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My approach would be a little different concerning the bubbles or blisters. I would literately drill out the blisters all the way through then fill plug with fiberall. It's apparent there's a issue with the fiberglass in that area and gouging sanding etc isn't working. It needs to be removed...

Awsome job Kurt ! :goodpost: Really enjoyed that :thankyouyellow:

I did a write up how to about 4 years ago on keeping debris out of the cowl Here it is again http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-to-keep-your-cowl-debris-free

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BL2731-16-Inch-Black-12-Inch/dp/B003NFJZ46/ref=lp_256270011_1_10?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481246305&sr=1-10...

Thats a pretty good base line to give you a idea of what it takes. Your material budget should be ok and I think after all the metal work and mud work your border line on whats going to be left for paint. SO a production type job is what you need to do. No stripping down to bare metal. Heres...

I think the real answer would depend on budget and what your being paid for the job. That will dictate which process to use. As a example if your being paid lets say 5k for the entire job including materials there's no way you would want to strip the car to bare metal unless of course you want...

Looks Fantastic Jim ! If you need help with the shift points setting up the controller give me a ring.

lollerz Ryan 1 kit is more than enough

No adhesive required yes it will stay in place

If you look in my thread here http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-glass-install Scroll down a bit there's a picture. I used self stick felt I wanna say around 1/16" -1/8" Thick ,don't remember where I got it but I've done quite a few cars over the years with it no issues. You can get...

You could do that it's just a lot of extra work. No a roof to quarter panel joint isn't designed to flex

Melt out lead with propane torch--weld seam shut the entire length especially into the quarter window area--epoxy prime--upol fiberal--then skim coat body filler. Thats a known weak spot on our cars and I've seen plenty with stress cracks at that joint, also where it meets the quarter window...

Heres how I modded mine

:goodpost:::thumb::::thumb::::thumb:: Great advice and can be done for a 1/6 the cost of a full frame. Both my cars have most of the above minus the I.R. and 6 point cage. Street or track front coilover kit -subframe connectors-properly sized sway bars-and of course the Bilsteins.

No don't raise your prices I could actually send stuff to you, keep you busy for ever and still make 40.00 a hour without getting my hands dirty AWSOME:D

Personally I don't even get involved with any rust repair unless I'm getting paid by the hour + materials I charge 75.00 per hour. Take it or leave it.

Find another upholstery guy I had mine stitch up new covers using my old ones as a pattern and carve new foam $400.00 for everything .

100% Correct- looking at the picture having the *** end of the car unsupported like that =problems. You need to jig the entire back end in the correct position Not just 4 jack stands at the rockers. The full qtr installs quite easily, Just takes rotating it to get the roof and window...

When you redo those areas I would use upol fiberal as your base filler then regular filler on top of that if you need more.

I've been using quite a bit of the u-pol products as of lately in the shop for "cheap budget work" and a select few products (mainly fillers fiberal ) for some of the higher end stuff. I like their stuff good value for the money. I see no reason not to use the dtm primer for that application...