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The top chart comes from the shop manual for that car. The lower drawing appears to be put together after the fact. There may be some way that there both correct. I'd use the shop manual.

You could run the top to the drip rails and under the windshield side and upper trims. There are vinyl top suppliers on the internet that offer universal cut to size trim that you could run across the back.

I have a set in Virginia.

They make a set of sockets for removing these nuts. Got mine at Sears. A set of three flip sockets that have a reverse twist broad thread like an easy-out. Probably cost $20.00 for set.

To remove the knob from any of the switch shafts, just clamp the shaft in a vise about 1/2" of the shaft and knob exposed, use a claw hammer to pry knob off.

I use both. I spray the dark first, completely covering the part, then while it's still wet I mist it from about 30" away. I mist it in to get a variety of colors and textures. I have had good luck with the process.

If you do find the build sheet. It will most likely be discolored or stuck in place with body sealer. Use oil and grease remover to release it. Afterwards, I use a baking pan with about a 1/2" of "oil and grease remover" to float out the stains. I usually let it soak several days. No need to...

Drilling a repo bumper could be considered also.

They are the same between the two style hoods. It's easier with the hood off.

Your upright and extender are the same on my standard grill 73. Can you post pictures of the end of the latch.? I may have all or part of the parts needed.

I use a timing light to check for spark. I move it from wire to wire. If you have spark on some, you are getting someware. I believe it narrows it down your distributor cap, wires, or plugs. Cap check first.

No. Headlight grounds would not make any difference. I'd follow the positive coil wire back to the switch. Probe the wire along the way, even with your harness work its still possible to have a poor connection. The more likely problem now I think is a wire connector not made at all or a block...

I should have one in Virginia. I can't verify until next week. Out of town at a show.

By supplying 12 volts to the coil and some plugs are firing, we are getting somewhere. If some fire and some don't. I'd suspect distributor cap or plug wires loose. Your main problem still exist though, that is the lack of 12 volts coming from the ignition switch. I believe the switch is...

If I'm following properly your engine shuts off when in run position. This question applies to that issue. The point side of the coil is part of the grounded side. But at least you have the 12 volts on the + side. Let's be clear though. Are you saying that you turn the key to run, let go of it...

Sometimes when the large wire lugs are secured/tightened the post spins within the plastic housing of the solenoid. I've seen it a few times where it could have your symptoms.

You can measure the distance on your inner quarter plastic cover. Measure from the panels bottom rear bolt mount to the slot in the panel where the belt comes through.

It's a "Y" pipe for single exhaust. An ."H" pipe for dual exhaust. Check NPD catalog for detailed views.

I insisted we drive my future wife's car from our wedding in 78. I didn't want my 73 messed up by well wishers. It was a good thing, the shaving cream stained her Mopar paint.

There should be a number stamped in the front left foot under the solenoid. It's not the part number. But it can get you to it.