1973 Mach 1 H-code Question

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classicsguy

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1968 GT/CS California Special
I will look at a 1973 Mach 1 here that has 351 2v engine. I have never driven an H code...how are they in stock form in the power department?

About 8 years ago I had a 1972 Q code Mach...plenty of power but wondering about the H -code..its an auto car.

Thanks

 
From my experience the H code cars have decent acceleration but not the muscle car feel of the Q code or greater cars.

And if this H code is running a low numerical rear end, it will be pretty tame.

It is not that difficult to modify (OUCH LOL) a H code to run a 4-V carburator to help restore some power. The 2-V heads are not too bad so not totally necessary to change those too.

It all depends on what you are wanting to do with the car.

Ray

 
The H code is the low compression base version of the 351c. Its not going to have a whole lot of power with only 8 to 1 compression. Put a 4v manifold and a set of aussie heads on it and it should bring it up to around 9.2 to 1 range and give it a little more snap. I'll let you know, cause thats what I am doing to of mine right now.

 
I have a h code auto 2.75 diff gears. It doesn't feel like a muscle car in any way but it is an awesome cruise car. Idle along the beach sounding and looking all cool. It will also sit on 90mph all day on the highway. Super cheap to run. Just don't be tempted to drag race anything faster than a push bike. If you want to modify it,diff gears need to be no1 on job list ditto 2v and air gap

Cheers

Luke

 
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Unless you can get aussie heads for $500 bucks (you cant) and get them completely setup with valves and new seats and an angle job for another $500 bucks...they are a waste of money. I know. Get a set of new alum CHI's with cnc job and valve set up for around $2k and will save you headaches and you get better performance and shave around 50lbs off the front end.

 
True or he could just get a Holley and air gap and a gear set and have change from 2 grand. The guy didn't state he wants lots of power just wanted to compare driving a 2 barrel to his old 4 barrel car. Not trying to argue just trying to stick to the requested info before we have the bloke driving around in a blown monster before he buys it ;)

 
Step 1. Figure out how many other options you might have (other model code cars available for sale within your price range).

Step 2. Decide what you want to do with the car. Cruiser, daily driver, part-time or full-time race car?

Step 3. Throw out everything from Step 1 and Step 2, and just buy the dang thing! You can make it exactly what you want over time without breaking the bank.

With any car, you need to decide if you want to re-gear to overcome some of the power deficiencies, or make more power to overcome gearing issues (while maintaining some semblance of economy).

Good luck - I hope you get it and share in the fun with us!

 
Step 1. Figure out how many other options you might have (other model code cars available for sale within your price range).

Step 2. Decide what you want to do with the car. Cruiser, daily driver, part-time or full-time race car?

Step 3. Throw out everything from Step 1 and Step 2, and just buy the dang thing! You can make it exactly what you want over time without breaking the bank.

With any car, you need to decide if you want to re-gear to overcome some of the power deficiencies, or make more power to overcome gearing issues (while maintaining some semblance of economy).

Good luck - I hope you get it and share in the fun with us!
Yup,What he said!
 
Step 1. Figure out how many other options you might have (other model code cars available for sale within your price range).

Step 2. Decide what you want to do with the car. Cruiser, daily driver, part-time or full-time race car?

Step 3. Throw out everything from Step 1 and Step 2, and just buy the dang thing! You can make it exactly what you want over time without breaking the bank.

With any car, you need to decide if you want to re-gear to overcome some of the power deficiencies, or make more power to overcome gearing issues (while maintaining some semblance of economy).


Good luck - I hope you get it and share in the fun with us!
 
Carb, intake, and rear gear upgrades should put you in range of what you had before, more or less. Remember, many new cars now are pretty quick compared to most 60's and 70's cars. Honda, Hyundai, Toyota, various minivans can cause a lot of trouble when fooling around on the road. I have a '71 Mach 1 429 CJ-R 4 speed with carb, cam, header, and ignition upgrades. The thing is a torque monster, and yet some of these newer cars can be a struggle if they are jerking around with you. For example where two lanes merge into one after pulling out from a stop light, I'd give it some juice to get ahead of the car beside me. I don't want to look like an idiot and accelerate in full Funny Car mode against a Hyundai. So now I just let them go ahead. It's better to stay more focused on everyone that is driving around and texting while looking down. heh
 
Mine is an H code as well and was a dog compared to my '67 with 302. Swapped the intake, added 4bbl carb and it became a new car that my '67 couldn't keep up with. Many moons later, changed the gear ratio and yet another car emerged. 4V heads are great for 7K rpm and suck below. I'd smoke my '71 4V head coupe by several car lengths with my '73 H code as long as we didn't go over 1/8th mile. I'll always go 2V heads for the street, and if you need a rebuild even the open chamber heads that are most common are great with the right pistons bringing the compression ratio up. I ran mine on stock pistons for over 30 years now but it's time for a rebuild so I'm bumping the compression up to 9.5:1.
 
Good luck - I hope you get it and share in the fun with us!
I own a Mach 1 and do not know the difference between the different codes on the cars mine is an H code. My husband original bought it for a resto mod car so the hp did not matter at the time. The car is beautiful with very little rust or scratches on the exterior. I unfortunately have to sell it along with a 67 coupe and a 2019 Streeda. This is my 73. It also runs great!
 

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I own a Mach 1 and do not know the difference between the different codes on the cars mine is an H code. My husband original bought it for a resto mod car so the hp did not matter at the time. The car is beautiful with very little rust or scratches on the exterior. I unfortunately have to sell it along with a 67 coupe and a 2019 Streeda. This is my 73. It also runs great!
H code is the two barrel carb engine with low compression. Doesn't take much to wake it up, but it was very "detuned" from the factory.
 
I had a 73 Mach 1 H code with Ram Air back in high school and it had plenty of acceleration for a 16 year old and ran great. So I think you will be satisfied but you can always upgrade it. In my senior year, I read an article in one of my magazines (can't remember which, read them all back in the day) where they took a 2 bbl 351C Mustang and changed the cam, installed an Edelbrock 4 bbl intake for the 2v engine, a Holly 650, headers and a 3:50 limited slip and it out ran a pretty stock 4V 351C by quite a bit. So I saved my pennies (and used the money my parents gave me for spring break, girlfriend was pissed I didn't go to Daytona with her, different priorities) and bought that exact cam, intake, carb, and headers, and did the upgrade to the engine and found a used third member with posi and a 3:25 gear (didn't have budget for new so 3:25 was as close a I could find) and that car was a lot faster with the original stock heads and compression. It was the fastest car in my high school (it was already the coolest, LOL) after that spring break.
 

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A good intake and 4 barrel carb should do well for that car.
In 73 the timing was retarded 4degrees, if you add a new timing gear set and set it to 0 it tends to wake up the Cleveland , sure helped my Q code
 
A good intake and 4 barrel carb should do well for that car.
In 73 the timing was retarded 4degrees, if you add a new timing gear set and set it to 0 it tends to wake up the Cleveland , sure helped my Q code
that does work? with the same cam?
 
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