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Right, I'm wanting a more "cruise-worthy" setup. Maybe not run as hot as the "Q" (Texas summer heat), more bullet proof engine maintenance. I'll do what I can with the 250, and maybe look at a 300 swap later.

Ha, I think I probably have the "Lay's Potato chip syndrome". I want to have a backup stang, something that I can not feel bad about changing something that is already in nice condition. I've already got the Q code 4sp close to being "done". This 6-er would be different, hopefully doesn't...

I found this a little while ago... For the 1972 models, Ford built 6,401 convertibles. Of those, 565 convertibles were built with the "L" code 250-1V I-6. Of those, 356 had the "W" code C4 transmissions. All other 209 of them had the "1" code 3 speed manual. I'm looking at a stick and it...

Are the production numbers for 1972 L codes listed anywhere?

I was actually thinking of keeping the six, up hopping it up a bit. Yeah, I know, I'm a bit weird.

Ok, thanks. I'm mostly interested in suspension and drivetrain differences of the 6 cyl, options for engine upgrades, and possible auto trans swap.

I'm considering buying, would like to know the lowdown on parts compatibility and other things I may not be thinking about. Anyone here have one?

Still waiting for replies from my group, but a quick search found this https://www.kemahclassicautomotive.com/index.html You may also want to ask at Space City Mustangs, as they're located closer (we're pretty much on the north side of Houston). https://www.facebook.com/JSCMustangClub/...

Yep, been there a few times. I "think" there may be a shop in your area. I believe someone in our Mustang group moved there recently. Let me check and get back to you.

Billy Watson at Houston Classic Mustangs What part of town are you in?

Welcome from The Woodlands TX!

My shifter is in need of a rebuild. I've never done one, but I believe I can handle it. So fare, I've seen two different kits. One of them says it's specifically for Ford Mustang, parts specific, and also says no instructions, should only be done by someone familiar with rebuilding. Also...

The clips running across my brace will not stay put. Is there a way to secure them? Can the posts be heated and splayed out to grip better?

What is the adjustment procedure for getting the top to "fully" retract, and what is "fully" retracted? I don't believe mine is doing so, and I struggle to get the boot on.

My 72 has an ash tray light.

Pause at 34 and 35 seconds in.

Seems like someone with a 3D printer could do something close, no?

Have any pics?

I'd need one also.

Anyone know the story on this console?