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It's not 'wrong', it's CUSTOM and it's those 'custom' touches that makes it worth $43K.

1 = Brakes system - tach cluster 2 = High Beams - tach cluster 3 = High Beams - non tach cluster You have one of these: A tach in a non tach cluster (most likely) A non tach speedometer in a tach cluster Tach cluster speedometers have a trip odometer reset button where #3 is. Non tach...

This one? https://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/d/weaverville-71-mustang-convertible/6909000744.html

The LOW and HIGH functions will work w/o the ground wire. You can test the low and high functions by removing the box and plugging the switch straight to the main harness. You can check the box by swapping it into another car with intermittent wipers.

PM sent.

Normally the diode in the 'I' terminal of the voltage regulator is to stop back feeding that can result in engine 'run-on'. I include one in my Pedapter kits 'just in case it happens' but have never heard from anyone that they needed to install it.

I had a similar problem years ago when I was wrenchin' for a living. Customer's car would shut off at cruise - any speed, just constant RPMs. No coughing like a fuel issue, no back firing like a timing or timing chain issue. I finally found a bad wire on the pickup module in the distributor...

Thanks for the plug, Steve-O The volts face for the 71-73 ammeter conversion is now available as well: M7123VO

Same here. Ordered 4, will get 1. Oh well, it's still a deal.

Since I don't know all of you by real name, please PM, post or email me when you place an order so I can give you your 7173 discount.

No worries - I knew back then that you had commitments and wouldn't be installing it until spring, I have sent out others since yours. Sorry to hear you're having health issues. If it was mentioned online I missed it - the new tach movement design has been seriously cutting into mt forum time...

I sent out two converted clocks in December and have received no feedback. The prototypes I have running here have been fine, so I am going with the old 'no news is good news' rule and opening up sales. You can order one through my website...

Solenoid S post is the start circuit. This wire is BLACK w/ ORANGE RED w/ Blue tracer. It should only be hot when the key is in the start position. Solenoid I post is the ignition hot start wire. It bypasses the pink ballast wire and provides full battery voltage during start. This wire is RED...

You will be able to buy a complete clock from me or send in your clock for conversion. When I have cores available I will offer them as complete units and refund the core charge when you send back your clock.

The tach can fail for a variety of reasons - the most talked about is transformer failure - this causes an open in the primary circuit so the car won't run. Probably the second most common issue is a dirty or worn movement, then dried out capacitors.

The factory tach runs off the + side of the coil. Simply put, the wiring is: 12V from ignition switch goes to tach red wire, through tach, out on black wire, through the 'pink' resistor wire to the coil + terminal. If the tach fails then the car will not run, so many of the tachs are unplugged...

Good points, Don. I was thinking about a bad ground as well. He is running a Pertronix I module and switched to a Pertronix coil because we thought the aftermarket coil was faulty. He went with the '12V' coil and ran a new power feed to it, verified that he is getting battery voltage to the...

Actually, I am trying to find out what is being generated for a tach signal. I get that the - side will 'pulse' as the trigger opens and closes, but you can still see an average with a meter. I have a customer that is only getting 8.2 V signal at idle and 10 V around 2700 RPM.The standard for...

I am looking for some input regarding ignition systems. Anyone with a running car, a volt meter and a Pertronix or points ignition can answer this... I want to know what the voltages are on the + and - posts of the coil when the car is running. That's it. Easy, right?   If you could post...

The trip reset is molded into the lens and not removable as a separate assembly. I believe the thread you were looking for is here: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-instrument-lens-with-the-trip-odometer?highlight=lens But he reused his tachometer lens and spliced it to a new fuel gauge...