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Hate to ask, but when you soldered, did you scuff the solder points, use paste flux to clean and then acid core solder, like you'd use for copper pipe?

That's pretty common. The hood is so long, and relatively thin, if your hood hinges are worn or stiff it will bow the hood in the middle from repeated closing. First step is to lube your hinge points or replace the hinges. Next, take it to a body shop. They should be able to flex it back into...

I agree on using Rocketman. He converted my ammeter (ALT) to a voltmeter on another Mustang I had, and it was great. You might consider converting your ammeter at the same time.

As mentioned, you would use the lowest setting, so 1.9 ohms. Here's a problem you may run in to. Digital meters use low current to measure ohms, so if you have a multi-strand wire, like a spark plug wire, and all the strands except one are broken, it will measure the resistance across the...

I used to deal with a shop (before they decided to just do insurance work) that would charge me 2/3 of the bid if I let them use the car as fill in work. It would take 6 months to a year to get it back, but they did great work, and I saved some money. The wait was tough, but worth it in the end.

You may laugh, but in the '70's there were girls that dated guys based on whether or not they had a "cool" car.

Way back in the '70's, I rewired the grill lights on my '72 Mach 1 to come on with the parking lights. I just liked the look better for cruising around in the early evenings.

The rust looks bad enough that you are going to have to replace metal. Do yourself a favor and fix it correctly before spending thousands on a paint job.

If I was going to make a guess, I'd say either the shifter linkage isn't adjusted correctly, keeping the transmission from going into "Drive", or something is wrong with the transmission. If you move the shifter part way between drive and neutral, do you get a third gear?

I would have thought 2K16 as well. I would find the VIN on the transmission. The first number will tell you the year.

Welcome to the site. As for the two hoses from the firewall, you might be talking about the heater hoses, if they go from the front of the engine to the right side of the firewall. They circulate water through the heater core behind the dash.

That's for a 1970 Fairlane/Mustang, 351, 2 bbl, AT, with Imco emissions. I have a Ford MPC book set I use to look up parts, but I think the same thing is available as a download in the 7173 Wiki at the top of page.

That looks like the original distributor. The codes break down to '70/'71 Fairlane/Torino/Mustang, 351 4B with manual transmission, Imco emissions system, June 22, 1971 build date. That would be about correct for a late July car.

If you could post the price, options, mileage, be more specific about condition, it might help people decide as well.

If you take it to a body shop with a frame machine, they should be able to pull that back into place.

I would take the doors off, just for the time savings in taping off everything you don't want bead blasted, plus I think you'll find the area under the hinges isn't as pristine as you might think it is. Is there any movement in the door hinges? The doors are pretty long and heavy, so the hinge...

Bob, sorry to hear of all you've been through. My best wishes to you and your wife.

If water builds up in the drop off, it will flow out, but it's supposed to keep water outside from getting in. They should be available.

I can't say much. I have a Boss that's been sitting on top of a lift in my shop for almost 20 years now, while I worked on other projects. I was going to start on it last year, and then situations changed and I started on my oldest son's first car, a '69 Fairlane 500 Convertible rust bucket instead.

If it has rust around the windshield, doors and the floors are shot, you might also need a cowl and rockers. Even for a track car, the unibody has to be intact and safe. Unless you can do your own body rebuild, it would cost way more than the car would ever be worth to take it to a shop, if you...