Search results

+1 on the 303 as well. Awesome UV protection and leaves a deep, natural finish with minimal gloss. Glossy vinyl interiors are a pet peeve.

I've seen these mounted inside the cabin multiple times. It's cleaner and the unit will last longer, as you'll keep the electronics away from engine heat and humidity. If you don't mind running the wiring inside the car and fandangling with the box in a hidden location, it's definitely the way...

Wow I missed this thread too! Here's mine... BigBlue - Josue

I feel that converting my classic Mustang would kind of ruin the feeling of driving a vintage car. Some of the smells, the sound, the way it acts, all of that would completely change. In which case, I'd be driving a classic Mustang just for looks, and honestly, looks are almost last in my order...

A warm WELCOME from sunny Miami! Glad to see some big nose Mustang representation in Russia. Hope to see the progress posted here on the site. Good luck!

A warm (literally) welcome from Florida! Next time I’m in Texas I MUST visit your museum.

NO. Throwing my two cents in here... Rear spoilers on our cars are kind of stupid. They have no functionality, and other than keeping a car as-equipped from the factory or for originality's sake, they do more harm than good. The rear spoiler breaks up the clean body lines and makes the rear too...

Found him...

You're all being harsh. I mean, do we even know the shape of the owner's arms?

Looks like something that would've come out of the Ford lot. Very nice. Can you show us more pics?

Maybe we can all dump clips of our exhausts to give Brad a better idea of what they sound like. I'll go first. My vote goes to Flowmaster 40 Series. 302, long tube Hookers, X-pipe, and dual 40 Series mufflers. Should sound even better hooked up to a 351. https://www.instagram.com/p/BKQcdJtBUX2/

Wow Bob, to think something so seemingly insignificant could cause such a huge effect. And here I am thinking that mayyybe I can get away with leaving the torque converter misaligned in the meantime  :classic_rolleyes: lol 

Excellent suggestions from everyone. At this point my priority will be checking the flexplate/converter area as well as the starter. Odds are it’s in that area, as the rest of the engine hasn’t really been fiddled with much. May even get one of those stethoscopes at harbor freight to help me...

Oh right, I did forget to mention the oil pressure. I don't have an oil pressure gauge, so I removed one of the valve covers. Plenty of oil coming out. And yes midlife, no belt up front. Only thing spinning was the crank.

Alright y’all... I’m usually not too bad at diagnosing the car, but this one has me completely and utterly stumped. First let me go through everything I’ve done, as some context might help. This January, I pulled out the engine and changed the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, all the freeze...

I may be in the minority here, but I'm really diggin' that grille. 

I think the best way to tell if they're original is the yellowing on the pages. Based on how white the pages are, looks to be a reproduction. I have a well-preserved original and even on mine the pages are yellowed. And it has that distinct old book smell, too. Smell your manuals, y'all.

Curious about this as well. The reverse light in the center makes the taillight look ugly IMO. I tried that red repair tape once and it looked horrible. Plus it's tape.  All-red taillights would be on my parts shopping list for sure, even if it meant no white reverse lights (who needs those...

Back in the early 2000s when I first bought my coupe, I dumped the original standard wheel (in good shape, mind you) to put one of those stupid Grant wheels. Oh what a dumb kid I was. I regret that every time I see a picture of a standard wheel  :classic_sad:  which IMO are so simple they're pretty.

Lol and just like that we claimed the name in all of North America.