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For the hood with the air scoops. You should have the flat wire springs. They are the heavy duty version.

I've seen the black ones at Carlisle all ford. I believe the Boss parts guy sells them. Usually run 20.00. I'll try to find the phone number. The name of the vendor was Semo Mustang. I've seen their parts on eBay.

I believe they are Repo's available at NPD. Same for 351W, 351C and 68 on 302's.

1976 Mustang II

Fifteen years ago when dashes and quarters were not available my dash pad had a couple wide cracks in it. I ground down the high spots and applied regular bondo over a eight by twelve area. Sanded that smooth with 180 grit paper. After that it needed something to look similar to the rest of the...

Trident1, I wouldn't let this flex freek you out to much. I've worked on many convertibles over the last thirty years and if it's not rusting you can deal with this. For one don't open or close the doors if the gaps don't look right, you will just be chipping paint. If you must open the doors...

My dad had a 70 Thunderbird in the day. Your color appears to be the color of our car. I don't know they called it but if I were naming paints then it would have been "midnight blue metallic" it was real dark but distinguishable from black.

I have a spare. Looks exactly like the above pictures. I'll do $20 including shipping.

I believe the 65-66 cars adjusted their Caster by shimming the upper control arm. Perhaps you could add shim on the front bolt and push the top ball joint rearward.

The front end is a separate piece. It's about 18" long-thats about 12" on the lowest vertical section, then it makes a 45° bend and runs about 6" until it fits into the upper section. They are the same on all models. Coupe, fastback and convertible all same part.

Cut and shortening could be an option.

I had the something happen on my upper control arm's grease fitting. Had all the same thoughts you mentioned. Replaced the zerts to cure the problem.

Are you referring to the hole next to the light switch? It could be a park or belts light. Seems odd to have both on one car, but who knows. Could it be a park light socket?

I have a nice set for sale. They are from a 71.

Part of the VIN is stamped on the inner shock towers under the fender. And on the engine. You'll see year,plant,and consecutive unit number.

That was pretty clever how you modified the front floor section. Sliding the ribs outward and using the outer piece as the filler panel. Well worth the labor, for the $ savings.

I've done what EBStang recommended for many years prior to restoring. It worked very well. A little caulk helped hold it in place when normal service occurs.

If you have a meter? I'd check primary coil voltage. Just make sure the power supply is there. 12 volts on starting then drops to 9 or so when in run position.

When you say immediately. Do you mean as soon as you finish starting it and letting the key go? Or how many seconds?

I see you both have Viper tires. Hope that's not normal for that brand. My experience has found that failures that circle the tire are from overheating (possible under inflation), and spot failures are from flat spots(sitting too long with car weight on them.