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  1. full (16).jpg

    full (16).jpg

    Time for wet sanding and buffing. It was nice to know after I finished the news was talking about a high amount of static electricity. Ye Oklahoma is infamous for it's dust. always plan on wet sanding, esp. if you don't have a "real" down draft paint booth. I have zero runs though.
  2. full (15).jpg

    full (15).jpg

    I 1st painted the lower part of the car flat black, then taped it off. It should "pop" w/ the Mach 1 graphics. I'll be using 73 decals on it.
  3. full (14).jpg

    full (14).jpg

    It seemed convenient to clear coat the bumper w/ the car. It now matches the aluminum wheels, which were work themselves. I had to buy a new center rubber strip for the bumper.
  4. full (13).jpg

    full (13).jpg

    Primer & basecoat are no problem. I'll need to set up a visqueen (makeshift booth for clear coat) I scuffed it the next day, set up the booth added the 2nd coat of base, then added 2 coats of clear. I wish I could have added a 3rd, too much crap floating @ in the air. A real down draft booth someday
  5. Paul M

    Bodywork 71-73 Mustang

    https://7173mustangs.com/media/albums/body-work-71-73-mustang-mach-1.96/
  6. full (12).jpg

    full (12).jpg

    Needless to say, I put in a solid month of this bondo madness. This car was a mess. The good ol' boys were a play'n Dukes of Hazzrd with the damn thing again.
  7. full (11).jpg

    full (11).jpg

    This fender was an amazing fit for this car, since it came with the hood & I knew it lined up nicely next to it. I'm kinda picky with lines on cars. It's a 73 fender so the notch had to be modified to match the 71 fender I'm using on the other side, since I'm going with the lighter 71-72 bumper.
  8. Paul M

    Time to rebuild the FMX?

    That sludge build up with some metalic particles is your friction discs worn out. The seals may be old and brittle limiting their ability to function properly, however, you aren't going anywhere with no friction on the discs, the plates between them will be severely blued. I'm not familiar with...
  9. Paul M

    Some help with windshield install

    That doesn't look right, however, since you are missing so many of them, I'd keep the 2 that are close together. Here's what mine looked like before I put the window in. Are there any tabs on the sides? You may want to try to weld on a tab to hold another one on the side though. I'd start by...
  10. IMG_9186.JPG

    IMG_9186.JPG

    Most of the bondo needed on this was to fill a crevice ( small dent ) that ran along the bottom. If I noticed it earlier I would have dolly'd it out... less bondo
  11. IMG_9178.JPG

    IMG_9178.JPG

    Another spot that needed patience to wait 5 min between the 2nd barrage of tack welds in a small area & a damp rag to avoid heat warp.
  12. IMG_9173.JPG

    IMG_9173.JPG

    Works for me
  13. IMG_9155.JPG

    IMG_9155.JPG

    Template: I looked at another fender to see what shape the factory notch was at the bottom. I almost forgot a bolt goes in there
  14. IMG_9170.JPG

    IMG_9170.JPG

    Yep, I added primer, but had to sand the primer off the top surface for the tack welds
  15. IMG_9166.JPG

    IMG_9166.JPG

    Ye, I wire wheeled some exfoliation & sand blasted in there, then treated it to Rustmort (phosphoric acid)
  16. IMG_9148.JPG

    IMG_9148.JPG

    Now for a better view of what I already knew was in there.
  17. IMG_9138.JPG

    IMG_9138.JPG

    You'd be surprised how much work it took to clean out this area. The corners of these fenders trap dirt and moisture there and it becomes a mess from the inside out.
  18. IMG_9070.JPG

    IMG_9070.JPG

    The metal holds the shape, I used a lil' bondo for a few crevices.
  19. IMG_9059.JPG

    IMG_9059.JPG

    tacked in place and ground down
  20. IMG_9049.JPG

    IMG_9049.JPG

    A lil' whittling away w/ a die grinder and it fit nicely
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