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Yep, I found that out when I painted mine. I personally went the earlier 71-2 mix. I personally love it against flat black.

I redid my complete suspension @ a year ago. I personally wouldn't change a thing. This car drives like a smaller sports model. I didn't spend a fortune either. I have a 73 so the front bumper had to be swapped to eliminate 90+lbs of bad ballast that far in front of the tires. Plus battery...

When talking 500hp or more in a normally aspirated motor I'd say street ability doesn't come to mind. If you have a 351 and a 4speed, you'd be throwing money away to swap to anything else. I'd stick with what I've got. You can restore it with some goodies to get it going and have a decent resale...

Definitely the stock measurements they claim to be .650. It's a spring I guess it's not a perfect measurement. I still like the 1" drop springs because they are 720. then add a 3/8" spacer to bring it back up to stock ht. I personally removed 200lbs from the front of my car, ditched the 73 front...

My old 50 Dodge was the same. 1 full coil made a huge drop, I had to go 1 full coil because it was clocked. So, I added a small spacer. If you were to measure the ht. from the tallest point to where you actually cut it, I'll bet it was @ 2" If you ended up with @ a 4" drop.

I had the factory tach configuration in mine, and it didn't receive the correct signal after swapping out ignitions. I used an MSD tach adapter to give it the correct signal. You are better off having one of the guys modify yours on this site. It will look neater less wiring and - an extra box.

Yep we seem to like shutting down our own mfg here in the US to please the climate zealots. Which in turn leads to a larger carbon footprint by shipping it across the sea. They love that cheap labor, laxed quality control and lack of qualified workers. This Mustang build has really opened my...

I always check their preassembly anyway. Ye it's kinda obvious that only one side is clocked in the pic I sent. That's what I get for having did a 50 Dodge recently. They were clocked. Anyway, I have yet to see stock rear leafs last 50 yrs without flattening out some. I went with the stock...

I was referring to the photos he was sharing, those springs are too long for even a station wagon application. Ha that's why I rebuilt my upper control arms instead of buying rebuilt ones. The quality of the old steel. On a spring who knows what China is sending us.

Yep, those do not look like any std Mustang front spring heights w/or without power steering. I personally wouldn't put a .650 spring in when there's @ 4 mfg's selling .720 thicker shorter springs. I personally went with a drop spring then brought it back up to close to stock height w/ 3/8"...

You shouldn't have to cut Moog parts like that. Are you sure your upper control arms are centered? It will never align correctly. Also, on the 1/2 spring mod I recommend 1 full coil (not 1/2 ) since the springs usually rest in lil pockets both top and bottom. It's been a year if I remember...

You did good managing to get those tall springs in. Next time choke up on your tool so it doesn't have to work so hard. I used large nuts for spacers. I did this so I didn't have to cut the top of the tool off, which would limit it from compressing taller springs in the future. Your stock...

73 Q code Mach 1

Or worse, forget you have the key on for over 5 min and burn up one of those $100 Pertronix modules. The money I spent on those Pertronix modules on my GTO I could have purchased a new MSD distributor.

I honestly don't see how it could not vapor lock like that on a hot motor in the summer. Have you tried it since you adjusted the line off the intake and water hose. Also, the only carbs that function on 2 1/2 psi are prehistoric Strombergs and Holley 94's. Yes @ 6 psi. at7+ that carb won't...

You can do a quick gauge check by pulling the wire off the sender and grounding it to a clean metal surface. Turn the ignition key to the “on” position and watch the fuel gauge. If it moves to the “full” position, then the gauge is working correctly. If it doesn't move, there may be a problem...

Ha ... that little aluminum pc was just aviator snips. It was harder to cut the slice down the pc of rubber hose to use as edge guards. I did make a bracket to hold the power steering cooler up where it used to be mounted on the ac compressor. Apparently, they make 2 different types of coolers...

These Mach 1's look cool from the rear.

For this concaved (slightly curved) surface my hand became a squeegie for 1/2 of it.

I peeled the backing off and sprayed everything with a water bottle. That way I could afford to move them @ if they don't apply correctly. Try not to get the backing paper wet, it's flimsy.