Does anyone have experience with the TRQ fuel tank at Amazon ? Looks like a good deal, I'm thinking about snaggin one since I already have straps and filler neck.
Thank you dawson for the response from me resurrecting your 2 year old unanswered thread. lol
I will see if I can find a cheap original used one for $50, and if no luck I might go for the NPD shorter one 6 inch instead of 8.
Yes, that's what I intend to do. I just want to make sure and get the right carb the first try, I don't want to be troubleshooting through a bunch of different setups.
Great feedback Hemikiller, I will look out for a stock 28 spline yolk. that small difference of driveshaft length won't be a big deal, even if the machine tolerance is exact, I would just need the yolk to be roughly a quarter of an inch shorter to fit my stock shaft.
I prefer not to use...
1. I'm putting a 351C 4V D0AE engine from a 70 Mach 1, into a 1972 fastback. Should I be using the 1971-73 "Q" code air cleaner ?
2. I am switching from the stock FMX to Toploader RUG-BJ1. Will my existing driveshaft work, or will I be needing longer one ?
3. how can find the original...
I was lucky enough to snag a RUG-BJ1 this morning to put behind the 351C D0AE, so I will be selling the RUG-AR1 (torino/fairlane). Now, I will be trying to hunt down the correct Hurst shifter rod/levers.
After discussing with member 71fast, this dangling light is 72-73 specific and should plug into the "alternator" hole of the cluster. See diagram below.
yea Midlife, case closed. Thanks
In a pitch black garage I do see the cluster lights now. Very dim, but I'll maybe get some LED's later
Thanks again for everyone's help, the headlight switch replacement was the fix.
check out my old headlight switch I pulled today
I got the new headlight switch same day from Oreilly's.
Installed the new headlight switch.
I am definitely now getting 12v on both sides of the #3 fuse, but still no cluster lights
(except the turn signals and red mustang horse light)...