1972 Grande rebuild

[JT351W]

Here is where I am at so far.  Engine mostly done. 

New heads (AFR 180cc), pistons (flat top), connecting rods (free type), bearings, TFS Stage 1 roller camshaft, steel 1.6 rockers with roller tips, retro roller lifters, new oil pump, new water pump, all now gaskets, and port matched the intake to the heads (to max air flow limited by the heads, not the intake - hopefully).  The rotating assembly was balanced by a local machine shop.  I cleaned up the block and honed the cylinders.  All the measurements/gaps were within spec per the Ford manual.  The deskyop dyno using all the parts I installed showed about 10.1:1 compression with theoretical 437HP and over 500lbs of torque.  Hmm.  Not sure about that.  But my butt dyno will be the judge of that.    

 

[JT351W]

After some research and budget crunching, I decided to go with 17" wheels.  8" wide up front to not interfere with the upper ball joint and 9.5" in the rear.  Front wheels are 245/45R17 and rear are 285/40R17.  NOTE:  The green paint is just a light coat from a can to see what it would look like.  

 

[JT351W]

My next plan is to finish the brakes (bench bleed, etc) and run the fuel lines (supply and return) from the tank to the front.  From some research I did, I think I will set up a test run stand using the engine stand to run this engine before I install it into the car.  I think it would be less of a headache to find out what I did wrong with the engine out of the car then in it.   Does anyone have any recommendations on how to set up a test stand to run the engine? 

 

[Don C]

This should give you an idea of what is involved, a little elaborate for a one time use, but not too bad.

DIY Folding Engine Run Stand Build Plans for Ford, GM, and Mopar (roadkillcustoms.com)

I've also heard of people cobbling something together from lumber, a little risky, but probably OK as long as you don't try revving it numerous times and twisting the engine out of the stand.

 

[Fabrice]

I don't have the space to even consider have one of these anyway, but I wonder why it would be more work than place the engine in the car?  I mean unless you plan to brake in more engines, building one for that one test/brake in seams more work to me.
If the engine was put together with care, which your above text suggests you did, why would things go potentially less wrong if on a stand?
I've placed and removed 2 351c at least 4 times in same car as yours and unlike a 429, it's really done in matter of minutes.

but may be I miss something here...

 

[JT351W]

Fabrice -- Thanks for your feedback.  Much appreciated.  For me, I wanted to make sure any issues that may come up after running the engine I could could address outside the engine bay.  Pulling the engine in and out is a challenge for me due to my disability.  Plus, I already have the steel and ability to weld a simple setup together.  So for me, it is not that much more work.  It may save me more time later in terms of putting the engine in. 

Don C - thanks for that.  I was looking at that earlier.  Interesting ideas.  I have seen some others on the web based on an engine stand.  I think I will "Frankenstein" one together out of steel.  A wood version is unnerving.   

 

[vintageman]

My next plan is to finish the brakes (bench bleed, etc) and run the fuel lines (supply and return) from the tank to the front.  From some research I did, I think I will set up a test run stand using the engine stand to run this engine before I install it into the car.  I think it would be less of a headache to find out what I did wrong with the engine out of the car then in it.   Does anyone have any recommendations on how to set up a test stand to run the engine? 

I used an engine stand as well, can't remember the name brand but the wiring schematics were pretty bad so I did a mock drawing and got it to work correctly (drawing attached here). I did use a mechanical oil and temp gauge instead of the electrical gauge.  I also mocked up a wooden stand to hold the radiator. Here is my YouTube video of the engine running on the stand. This is before I set timing and carb adjustments.




My diagram to wire engine stand (ONE i USED FOR RUN STAND).pptx

 

[JT351W]

Vintageman,  thanks for your feedback and ideas.  I went the mechanical gauges route too for the stand.  Those parts have already arrived (Tach, water temp, and oil pressure).  Already got the 4 and 16 gauge wiring.  I still need to get a starter and radiator so I am researching that.  I already ordered the bellhousing (for TKX trans) and block plate.    Great video.  Bet it was super loud! 

 

[vintageman]

Yea, she was loud. Neighbors from 2 blocks over came by that evening and said I woke them up. I just laughed and told them they should have been up at that time anyway.  Good luck with your build and looking forward to seeing/hearing yours as well.

Tom

 

[JT351W]

Vintageman - I finally got the stand finished and the engine started.  :wrench: I was grinning ear to ear.  My daugher come over to visit and was with me when I started it for the first time.  She laughed at my facial expression.  Starting was pretty easy with the Holley Sniper setup.  Just took my time with all the wiring and efi pump setup.  Now back to the car itself. 

For anyone - any comments regarding the Tremec TKX?  Also, 2.5 or 3 exhaust?  3 is what is on it now.  Pretty loud.  It set my car alarm off 3 times.  :lollerz:



View attachment 351W EFI I short I.mp4

 

[computercarguy]

I had the same distributor setup and ran into difficulty with 'noise' from the h.e.i. coil effecting the Sniper's reading of the rpm signal. Computer is only inches from the coil. I  ended up going to a setup with the external coil.

 

[JT351W]

It has been a while. Been busy at work. And with the stang.

I made a tunnel, if you will, from the tank to the axle side so the fuel lines (high pressure and return) would not get pinched. Fuel tank is installed along with internal fuel pump.

Next I completed the brakes. All bleed and good to go. Feel nice. Solid. Kind of. One the booster gets vacuum, it should be good. But we will see.

I finally got the transmission. Tremec TKX.



Got a RAM clutch. Put that on in addition to a new fork, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing. The transmission slide on pretty easy.


I also replaced the old long tube headers with Hedman's mid-length headers. It is ceramic coated and has 1 5/8 tubes (vs the long tube 11/2 tubes). The short headers will allow me to keep the exhaust somewhat tight to the body to give it clean look from the bottom.

I put the engine into the mustang as one unit. It worked out pretty good. Fortunately this model mustang is big and there was enough room even with the heads on. I did scratch the ceramic coating a little so I will need to see what I can use to cover those scratchs. VHT flameproof coating?


Transmission is mounted to insulator. I had to get a custom mount from MDL due to the original mount not working on the TKX (longer than the FMX). I also had to open the shift hole in the tunnel on the passenger side so the transmission would not rub. Apparently this is common based on what I found in the forums.

FInally, I got the contour electric fan setup mounted on the new radiator.

I am working on learning the electrical stuff to wire the fan, the Sniper EFI to control it, etc. I still need to start the wiring process, get the instrument panel setup (Dakota Digital VHX version), and get the pig tails for all the lights.

 

[JT351W]

Well. I have steadily been working on the 72 Coupe. Engine is in. Exhaust completed. Brakes bled. Ignition and starter setup. Converted American Autowire ignition setup from dash mount to the original column mount keyed ignition. Car starts great. I can move it in and out of the garage as needed. But more work is still needed. I still need to finish wiring the headlights, running lights, turn signals, brake lights, and dome lights. Then the dakota digital dash needs to be installed and configured. Classic air has been ordered but still a few weeks away. And then the glass (rear and windshield).

 

[vintageman]

Great job, congratulations.

Tom

 

[JT351W]

I would liketo get some thoughts on what I did a few weeks ago. The rear valance was not fitting exactly as I liked. So instead of fitting the new valance to the new rear quarter panel and possibly damaging the shape of the valance, I added some metal to match the valance shape. Any thoughts/comments?

 

[JT351W]

Something else I still need to do. I curretly have an HEI distro setup. I am using a Holley Sniper already installed. I got the hyperspark distributor, ignition box, and coil but have not installed that yet. My goal is to manage engine timing in the drver's seat as needed. I also have the ram air air filter box and I know it will not fit because the distributor sits high and the air cleaner box cannot sit on the Sniper. I will have to cut out that portion of the box and weld in some sheet metal to allow the box to rest on the Sniper and still clear the distro. Fortunately with all the MIG welding experience I have gotten over the last 6 years doing body/frame work on this project, I feel pretty comfy doing this.

 

[RIBS]

Nice! Are you wiring with dash in place? I pulled mine. Same for AC, installed with no dash..I just completed my Classic Auto Air…instructions were not great, virtually none for engine bay..but system seems to work good. Also the AAW kit was very good, I did have to buy the connector for the washer pump, it wasn’t included.about $5. Not a big deal, it just was a head scratcher for a while…

 

[Bill Perkins]

You are doing a very good job keep up the great work

 

[JT351W]

You are doing a very good job keep up the great work

Thanks. Much appreciated.

 

[JT351W]

Nice! Are you wiring with dash in place? I pulled mine. Same for AC, installed with no dash..I just completed my Classic Auto Air…instructions were not great, virtually none for engine bay..but system seems to work good. Also the AAW kit was very good, I did have to buy the connector for the washer pump, it wasn’t included.about $5. Not a big deal, it just was a head scratcher for a while…

Ribs - I plan to do the same as you. Pull the dash and whatever is in the way to put in the A/C so I have room to place wiring, etc. I want to try to keep that clean looking. For now all the wiring is just grouped together with masking tape and not in anything like 1/2" or 3/4" loom. But once the A/C is in, I will organize the wiring so it is all inside a loom. I do need to get a pump for the washer fluid tank. Thanks for reminding me. I assume the wiring is straight forward - ground wire and hot wire to the washer controls. I aso need to look at the old wiper/washer controls and see if I should replace those. Crap! I keep adding to the list of stuff to do. :-(

 

[RIBS]

Ribs - I plan to do the same as you. Pull the dash and whatever is in the way to put in the A/C so I have room to place wiring, etc. I want to try to keep that clean looking. For now all the wiring is just grouped together with masking tape and not in anything like 1/2" or 3/4" loom. But once the A/C is in, I will organize the wiring so it is all inside a loom. I do need to get a pump for the washer fluid tank. Thanks for reminding me. I assume the wiring is straight forward - ground wire and hot wire to the washer controls. I aso need to look at the old wiper/washer controls and see if I should replace those. Crap! I keep adding to the list of stuff to do. :-(

The washer wiring and pump I had was Two wire, two prong plug. The AAW wire is just a single unterminated wire, you will need to buy the washer two prong plug, connect one to the AAW green wire and make the second plug wire a ground. Easy to do…

tip for you on AC…when combined with AAW kit. You will need 2 power sources, some of the AAW AC and accessory wire bundles are good sources.
when you mount the AAW fusebox as outlined in the kit, it’s a good thing, but if you try to mount the Classic Auto Air controller next to it, you will have 2 issues, one AC harness will be tight or 2 short, and the boxes might be in the way of your glove box latch or glove box light…also I ended up cutting the supplied glove box down to about half its height to clear the AAW fusebox…also I had trouble with a air duct being too short, and they don’t attach well to all the adapters, I sunk a few stainless steel screws here and there to help attach soft hoses to adapters….

are you doing a mach one light wire setup?