tach 68 Torinos. Replaces the clock or clock delete. I used a factory tach to design the artwork.

I busted a few mounts with the 351C I put in my '69 back in the 70s. Back then we used the old hefty chain method. When I put in the 460 I went with a 8" turnbuckle from head to frame. I put a little preload on it and have had no motor mount problems in 20+ years.

I am working on an updated version that has the seconds hand and some other features, but the M7123DC is still available: Website: https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-services#clocks

It becomes a modern '3 wire' tach so it is no longer part of the primary circuit. The third wire goes to the distributor side of the coil or ignition box tach output. If you opt for a converted factory tach or to have your warning light assembly converted into a tach Midlife can include the...

I generally pay up to $100 for one as long as the case is intact, the pointer is all there (many are snapped off or short) and the face isn't pitted or rusted. I don't care if they work or not since the Faria built tachs were garbage in 1971 and have not gotten better with age. Most have dried...

Ford Streetka https://www.topspeed.com/cars/ford/2003-ford-streetka-ar517.html

I came across it on Amazon.  It's part of a 3 Halicki movie set. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K31RCNO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gone in 60 Seconds II was released as a 34 minute short. Irregardless, I think the seller needs to step away from the crack pipe.

If you use the factory connector/pigtail I send back with the tach to make the jumper you will be tapping into the 12V (B+) ignition wire before the resistor. Check the voltage under the dash @ the connector - it has full battery voltage. Put the red tach wire in with the two you combined to...

Your best bet is Midlife Harness.  Randy is a supporting member here and can restore your harness to original condition and add any 'new' circuits for things that have added on after the car left the factory.  http://midlifeharness.com/welcome.html

Love my FPA headers.  Great guy, easy to work with.

I have a shop that wants to buy an accessory (Temp/Amps/Oil) gauge pod from me.  I have no idea what I paid or traded for it.  The pod is complete, in very good shape and has the OEM harness. Problem is, I have no idea what it's worth.  Anyone care to place a value on it?

AMK makes kits. https://www.amkproducts.com/master-kits/ford/?product_id=71Z-76D&masterkits=FordMasterKits&element=Interior I picked the first one for the link, but there are more choices.

Yes, I do both.  https://www.rccinnovations.com/