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Maybe I should add then that my car is a Boss. I didn't think it would matter in this instance, but since you brought it up......

For reference, My '71 has a scheduled build date of Nov. 16th, 1970, actual build date of Nov. 30th, 1970 and the block date is OK30, one month prior to actual build.

Just saw this on Seattle craigslist today. I'm not close enough that I could inspect it for you, and have no personal knowledge. Posting in case it helps. https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/d/granite-falls-1970-ford-351c-4v-engine/7095795189.html

It's not the port that is different. It's the outlet where the exhaust pipe connects to that's 2 1/4" on a Boss manifold.

It's an "H" code, 351-2V. Those got single exhaust. The gauge package was an option.

I know you said you checked timing, but you can't really set it with a timing light if it's barely running. To me it's either the cam timing is off, the distributor is at least a few teeth off or the firing order is wrong. I'd check those first.

That's where the roof is spot welded to the quarter panel. It can start to come apart because of rust, body damage from a hard hit that twisted the car, or hard driving, like drag raced a lot where the car flexed coming off the line, or something similar. The fix is to grind it all down, weld in...

If you're thinking of getting new headers anyway, consider Tri-Y's. I've used both long tube and Tri-Y, and really like the way Tri-Y's fit better. Steve

I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong, but I believe the 351M also has a higher deck height and uses a big block transmission instead of the 351C small block transmission.

I think we would all be willing to chip in an opinion on value, once we see the condition and extent of the rust. FYI, the R code Mach 1 wouldn't be a hardtop. It's a fastback.

My '72, long ago, had a bare, flat woven cable that went from the back of the block to the firewall. It wouldn't help with your starter issue, but it was the ground for everything on the car body.

"Yeah I saw a diagram of the 2v long version so I’d assume I’d need a short one because I’m running a 4 bbl now and it would suffice thanks for info Geoff!!" It's not just that the short version came with the 4 barrel carb, it's that the 4 barrel exhaust manifolds are larger. Your post sounds...

I really hope you don't take this wrong, because I'm trying to assist, and really hope it works out for you. There are usually blocks on the posts that act as stops for the locking mechanism. To get the locks to engage or disengage,you have to go above the blocks on all four corners and then let...

It looks like your ceiling height is going to keep you from doing one on top of the other, but hopefully there's enough room.

Just to throw out a thought, cast wheels aren't as strong, and are a little heavier, than forged aluminum wheels. Also, I have a set of factory optional cast aluminum wheels on one of my other cars, and the balance on them is really lopsided.

I'll add to make sure the shift linkage is adjusted correctly. If it's off a little, the shifter may say "Drive" but the lever on the transmission might be between 2 and 3. Cheap easy check, no parts to buy.

As a society we're more concerned about the rights and feelings of the criminals than we are of the victims. I could tell horror stories of some of the trials I've served jury duty on. I don't get called any more. I think I wound up on some list as a hard ***.

I believe the EDM method is also called Laser Cutting. I had my machine shop do one bolt I had stuck in a block, and then they welded and re-drilled the hole. It worked out great.

I wouldn't mind being the first to retro the technology to a '71-'73. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/ford-mustang-lithium-electric-horsepower-sema/

I had a '72 Mach 1 that I put long tube headers on. It was lowered 1" in the front and 1/2" in the back. I was constantly scraping headers on speed bumps, pulling in to parking lots, anywhere there was an elevation change. I finally put the stock manifolds back on. I had a '68 California Special...