1972 Mach 1 H code Prior owner restoration that need help.

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Welcome to the forum. How was the 351-2V represented to you prior to the sale, and what was the indication to you that it had not been rebuilt. I take it you found driveability issues which weren't just related to tuning (including the carb).
Tuning was part of the issue as the timing was set close to 50° advanced. Haven't tried rejecting the carb yet. It just lacks power. Can't floor it. It seems like there might be a vacuum leak or it is getting to much fuel because I hear a backfire into the carb.
 
...Can't floor it. It seems like there might be a vacuum leak or it is getting to much fuel because I hear a backfire into the carb.

If you are backfiring through the carb when you floor it, you are probably not getting enough fuel not too much fuel. I'd suggest checking out your accelerator pump.

The pump lever may not be adjusted properly or perhaps the diaphragm is worn out.
 
I saw a post in this thread re: using Cougar taillights and sequential flashing. Not a bad way to go, but it may be a bit more than an "all you have to do is" project. Anyway, if the idea of brighter taillights, and sequential flashing, interest you, my suggestion is you use LED panels from VintageLEDs.com. There are some other great LED panel vendors, but I have found that they require a 12 volt switched circuit to be run back to the trunk in order for their sequential flasher feature to work. Not so with VintageLEDs.com (vintageleds.com), as he mounts a separate microprocessor on both LED panels. His solution requires absolutely no wiring modifications or rewiring. It is truly Plug-n-Play at its best. Be sure to order two electronic flashers from his site also, as the oem flashers will likely not work due to the reduced amount of current flowing through the LED panels vs the old incandescent bulbs. The LED and flasher conversion is easy and not too time consuming. Here are some YouTube videos Lynda and I did on the subject>>>




The flashers are replaced in the following video, where I show where they are located, and how to ground the replacement electronic flashers>>>




And here are the VintageLEDs light panels in action>>>

 
Doc,
I was just watching a video about Joe Mondello, who's famous for his knowlege of cylinder heads of all types. In one of these videos, he states that an engine's bacic limitation is it's cylinder head. Well, I'm certainly not the last word here, but I concur. We all know by now that our engines are just air pumps. The airflow numbers of the particular cyl head type you use will dictate how much air you can get in and out, and how agressive a cam you can handle. Good info to remember when choosing a cam. Power brakes and an automatic trans will dictate parameters as well. Unfortunately, there are little, if any, street grinds offered off the shelf for a Cleveland roller. You will likely have to have a custom roller cam ground. There is an old Dynomometer Tech saying,...."Give the engine what it wants, not what you want to give it". Most people over-cam and over-carb their builds. In the case of deciding on rocker arm ratio, the 1.73 is an efficient ratio for these Clevelands. The 1.6 is the Windsor rocker. Chevy guys play around with swapping small block rockers, 1.5 / 1.6 , more to cheat Tech inspections and get more lift from the same cam specs than anything else. Generally, It's thought if you have to change your rocker arm ratio, you chose the wrong cam to begin with.
 
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As Spike said, for what you are doing, stick with the 1.73 rocker arms. I'd suggest US made Scorpion rockers. I've used them on 3 builds with no problems. I'd also suggest contacting Lykins Motorsports for a quasi-custom cam and lifters. It is not much extra "to give the engine what it wants". Good luck with the build. Chuck
 
Update on engine. I have purchased another 351-2V that was already modified with a cam and 4 barrel intake. I am not taking any bodies word as to the status of their work. So this engine is now in the hands of a engine builder. It is going to get a cam change to a roller lifters cam. Have heads rocker arm studs machined for screw in rocker studs and roller rockers. Will be talking to the builder to decide between 1.6 or 1.73 ratio rockers. Not looking to make huge horsepower but definitely more than stock.
I would use the stock 1.73 rockers. It is what all Clevelands came with from the factory with. So, why not?
 
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