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The tach will read low if you have too much resistance in the primary circuit.  Are you running the factory 'pink' wire along with an external ballast resistor, or an aftermarket 3.0 ohm '12V' coil? A list of Pertronix coils and their resistance ratings is here: ...

The 1.5 ohm resistor is to protect the coil/points. During start the circuit has B+ (battery voltage).  Since the primary ignition circuit goes through the tach the tach is designed to have that resistor. Without it the tach will read high (and eventually die). If you have a tach reading...

Needle would be on or just past E at 10 ohms.  3/4 is about 16 I believe.  If the needle does not not max out when disconnected from sender then it's in the sender or gauge. 71-73 have plastic housings so it's not the gauge stud grounding.  That leaves sender or printed circuit on back of...

I rebuilt my FMX back in 79 or 80.  I din't remember details, but it was fairly straight forward.  I worked in a garage at the time so I had access to tools like an inch pound torque wrench, but I don't remember there being anything crazy hard about it.   Why not order the kit and have at it?

It drives me nuts when people don't take the time to twist multi-strand wires before they connect them together.  Seriously, how much longer would it have taken to make a decent looking connection.  That's just shoddy workmanship.  /S  :classic_tongue:

From my '69:

I have seen this happen when using a relay in the ignition circuit:

There's a good chance that it's wear on the winder gear shaft.  The shaft has spring tension on it and slowly wears it's mounting hole into a groove. The gear gets cockeyed and the clock stops.  Is there any wobble/play in the main gear that winds?  If not then you may get lucky and only need a...

Sounds like a slipped timing chain.  Check #1 cylinder on compression stroke is aligned in distributor cap.

Maybe her lawyer insisted he sell his car and give her half.....

It sounds like you have power on both ring terminals at the meter.  Please confirm that one is switched power and the other is going to ground.

I was told that the primer protects the stripped metal and will be block sanded to expose lows and highs in the panels.

I will be leaving tomorrow,. It's about 1400 miles each way.  Not bringing anything to sell (don't have anything) but my wife and Dr insist that I need a vacation/time away from the shop.  I kept my vendor spot so I have onsite parking and get in on Thursday.

Do you by any chance have a Melling High Volume oil pump?  I ask because I broke an Accel distributor shaft in my 351C in the 70's, then went through 3 roll pins in my 460 over 10 years.  It was so bad that I started carrying a spare distributor with me.  I read somewhere that 335 (351C, 351M...

That's where I would start.  The flexplate will flex some but eventually break so you need to take care of the misalignment.  My guess is it's hitting the starter snout. I had a weird knocking noise I couldn't find. I finally decided to check for a loose torque converter.  Here's what I found...

Brake pressure warning light.

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From the 71 Shop Manual:

I have used the large, laminated color coded diagrams from Classic Car Wiring for years.  https://www.classiccarwiring.com/ https://www.classiccarwiring.com/mustang/

Check that the coil is not wired backwards. I have seen many coils with + (IGN) and - (DIST) posts wired wrong.  The car will run that way, but not that well. Easy way to make sure: Take the wires off the coil. Turn on key switch. Wire with voltage goes to positive + (IGN) side of coil...