1971 Boss 351 R code

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M9Powell

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Hi, I have the opportunity to buy a so-called 71 R code parts car. The car is very rusty & has no title. No interior, not much wiring. But it does have the # matching engine block with heads,no intake. Also has the # matching toploader. Maybe I'm crazy, but given the rarity of this car I'm of the opinion that there is no such thing as a 71 R code parts car & that it should be restored. What are my possibilities of obtaining a title? The guy that has it used parts off it to restore his nice car & now wants to sell what's left. Not much there but a very rusty body, a long block & a tranny. If I do get it, I wouldn't be doing it for the money but rather to build one the way I want it too replace the one I was forced too sell back in the early 90s. I have a factory Boss 351 intake but it is for a Holley not a 4300 D. I'd want it stock appearing but I'd run a Holley, roller cam & headers. I don't care about the rev limiter. If I could get an inoperative rev limiter fairly cheap I'd put it on for appearances. I know how to do all the mechanical work (though I'm getting up in years) but I'm no body man.
 
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Sheriff41

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Check out the cost of Boss 351-specific parts you may need to replace. They can be pricey, to say the least. If you're up to it and determined, it can be done. As for the title, contact your state's motor vehicle department and explain what you want to do to them. They should be able to tell you if you need a title, or if can get a bonded title for the car. State's vary on their title rules. Also, will the seller provide a bill of sale? That may be required by the state, also.
 

rvrtrash

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Depending on how rusty "very rusty" is, if you don't do body work, you'd probably be better off buying a complete car that needs a little love and making it the way you want. If you have to have a body shop replace floors, cowl, fenders, etc., you could be in it $25K before you start bolting stuff back in. Where I live, body shops don't want to even touch restorations because they make more money on crash repair and can turn them in a few days.
 

M9Powell

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Thanks, well I really can't think of many high $ boss specific parts it needs. I'm going to run a factory D1ZX something or other Holley pattern intake & a factory 428 CJ Holley that I already have & headers out of preference, so that's 3 high $ parts I don't need. I think they repro all the Boss 351 suspension. Help me think what am I not thinking of? The rev limiter doesn't mean much too me.
 

M9Powell

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It needs floors, Quarters, taillight panel just off the top of my head, probably more. But keep in mind we are talking about a 70,000 $ car if restored correctly. Which I am not going to exactly do, but pretty close.
 

mjlan

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I would look into how your state handles lost titles. Normally I wouldn't worry too much but with a desirable car who knows why the original title is gone. The fact that the #'s matching block and trans is there is good, to me that means its less likely that somebody rebodied another car to a Boss. Is the dash panel and VIN still with the car?
 

Don C

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When you go talk to the DMV I would take the VIN along and have them run it, last thing you want is to buy a stolen car. Sounds a little odd to me that someone would strip a valuable car for replacing parts on a low value car.
 

M9Powell

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I would look into how your state handles lost titles. Normally I wouldn't worry too much but with a desirable car who knows why the original title is gone. The fact that the #'s matching block and trans is there is good, to me that means its less likely that somebody rebodied another car to a Boss. Is the dash panel and VIN still with the car?
Yes the VIN is still on the dash & the door decal. Haven't pulled the fender to check. Why on earth would somebody rebody it to a rust bucket? Supposedly the original title is gone be ause the previous & current owner don't think it's worth fixing.
 

mjlan

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By rebody I meant buying a rust free 71 of similar build date range and throwing the dash panel, engine and trans into it and viola, rust free Boss.

But since all of those easy to remove parts are still with the car I would be less concerned.
 

M9Powell

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When you go talk to the DMV I would take the VIN along and have them run it, last thing you want is to buy a stolen car. Sounds a little odd to me that someone would strip a valuable car for replacing parts on a low value car.
Good advice, but if I were going to prison for GTA it wouldn't be for an inoperative rust bucket. Ohh I don't know where I gave you that impression. His car is not a low value car. Very nice 71 R code he takes to car shows. It's only real faults are the engine is a warranty replacement & it has the rear axle out of this car, along with the intake & carb & many other parts.
 

M9Powell

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By rebody I meant buying a rust free 71 of similar build date range and throwing the dash panel, engine and trans into it and viola, rust free Boss.

But since all of those easy to remove parts are still with the car I would be less concerned.
Yes I understand, but if this car Is a rebody why put all these parts on a rust bucket? A rebody would be the easy way to fix it now if I could get a title. But I don't want to do that.
 

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The reason to check the shock tower VIN locations is just to be sure you're restoring what you believe it to be. The DMV may also require an inspection of them to verify the identity of the car.

As far as a title, it depends on your state. Just be sure to get a signed bill of sale from the seller, and you can work out the rest. There are title service companies that can get you a title from another state. Probably wouldn't hurt to have the BoS notarized, just because.
 

BUCKWHEAT

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Plan A: Ask your insurance guy if he can/will run the VIN for you. Also ask any police friend the same. If any success, get name/state of listed owner, then chase that on internet to get a contact. do this before you pay any real money to anyone.
Plan B: Buy the "parts" of a rusty old car on a bill of sale from the guy who has it. Get his name and address on the bill of sale. Trash any thing that you don't want.
 
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If it is a rust bucket, I doubt that it is a rebody. I would buy the car and put it in your garage/barn or some building and start replacing body panels as time and funds allowed. No Boss car should ever be scrapped, they are too rare and the value will only go up, especially if you have the matching block, heads, transmission and rear end. If I was buying a boss car I would not care too much about the carb and intake, especially if I can get one for a much lower price, in the same condition. As for the title it depends on your state, every state has a way to obtain a title for a car that has lost a title. It will be easier if you have a bill of sale so get one from the seller.
 

M9Powell

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No Boss car should ever be scrapped, they are too rare and the value will only go up, especially if you have the matching block, heads, transmission and rear end.
My thoughts exactly. There is a rear end in it to roll it around but not the right one. I can get a BOS I like the intake & carb I have better even if they aren't correct (still factory ford). Building it too please me not too hit a price point. Never been a fan of the 4300 D. I'll also paint it Calypso Coral which was special order available on a 71 Boss. My old one was factory painted CC. It was a std color on 70 boss, but in 71 it was a std color on Cobra Torino, Mercury Cyclone & maybe Maverick Grabber & Comet GT. There is a You Tube video of a very low mileage original CC 71 boss.
 

M9Powell

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My old car also had deluxe Mach 1 door panels & cloth seats vermillion, if they repro this upholstery, that's what is go back with.
 

M9Powell

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Muscle car of the week episode #292 shows a factory original Calypso Coral 71 Boss on YouTube.
 

Greg

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I'm presuming your is the grabber green metallic one for sale. I owned a 71 Special order Absolutely loaded Boss 351 in CC Loved the car, but if it were a color change I would have hated that part and not purchased it. I'm not a fan of color changes and I have seen so many original green cars painted other colors. I would love to find an original Grabber green one, but loaded. Great examples are nearly non existent. I always deduct for value when coming across a color change as it is in the same class to me as a car needing a complete stripping and paint. I like cars to be a good example of every color of how they came from the factory. An undesirable factory color to me is always more attractive than a color change. If I can't live with the original color , I won't buy that car. This car is better for a person who can do body work that likes it's original color. What you will be putting into this car and being a color you want to change sounds like the wrong car. Better off to find a better body with a livable color which should be cheaper in the long run and worth more when done. I would only do a rust bucket if it was ordered from the factory as I would have wanted. Your car will have a color change and major body repair history which will always negatively impact the value. Not to mention it has been stripped of many original parts. What you will end up with is a car with very little near it's original essence. Keep it green and less negative stories to hurt value. Just my take.
 
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