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Don't forget about the steering column firewall seal. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d1zz-3513-a.html

https://shafersclassic.com/i-23898775-1971-1973-ford-mustang-power-steering-line.html

Shafer Classics...

Well, after all kinds of shows and cruises, probably a 100 miles on the car, I took her to a Snake Saturday parade this last weekend. aside from the pump noise, no problems at all. Then near the end of the parade route, a thump, and my power steering is gone. What do you know, this newer hose...

So If I understand your question correctly, yes, the nose trim can stay on the fender when it goes on and off the car. Many people take the headlight bucket off with the front fender also because a few less bolts need to be removed that way. There should not be any seam sealer around the shock...

So I pulled my original motor out today and added some gear oil to the front and rear bearings since it was on the workbench. It ran fine for about 20 minutes on the vice at 12v. I also checked the Rock Auto number I ordered. It is the Four Seasons 35562 motor, which is the flanged blower...

Tony, I was at that point too. Then I realized I could not get a wrench on the 12 point bolt head to tighten it against the splines on the steering box or the steering column. kcmash

Looks like someone was not paying attention. When you order a Cleveland gasket set it is naturally kitted for the 2v Cleveland, meaning no valley pan for intake side and the smaller exhaust gaskets. The bolt holes will line up, but for those not familiar with the 2v versus 4v port size...

Looks like Billw69 has first dibs, but if he passes I want the rear interior panels with the PW cutouts please. kcmash

Let me know the price on the interior quarter panels that are cut for power windows please. Kcmash

Another area to check is your strut bushings at the crossmember. I didn’t mine correctly torqued after restoration and had a significant clunk. Much better when torqued to spec. If it has not been restored, the bushings up there could be rotted or degraded. Good luck! Kcmash

This company took a pic of my car when I stopped by. They use this as an advertisement now.

Can any of you experienced painters tell me how much base coat is needed for a 71 Urethane bumper? I have a partial can, maybe half a pint of base coat. I need to strip my bumper down and refinish. How much is needed to coat a front bumper? kcmash

Interesting on Grabber Blue. Mine is an original Grabber Blue/Argent 71 Mach 1. Paint code is J. The same Paint color code of J was used in the 1970 model year, but those had a black accent color. For 72, the color code was 3F for Grabber Blue, and for 73, there were no "Grabber" colors...

Replacing the lower shaft and the rag joint with a non-tilt lower will work with no issues. I have confirmed that with a tilt column expert.

I had a friend who had an original back in the early 80's. It had the Mach 1 hood in all white, no contrasting colors. The Flat hoods had the color treatment. My friends was not a Ram Air car, but remember, Ram-Air only came on 2 barrel cars after 71.

Today? I drove it like I stole it! Sunny and 70 in KC, so I couldn't resist.

Looks like it to me! Not sure if the tip was originally solid, or had a counterbore. Let me know how much per piece when you are done.

Here ae the rivet dimensions that I was able to get.

Vikingsandpintos you are correct. You can change out the lower shaft and use a standard rag joint. Another option is to change to a coupler versus the rag joint. Conversions are available. kcmash