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The big Ford old style is correct for Versailles, but that housing is nothing like my Versailles one. It looks more like Econoline van vintage to me.

Dang, you guys are harsh. I bought that car and thought it was a bargain. Until I noticed the remote mirror knob was missing. Then the deal was off. I told the seller maybe for $51,495, but they wouldn't budge, so I passed.

Might slow your car down, but would something like SBC valve cover clamps work? If you happen to have a ruined pan you could cut the rails and double them up.

If it were myself, I would replace the saddles while you are there. The more expensive roller ones are worth it IMHO. Don't forget an alignment after reassembly.

Factory stuff is OK for normal driving. However, I myself will never again use nor recommend factory spring perches with rubber bushings. The difference in ride quality using roller perches was that great for me. Although easy, the upper arms and perches are the biggest hassle to deal with...

Is it still points ignition? I have a first gen Duraspark ignition that did the same thing. Replaced the ignition module and all has been great for a couple of years now.

Are you talking about the part that bolts to the rag joint? If so, it just pulls out as it is a shaft that fits inside another shaft.

Is it on correctly or 180 off?

I got the harness, distributor, and ignition module from a donor car and grafted it in. The ignition module is mounted on the driver's side front apron close to the radiator support, same factory location as the donor. These non-oem modules last a couple of years before dying. Has anyone mounted...

Replace the alternator with a 3G and do away with it.

I did the same, left the factory radio and dash speaker inplace. Added a bluetooth compatable amp with a couple 6x9 speakers in the rear tray. Factory stuff still works and I can pair to the amp until my ears bleed.

My worthless .02 cent advice, even if going all factory OEM, spend the money for some roller bearing spring perches. You will not regret it.

I seem to recall an article long ago about a Boss 302 with and without a shaker, and there was a difference in rear wheel HP, though slight. All "Ram Air" Ford designs are basically cold air intakes, although the Galaxie Thunderbolts that had one headlight removed may have been more of a ram air.

On the cheap, soak it in white vinegar overnight then wire brush, clean, prime, paint semi gloss black.

Personally I do not like to bench bleed as I do not have a bench vise. I prefer to bolt in the master and use the cheapo hose kit to bleed it on the car using the brake pedal. Same process as bench bleeding just easier for me to do.

My recommendation is pull it, clean it, reseal it. They are very easy to do. I have done a few and always get kits from the site below. They also have a bolt that will keep the plunger centered while bleeding. Match your casting number on the valve for the correct kit...

The current ones have just a hole for a grommet and push-in breather cap. You could notch them for the factory caps but the factory covers have stops cast into the bottom so the cap can only turn so far.

I am a bigger fan of upgrading to the 3G alternator with internal regulator, but for period correct car that is cool.

I replaced the original with a larger 6.25 diameter OEM Boss pulley. The steering felt over-boosted before, but is much better now.

If you are going to stay with a mechanical pump, for the 302 I would recommend the Carter M4009 with integrated fuel filter.