Search results

Whoa! Disconnect the positive side of the battery? Never do this until the negative side has been disconnected!!! If you inadvertently have your wrench touch the car body, you'll have a dead short and start welding immediately. Never, ever, disconnect the positive side of the battery before...

Entire connector has to be replaced. If from valence light, probably have to replace entire light assembly.

The 7123 dash clusters are plastic and if a post touches the housing, there is no short. The problem of gauge shorting is most prominent on 69/70 dash cluster housings with the circuit cards.

When a gauge pegs out, that means that the line going to the sending unit has inadvertently been grounded. Check for pinched wires behind the console and if not there, underneath the car. A quick check is to remove the sending unit connector and see if it still pegs. If it does, then the wire...

I have never seen a fusible link in a tail section, ever.

Dang...I was hoping these were the fuzzy handcuff style of shackles.😔

Drum brakes have less drag; drag racers prefer drum brakes.

Not sure what this has to do with the original post query...

If radio goes out at the same time as instrumentation, then there's a problem at the ACC feed to the fuse box and an intermittent cut-out. Could also be at the ignition switch, where BAT is transferred to ACC power. None of the main ACC power feeds have circuit breakers, but some accessories may.

At least they aren't scammed postings!

I don't think solid bumpers were available in 73...

Nor will it be a quick turn-around, according to everyone that orders from them...

I use an old pants belt: works just fine!

Speaking of good eyesight, how come no one has mentioned that these are Osbourne assembly manuals, not Carpenters?

It's the equivalent of spam telephone calls. I still get anywhere from 3-10 a day... Why anyone would follow-up on a cold-call from some business is beyond comprehension.

I know the owner of the third car (convertible). He's very happy with the auction.

I can barely shave myself without problems; I can't imagine trying to shave a door handle! Where's my styptic pencil?

Yes, so long as you measured it with the wire disconnected. Even if it was connected, it should be battery voltage. You probably have a bad starter solenoid.

The ammeter on all Mustangs from 66 through 73 barely move in the best of conditions. If yours deflects ever so slightly, then it is working. To test, key in ACC, headlights on, doors open, foot on brake, cigarette lighter on and maybe it will deflect a half needle's width. Consider that...

You'll need the alternator harness with 4 pins used. If so, you could have a bad bulb, a broken wire somewhere, a bad ignition switch (proof-out circuit), a broken trace on the circuit card, bad contact at the voltage regulator, a bad voltage regulator, or bad contact at the dash cluster connector.