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I guess my post from the other day got lost somehow. I also have a CAA and recommend sticking with the Sanden mounting bracket, as it's fully adjustable. I didn't like the CAA instructions from their customer service of using the power steering circuit to power the compressor (4-pulleys on a...

I caught up with Scott, and he's been dealing with some medical issues for the past several months, which kind of stalled his efforts to get the manufacturing process underway. He's pretty much there and ready to go, but still has a bit more recovery to do before he can get back into it. Trust...

Sorry, I'm thinking you were told wrong. The markings on the side of every scoop in the picture are identical (regardless of size and location), and the shadows of the ones on the hood are also identical, to include the shadows matching each other from side to side, as well as the center scoop...

I had purchased an Inline Tube kit for my FMX when I lucked into my [almost] free AOD. It came with about 8-10" of its cooling lines still attached, so I cut the FMX lines off within an inch of where the AOD lines ended, bubble flared the ends of both lines, and bridged the gap with some high...

That's a Photoshop if I've ever seen one... but if it's not, Yuck!

Scott Keller wound up with everything needed to look into getting them produced, but we haven't heard anything in awhile - I'll see if I can get an update. I know I signed up for 2 sets if they ever come available, that's how bad I [still] want 'em.

Thanks! The only indicators of 'Mustang' on mine were the two full size 'Mach 1' decals, and the tri-bar in the front grille... oh, and the running horse on the high beam indicator and steering wheel center pad (which mine was shot and replaced with a Grant GT during the restomod process). The...

Nope - just put the sail panels in-place, glue to the rear window opening accordingly, then the quarter panel and quarter window trim pieces will take care of the rest. That little floppy part at the rear gets tucked behind the rear deck piece, and the rear window gasket makes the edge for the...

Thanks! I'm pretty happy with it. I also ditched the woodgrain in favor of 3M black carbon fiber vinyl, and added some '69 Mustang door badges since there are very few actual indicators of being a Mustang on these cars (plus, I just thought they'd look cool and break-up the door panels a little).

As he mentioned, the pistons are quite a bit more involved, and almost turn into one of those "while you're at it" kind of projects. If you pull the pistons, you're wise to pull the crank and replace all the main & con rod bearings... which means pulling the engine. While you're at it, take it...

That's why I mentioned getting some KB Hypereutectic 9.5:1 flat tops (like mine), along with the cam kit, roller rockers, screw-in 7/16" rocker studs, and updating the ignition system (if necessary). With his intake, carb, and exhaust, he pretty much has my engine at that point (although 4V...

Wow - dodged a large caliber projectile there. Good for you!

Read all the way to the bottom of my post - you could probably get pretty close to what I have for around $2K with just a cam kit, pistons, roller rockers, and ignition system upgrade (assuming you don't already have something like an MSD or similar). $3500 of my cost was from the machine...

I too wanted more power than the factory offered, and since I had to rebuild my engine from seized, I threw the check book at it. Your engine isn't too far off of mine, and I'm pushing around 406 at the crank. My recipe: Original 351 Cleveland 2V worked over by a local machine shop -...

Best bet is getting an upholstery shop to help. You could always try replacing the door panel carpet with a roll of automotive carpet from Auto Zone, or somewhere similar. I used that stuff to cover the package tray (rather than just having a painted piece of thick poster board, like from the...

OK, so the frame rail under the shock tower being gone makes it worse than mine. However, my issues required swapping the front clip, which would be the same way I'd address this one. Oh, how I wish I would've had those replacement cowl panels when I was doing mine.

Yes, the rails bolt to the seat bottoms, and it shouldn't matter which side they go on. The 'new' seats in mine were actually the 2 best out of 4 seats I had between mine and a parts car - I have no idea which was the driver or passenger seats, since the releases are in the middle.

I'm also 6'5", and wound up with the TMI Sport Seats - not the SSIIs. They look a lot closer to stock, but have better bolstering. My biggest problem isn't the steering wheel as much as the headliner. I did remove the 'bumpers' between the upper and lower sections, which laid the seats back a...

Despite it's appearance, that might actually be better than what I started with. But, I'm also past my prime for taking on such deep projects. Otherwise, I'd say, "Strip it, dip it, and go for it!" IF, I actually liked pre-69 fastbacks, that is - I'm one of the weirdos that actually prefers...