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Tony, I was planning on converting one of my two cars from FMX to Manual, and this would entail removing the dash board to install the pedal assembly. I've removed the dash from a 2007 Nissan and it was not an easy task. What's the level of difficulty for the 71-73 dash w/AC? I could try the...

Thanks Hemikiller, My lower catch hook is toast on that side, i'll be on the lookout.

Anyone have experience laying down the 64-68 rear extension on a 71-73 ? I trimmed one to fit, and it seems like it will work nicely. Just seeing if anyone did the same, and had any problems fitting the back seats in later, etc.

Thanks. I read this post. It sounds like Epoxy Primer or Primer Sealer is the way to go.

It sounds like slapping on some Epoxy is still the best move here, even though it's not bare metal. Thanks

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Can you say what product would be on the less expensive side of the wetonwet options ? What "cheap" primer would do the job ?

Will do. Thanks Chuck

Awesome. I also considered spraying the hell out of them with the Rustoleum Farm and implement Red Oxide Primer (similar to original Ford Primer) and saving the POR15 for other problem areas since it was $170 a gallon.

What primer is suitable to spray directly on the E-coated floor pans ? I have no intention of stripping the floor pans to bare metal to coat with Epoxy. Looking for suggestions on how to get a few decent coats of primer, then rubberized coating on the street side of the panel. I have POR15...

@tony-muscle Did a comprehensive write up on how to repair the cowl from inside the car without removing the cowl or the heater core. I'm probably going to try this method, since my leak is very small https://7173mustangs.com/threads/my-method-for-cowl-repair.30508/#post-331697

I appreciate this post. I probably won't ever recoup what I'm spending on these two mustangs as well, but we do it for the magic. Here's a few stories from the last 8 months since we moved into this new neighborhood. One of my across the street neighbors saw the rusty brown stang and came over...

Thanks. From what I've read, 89k or not, I should be replacing the nylon timing gear and water pump right away.

Thanks. I am planning on restoring this back to original Mach1 Argent Blue with one exception.

@Hemikiller , thanks I picked up a 3/8” / 10mm belt sander today at Harbor freight similar to that air file based on @Bentworker's earlier suggestion. I'm going to try to and sand through the welds from the trunk side of the tail panel first and see if that is easiest. I'm in a situation where I...

Amazon just delivered my spot cutter set. I'll try this and post results.

I like this idea, but I think i'm having trouble seeing the spot welds on the tail panel side, and Also I would be needing to remove the brackets on the tail panel first to do this method, but looks really effective and easy.

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I got an NOS tail panel so I'm not too worried about light fitment.

I also saw a video where you lightly tap a plasma cutter on the spot weld and it melts it away quick.

this is what I ordered, I think it's spring loaded but not sure

I'm looking for the procedure or tips on how to cleanly remove the original Tail panel, without damaging the quarter. etc. The spot welds seem to disappear on the upper left side, and I'm not sure if some of it was lead-ed in from the factory. I have a plasma cutter if that's of any use to...