1972 Mexican Mustang GT-351

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Oct 8, 2019
Messages
748
Reaction score
270
Location
Missouri
My Car
1971 Mustang Convertible
1971 Mustang Mach I
1972 Mexican GT-351
1971 Mustang Convertible
1988 Bronco II
1970 Torino 4 door
This is a followup post of sorts for a Mustang for sale CL ad.  I ended up buying the car and have been in contact (and joined) the Mexican Mustangs Facebook group (thx to a member here).  I wanted to share some pics of the car and what i have been able to figure out.  i compared my invoice to a known GT-351 and they have the same GT option.  Ford Mexican literature referred to this as the GT option (it included the 351W and the unique fender badging which is missing on mine as a result of one terrible repaint).  Car appears to be very original and 44k km (29k miles or so as i do math in public).  Oddly the invoice denotes auto transmission while the door tag was decoded as 4 sp.  The option was the same price as the manual transmission on the other invoice I saw.

20210130_140057.jpg

20210130_142516.jpg

20210130_161540.jpg

20210131_082007.jpg

20210129_155300.jpg

20210129_155337.jpg

20210129_215211.jpg

20210130_065536.jpg

20210130_065629.jpg

20210130_065704.jpg

20210130_065711.jpg

20210130_065719.jpg

20210130_065725.jpg

20210130_065733.jpg

20210130_130502.jpg

20210130_130509.jpg

20210130_130601.jpg

 
Saw your post on Facebook this morning. Great score. Like I stated there I wish I could find a set of the Mexican rear window louvers and rear spoiler they put on the Shelby versions. The few they made might have been prototypes. Here is the pic I posted there of the Shelby back then with the rear window louvers and spoiler. The stripes suck on this model for sure, lol.

133595917_10217936567191201_990749324298015292_n.jpg

 
This is a followup post of sorts for a Mustang for sale CL ad.  I ended up buying the car and have been in contact (and joined) the Mexican Mustangs Facebook group (thx to a member here).  I wanted to share some pics of the car and what i have been able to figure out.  i compared my invoice to a known GT-351 and they have the same GT option.  Ford Mexican literature referred to this as the GT option (it included the 351W and the unique fender badging which is missing on mine as a result of one terrible repaint).  Car appears to be very original and 44k km (29k miles or so as i do math in public).  Oddly the invoice denotes auto transmission while the door tag was decoded as 4 sp.  The option was the same price as the manual transmission on the other invoice I saw.

View attachment 48490

View attachment 48491

View attachment 48492

View attachment 48493

View attachment 48477

View attachment 48478

View attachment 48479

View attachment 48480

View attachment 48481

View attachment 48482

View attachment 48483

View attachment 48484

View attachment 48485

View attachment 48486

View attachment 48487

View attachment 48488

View attachment 48489
Congratulations! It seems that you made a rare find! 30 k miles isn't that much. And it seems also the car has lot's of the unique Mexican Mustang parts kept. The color seems to be original, too: "Pistache Verde"  :biggrin:

 
Update....coolant was really low so I took the opportunity to flush it. Refilled it with 50/50 mix.....fast forward about 6 wks.....been pulling it out of garage and circling the subdivision.  Checked coolant and it is half gone and bubbling like crazy. I noticed what seemed to be excess water in LH exhaust so I fear there is a head gasket problem on that side (or even worse).  List of things not working: horn, brake lights, turn signals, and transmission is making noise (not grinding, wondering if low lube). Drivers seat tracks appear to be messed up or seat not bolted down completely. Parking brake assy is not bolted in. Tach sticks at 2500-3000 rpm.

 
You could get hood locks on any car but a 6 cylinder. Hood locks and black or argent paint was $18.00 option in the U.S.. Of course you had to spring for the NASA hood or order the Q code in 72 & 73 to get the NASA hood for free. Most electrical issues are related to grounds usually. Go get you a tube of Electrical Grease. Start taking the ground wires loose clean with wire brush, steel wool, scotch brite or such and apply the grease. Clean the light sockets and all connectors and bulbs and add the grease. If you have a boat trailer or camper you have to use the grease. Low miles or Kilos does not mean that wires and connections do not corrode.
You can test for blown head gasket they have a kit that checks for exhaust in the radiator uses a chemical that changes color.
The one I have is called Block Tester Part # BT-700 Google it.
There is also the possibility they put head gasket on backwards. Since a 351 W I think there is a core plug in the front end of the head. You can take the plug out and feel of the gasket inside. On the 221, 260, 289, 302, and 351 if you knock out the plug and feel inside there should not be any openings in the gasket should be closed. If there are two openings the gasket is backwards. Pic of typical gasket.
You sound like you are in panic mode. Just start fixing each issue one at a time and it will all work out. Do not try to fix everything at once. I would check the radiator for exhaust gas first. Some parts houses have the test kit and will rent or loan if you buy the chemicals.
If you just want to get rid of let me know I would be interested.
I was at a show this weekend and the was a 1965 Mexican Mustang there but I did not get pics. I poured the rain and I did not go outside, lol. One person that viewed said the door tag was in Spanish for sure.
In the gasket picture would be typical for the drivers side. The front is to the left and does not have the two holes like in the rear. The gaskets are clearly marked FRONT do not even look a log means nothing put FRONT to FRONT and good to go. Blown heads gasket is a Saturday fix.

289.jpg

 
No panic. Got turn signals working. Had another tach so replaced the sticky one.  It works. Got emergency brake pedal assy bolted in and it works. Brake switch replaced and they now work although long duration between flashes. Horn today (hopefully can figure it out). Looking at continuity. One horn works when direct connected to battery but no continuity from column to horn. Will check other spots. Also working to replace various bulbs.

 
Update on the car. No real engine problems with this car despite my fears 2 yrs ago. I just drove it 200 miles for a car show, 100 each way. Did a basic tune up back then and put in a pertronix unit. Horns are still a bit wonky. Exhaust is very sooty. I had thought it was some kind of gunk that had accumulated but I have put a few miles on it. Next step is to replace all the suspension rubber. Car wanders on the road really bad. Will also replace the shocks. Brakes feel really weird too. Very little braking for most of the pedal travel but it is braking and then at the very end it all comes in. Guess. I will add that to things to look at this winter. Focused on getting the vert done.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20230321_202702196.MP.jpg
    PXL_20230321_202702196.MP.jpg
    5.3 MB · Views: 0
Back
Top