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From all the reading I have done about the Duraspark I/II Ignition it was a factory Ford high power ignition. The very reason it is a common replacement for the points ignition on many classic Ford vehicles. I have had alot more luck with OEM factory upgrades as far as reliability goes. As was...

I went the Pertronix Ignitor 1 with Flamethrower Coil and it is totally worth it on the cheap. Easy to install in the car no need to remove the distributor. Runs, starts and drives better all around. Mister 4x4 is correct though after some reading the Duraspark(Better More Complicated) or...

While a turbo has a good chunk less parasitic loss than many roots or centrifugal superchargers it is hardly free power. Generally speaking alot more complicated with all the plumbing involved also.

So you want to be one of those guys also. Continue on the lil OCD trip and everyone else will continue to not care about the difference between a motor and an engine. lollerz

IMO that sounds like begging for a stroked out late model 351w with efi converted to mass air. Last years they used them in the Ford trucks or vans I think is where you can find a donor. I know guys making awesome power from the mid 90's Ford Lightnings. Only problem is switching to efi brings...

If you want to be one those guys. Most every one else doesn't care who coined it. But the 351c was definitely a small block ford by block size measurements...........lollerz

Yall need to spend some time over on the Corral or with Woody over on sbftech.com. The 400hp mark isn't that hard these days if you throw some cash at it with the 302 but keep in mind that to get that magic number you sacrifice with a cam running high into the RPM to get that number. I do agree...

I have to side with the SBF. In recent years with proliferation of good stroker kits they have proved to be solid performers power adder or not. Also keep in mind the kind of car we drive. If you plan on going in a straight line then the big block to me is a good choice. Cheap and easy power...

Yes the 95 amp alternator is awesome but honestly I would recommend the 130 if you are planning to run electric fans and stereo equipent. I had no interest in those upgrades on my car so the 95 was fine. I have a spare am meter in the garage I have to send off to rocket man to get converted...

Not only that but tests have shown that the Boss 351 engine was most likely the top performing factory small block of the era. But like usual they are just hating on the fat body pony car.

I got my Edelbrock Heads used for $685 loaded with ford racing roller rockers. Hard to justify cast iron heads these days. After machining and rebuild you might be in for a little less than a set of used aluminum heads. Most modern aluminum heads will run circles around the swap on OEM options...

Sent ya message about the Bar.

I would rather pay for a whole door if it fits well than a skin. Skins rank high in the list of the most pain in the *** install I have done. I cant stand skins because they only fix a certain portion and it is never just the outside skin that is rusted out.

Programmable shift points are awesome. SCT PRP that I tune my HD F150 with allows awesome control of the 4r100 in it. Its amazing how much you can gain by tuning the transmission these days.

Thanks for the knowledge I hadn't considered the sidewall issues with turning. But makes since. So I guess those are out so I will continue looking for a pair of 15x8 for the rears to go with the 2 I already have.

Various kinds of paints over the years. My father has done autobody painting on the side as far back as I can remember. So assisting in the garage was a normal thing. We painted my Mustang back in the 80's with IMRON if that gives you an idea. Kinda wish I understood how toxic the crap was...

Same here as long as it can be done local powder has always been dirt cheap. My motorcycle rims cost $120 for both to be coated. That included prep work and they look awesome still today. Its shipping that can quickly shoot up the price. Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk

Powder Coating hands down as far as I am concerned. In every case I have ever dealt with my powder coated parts have long outlasted the painted parts. For resistance to corrosion and chipping/flaking. Motorcycle rims, car parts, odd jobs all turned out great. But that is all based on the powder...

A 165/80R15 25.4" vs 215/70R14 25.9" so it is a smidge smaller than the front tires on it now. Probably the closest I can get in a DOT compliant tire. Might look funny as it set now but I plan to lower the front about an 1" or so in the future. So wheel gap shouldn't be to much of an issue.

I actually have 18" Bullets on my HD right now. One of the reasons that I haven't jumped for a set of the torque thrust wheels. But they have way to much offset to fit the stang without a good size spacer. That and the tires are huge 295/45.