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I did pretty much the same, cut letters from a inner tube type sheet rubber. Then glued it to wood block. Same results.

Correct finish is painted Argent. But, you want to plate those pits won't be a problem. I had a 65 conv one plated and it looked like yours, they fixed all that and chromed it for 100$

A71:=January 7, 71,second shift F161:=June 16, 71, second shift They are month,date,year,shift.

If going up crooked, the circled parts in the picture are typically missing or broken.

I've had a couple sets rechromed. Paul's in northeast U.S. did a set. Royal Silver in Norfolk VA did another. They were about $200-$225 to rechromed a pair. Both did great work. Paul's was done in 2003, Royal in 2011, they both still look freshly done.

+1 Don, tires and wheels are made with closer tolerances than thirty years ago. They will probably be fine with out the secondary weights.

Since, carb spray (do you really mean starting fluid) doesn't make a difference. I'm leaning towards a electrical issue. If you really mean carb spray(like for cleaning) I don't believe it will run on that, use starting fluid.

See the two attached photos. One is a 1965 Mustang toploader shifter, you can see the alignment hole right below the pivot. I believe the other photo to be a 71-73 shifter for Mustang and Torino. The alignment hole is basically in the same place but it does not extend through the housing. It is...

I bought that fitting at O'Reilly's. Back room accessed.

If you go with your preferred, be super careful with the thickened oil/sludge, I have a friend that allowed some to reach the crankcase, it clogged to pick up screen starting a new list of problems.

+1, on using a real guage to verify what pressure you are really getting. You will never have that comfort feeling if you don't. I install a tee in the line when I'm in testing phase. Once I'm familiar with what's "normal", I'll take out the under hood guage and plug the side of the tee.

When riveting, because you need this to be very flat. I typically knock the draw pin out and shape the rivet with a few punches then hammer the rivet flat holding the two pieces.

"M/Y FR" probably means month/year from, it probably refers to the previous title. I would think it indicates that the car has been titled twice.

The quarter trims are stainless. You can buff them. I use the White bar rouge and a 3400rpm buffer.

When I did mine about 15 years ago, I used the liquid electrical coating. They sell it next to the electrical tape at Advance Auto. They came out nice and haven't come apart.

Try to tighten the clamp to see if the leak stops.

Take special review of Jeff's pictures. You'll see that the headliner also runs under the side glass weatherstripping retainer.

I sand blast mine then, spray with pospho treatment. I buy it at home depot in the paint section. It's green liquid. Spray on wipe off after a few minutes. Use on hood hinges, shock tower caps, power steering bracket and other natural unpainted parts.

Just last week I polished out scratches on a 65 fastback rear glass. The materials were purchased from Eastwood a few years back for some smaller scratches. The main scratch on the 65 was pretty deep and about 12" long. It came out completely but it took every green, blue and orange disc I had...

On the 6566 years there is another piece of metal that runs inside the rear frame rail. Its a right angle piece roughly 1"*2.5, and it's spot welded along the lenght. I don't believe the replacement has it.