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That looks like the same material that Ford used on the '68 Mustangs at the top of the shock towers. The stuff gets brittle and breaks away, plus seems to collect moisture and cause rust. I always thought it was an insulator or seal between the spot welded joints, but in the case of the roof...

If I recall, it screws to two brackets on the front of the bottom mount for the trapdoor and the back of both rear seat hinges. There are no separate mounts on the floor.

I'd want to see it first, deal in person. No pictures, and they're shipping it to Michigan from their home in Florida to insure it goes to a good home? Doesn't make sense.

In the not so distant past, society didn't tolerate criminal behavior. They had public executions and everyone watching thought "Don't want that to happen to me". They made those guilty of lesser crimes break rocks in the hot sun, or build roads for the greater good. Now we worry about whether...

In the late 70's/ early 80's, I drove a '72 Mach 1 I had in the snow. Two situations come to mind. We had a heavy snow and I left home for work. Got about a block and was stuck hard. Got out to see why I couldn't move and found my front spoiler had acted like a snow plow and I had a snow berm in...

I'm not positive, but it seems you got it with the air conditioning option.

That, and the Daytona, would be my two dream builds. Very nice.

If you end up needing the extensions, I have a left side 71/72 coupe/convertible extension in great shape. $20 plus shipping. You'll need to paint it.

It sounds like you're focused on blocking excess air into the engine compartment, which isn't bad, but long ago when I raced on road tracks, I lowered the rear end 1/2" and the front end 1", and didn't have any problems at 110-120. Yes, you have to be careful of speed bumps, etc. on the street...

If you have a heat gun, you might be able to heat it up and reform it to work. Re-staple it in place and let it cool on the scoop to keep it's new shape. As a side note, in the early 80's, I bought an NOS part from Ford because I sucked a bird into one of my scoops at high speed and it busted...

I have a Direct Lift 4 post with the sliding jack tray, dolly kit (and removable ramps). I use it mainly for storage, but also working on cars. If you're doing brake or suspension work, it's not as convenient as a two post because you have to jack up the corner after putting the car on the lift...

I don't have first hand knowledge of this, haven't done it myself, but my son has been in to the turbo scene for a couple of decades now. Either way, you'll need forged pistons, and a better fuel system. From sitting around talking gear head with him, a twin turbo setup would be the way to go...

According to Hemikiller, the ground strap my car had was not original. Basically, there has to be a ground between the battery and the chassis at some point. If your negative cable just goes to the engine, the chassis isn't grounded well enough.

Also check the ground strap that runs from the rear of the engine block to the firewall. On a '72, it's a flat, braided copper wire if I recall correctly. I forgot to reinstall it on a previous car when I did an engine rebuild and it caused all kinds of similar problems.

I second that opinion.

Air wasn't an option, and usually dealer installed air had the evaporator and controls under the dash as a separate unit. Way to much work to put everything in the dash like factory. Also, wrong gas cap and no rev limiter. I'd want to verify the VIN on this one.

I went through this with a 1969 XL Convertible I had. As far as I know, the only way to figure out what the original paint color was is to have a paint shop scan the paint in a protected area. My car was painted in what appeared to be a 1966 Lincoln color.

Welcome from north Idaho. I used to live in Vancouver, back in the '80's.

The ratio is .75. I need one for my car also.

The 1969 and 1970 Boss cars were either Boss 302 or Boss 429. In 1971, the only Boss was the Boss 351. All three had specially prepared engines that put out higher performance, so were not your "run of the mill" 302's, 351's or 429's. The Boss cars were usually low option cars as they were meant...