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So I used the Lares kit with just the rubber disk in it to do my rebuild. Here are the problems. 1) The Rag joint listed for sale from vendors is for 1970 and earlier. They had I slightly smaller steering box side coupler. So it will NOT work on a 71 through 73. 2) Unless something has...

The Argent on the outer ring is correct for original.

I missed the boat. I finally got everything approved on my end, the wife said yes, I picked up the phone to tell the guy I would take it and there was a text that arrived that minute saying he just sold it to a friend. I figure that was divine intervention if anything was.

This is an interesting area for discussion. I put NOS stripes on my car when I restored. I found that the Ford parts had the backing sheets cut to aid in installation. For instance, the "Mach 1" badges on the front fenders had the backing paper cut to align with the trailing edge of the...

That is a Grabber Blue Mach. Looks a lot like mine exept for the console clock.

I spray with purple power, scrub with a push broom and rinse.

So now that you have the "cool" heads, yep, ask yourself what your goals are. I am set up like Sheriff41. 351C with quench chamber 4V heads, adjustable valve train, roller cam ground to Boss 351 Specs by Cam Research, an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake that reduces the intake port size and a...

Could be a fastback.

Point taken. My steps are assuming you will loose the charge from the compressor when you remove the oil fill plug. If the service valves are set properly to isolate the lines, then the only thing that should discharge is the compressor. Of course I am unsure of your first question as to...

I screwed mine up, but here is what you can try. Turn the service valves to isolate the hose system. This means turning them all the way clockwise against the hose seat. You then have the compressor out of the loop. Be sure to follow fill level instructions for the compressor. After you are...

Yep a Kansas City DSO. The original owners sent their three kids to Kansas University in it. Sot the first one had the original paint and the other 2 got a fresh paint job on it to go to school. Midwest winters, teen drivers, and obviously a few boo boos. Notice the crooked exhaust pipes...

Yep, I got her from the original owner with 2 studded snow tires, one Cooper and the original Firestone Wide Oval spare on it.

Over 20 years. I tore her down in about 2000. Then I had three more children, got my MBA, coached many kids sports, moved once and finally got her done.

Here you go. The car as purchased in 1982 for $600. Then as she is today.

I had a lot of problems with mine backfiring. You said you went Pertronix, so I won't bore you with the condenser details. Mine ended up being a defective coil. I had an original coil, and after reviewing the symptoms I decided to go with a new coil. No backfiring since I did that. kcmash

I would reach out to Motor City Mustang. Mike can probably make you a deal on some decent parts. kcmash

I think you need to take the regulator out no matter what. The worst parts of the job are removing the door panel and re-aligning the window. The rest is 15 minutes of turning bolts. kcmash

I learned to put the rear of the car up as high as you can. A 460 and Toploader will be workout on the load leveler. With the rear of the car high, the core support is easier to clear. Kcmash

What about the PII. Is it worth the changes? Does that one give the tach problems? Or should I Just go P1 and drive it?