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If you think snaking prebent lines around the drive train is tricky - just wait until you try bending your own. You'll be going in and out over and over. Buy yeah - unless you have an obvious crush in the hard lines, start looking for the blockage. Soft lines do eventually fail.

There are a number of kits out there in stainless or mild steel - pick your poison. Note that the lines will come folded, so you will need to straighten them when you install them. The line to the rear runs in the torque tube tunnel and up to and across the drivers side firewall. The right...

Have you tried asking Cobra? They might sell you bits and bobs.

It's not limited to reproduction hoods. Original hoods bow too. Usually they can be coaxed back into shape. In extreme cases, you will have to cut the welds to the inner structure, straighten everything, and then reweld. That's more labor than it's worth unless you have a car with documented...

The clock is actually a fairly rare option. I would consider sourcing a tach from eBay or somewhere and not converting the clock.

There isn't a separate lighting harness - It's all part of the engine bay harness.

You need to do more than that to make the switch - extracting oil, replacing o-rings, maybe hoses. The R-134A molecule is smaller than R-12 and can leak out of the older hoses.

Always ask for a photograph of the part and a sign with your name and the current date next to the part. Anybody legit will do it without question.

Looks like you need a plastic polish. Maybe one of the kits for restoring plastic headlamp lenses would work?

You could replace the gaskets.

Why do you need to replace it?

Look for purple part number tags. Anything with a D3 is a 73 part. D2 is 72, D1 is 71. If they all came from the same car, you likely need only one tag to establish the vintage.

I also have a heater box from a '71 if 71-429Mach1's parts don't work out.

How far do you need to go? How long did it take for the reservoir to run low? What do you hit if you pull out of the garage and the brakes don't work? Top off the brake fluid whatever you do.

If there is less brake fluid in it now, it had to go somewhere. Brake fluid will evaporate, so you would need to look pretty close to see if there is any residue or dirt rings left by the fluid. Or you could have had some air that somehow, magically, found it's way out of the calipers or slave...

Eastwood's stuff is pretty good, and it has gotten a lot better over the years, but if you want something that has to be done once and last for decades, you might want to look elsewhere. The reason I say that is that I have never seen a professional body shop use Eastwood products -...

Modern coatings are on the spendy side, that's a fact. At least the ones that last. And they are much less likely to kill you.

I'm cringing a little, but that's my problem. You are putting a LOT of time and money into this project. Skipping a fundamental step like proper paint preparation is kinda self defeating in the long run. Also, I would recommend following the manufacturer's directions when it comes to...

Always ask for a photo of the parts with a post-it note with your name and the current date in the photo. If they won't do that, pass.

Thanks - that helps!