3/8” steel fuel line

[Steve McMahan]

Does anyone have experience in bending a non-stainless 3/8” steel line? I’m running a new one on the drivers side, and while I have my nifty Harbor Frieght tube bender, will I be able to make 90 degree bends on that size? I’ve bent my own lines for years, just can’t remember if I’ve done it that big; it’s been awhile. I don’t have any to practice on, why I’m asking. Thank you.

 

[Stanglover]

Does anyone have experience in bending a non-stainless 3/8” steel line? I’m running a new one on the drivers side, and while I have my nifty Harbor Frieght tube bender, will I be able to make 90 degree bends on that size? I’ve bent my own lines for years, just can’t remember if I’ve done it that big; it’s been awhile. I don’t have any to practice on, why I’m asking. Thank you.

Is your nifty H/F bender one of these? If so you could hold it in a vice and add an extension to the handle IF NECESSARY. I had no real issue bending the 3/8 steel fuel line to my carb wit this tool. It should be quite easy as long as to calculate correctly........ or buy lots of tubing!!

 

[Steve McMahan]

Nice job. Yea, it looks like that. I’m running a new 3/8” line on the passenger side, just like the stock line on the drivers side. I don’t think it will be as hard as that line on your car. 

 

[droptop73]

Go with NiCop rather than steel, no rust and MUCH easier to bend.

 

[turtle5353]

Go with NiCop rather than steel, no rust and MUCH easier to bend.

+1.  That’s what I usually use also.  Really nice to work with. 

 

[Stanglover]

Nice job. Yea, it looks like that. I’m running a new 3/8” line on the passenger side, just like the stock line on the drivers side. I don’t think it will be as hard as that line on your car. 

Thanks, but a question, how are you going to get the line crossed over to the left side for the pump without running it under the engine or tranny, or are you using an electric pump and bypass the mechanical one. 

NOTE: make sure you use Fuel Injector rubber hose where needed as it's ethanol resistant and please NEVER use gear clamps on anything that is not temporary (other than air cleaners and the like). Either proper spring clamps for fuel lines or like you see in my pic #2. I just watched a TV show Texas Metal, where this guy must have dumped 200K in this resto mod truck. They were showing the revamped Corvette engine, but guess what, the damn fuel line at the front of the engine was connected with freakin gear clamps....., How cheap is that! Looked really bad.

 

[SteveO_71]

Does anyone have a link for the proper clamps that should be used for fuel lines? Currently I have those screw drive clamps (hose clamps) in a couple of spots, that I dont believe are really the right ones to use. 

thanks!

 

[c9zx]

Here you go.  https://www.npdlink.com/product/hose-clamp-kit-pinch-type/181554?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D380882-SAK%252C%2B%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D Chuck

 

[Steve McMahan]

Here is my complex fuel flow/return diagram:


 

My plan is all based on using the stock Ford fuel line fittings and entry/exit locations. The fuel feed is at the bottom of the smog pump, as well as the return line. My plan is to use Kilgon’s fuel pump hack and put the fuel pump in the vent insert location. From there, exit to that structure in front of the tank and install a in line fuel filter. From there, to either the subframe connectors or better, the same location as the stock but on the passenger side and run a hard line all the way to a panel penetration fitting under the battery box to connect with a flex line that can stand ethanol. For the return, I plan to starting at the same location, under the smog pump, route a flex line to the firewall, up and around the transmission cutout and connect to the stock 3/8” line under the brake master cylinder. All with fuel rated hose, clamps, etc cause I don’t want to die. I’m going to use the Specter Pump Bracket return line, modified, as the new vent line, so that routing is already stock.

 

[Stanglover]

Does anyone have a link for the proper clamps that should be used for fuel lines? Currently I have those screw drive clamps (hose clamps) in a couple of spots, that I dont believe are really the right ones to use. 

thanks!

Harbor Freight sells them by the box full in various sizes. They also sell the spring type clamps. I bought a couple of boxes last time I was in the US......... 2 years ago!

 

[Stanglover]

Here is my complex fuel flow/return diagram:

View attachment 56861
 

My plan is all based on using the stock Ford fuel line fittings and entry/exit locations. The fuel feed is at the bottom of the smog pump, as well as the return line. My plan is to use Kilgon’s fuel pump hack and put the fuel pump in the vent insert location. From there, exit to that structure in front of the tank and install a in line fuel filter. From there, to either the subframe connectors or better, the same location as the stock but on the passenger side and run a hard line all the way to a panel penetration fitting under the battery box to connect with a flex line that can stand ethanol. For the return, I plan to starting at the same location, under the smog pump, route a flex line to the firewall, up and around the transmission cutout and connect to the stock 3/8” line under the brake master cylinder. All with fuel rated hose, clamps, etc cause I don’t want to die. I’m going to use the Specter Pump Bracket return line, modified, as the new vent line, so that routing is already stock.

 Steve, please allow me to get my head around what you are trying to achieve. Now, I'm no mechanic or anything for that matter, but somehow this doesn't make sense to me unless I'm missing something, which I could well be. A) are you installing EFI or staying with a carb? B) if a carb why consider the swap of the line to the other side? I think you are wanting to add an electric fuel pump, I get that, but you might want to rethink a fuel return line. Wouldn't you need it to enter the tank above the max fuel level in the tank, not at the bottom where the current sender is located. If that line is not pressurized and with a non-return valve, gas will not re-enter the tank. 

As for using flex rubber lines of any length, personally, I wouldn't do that. I'd want to keep them as short as possible. Maybe it's just me, but sorry, I'm not feeling this idea. 

 

[droptop73]

Is that a view from the top or bottom? 

 

[Steve McMahan]

Ok, we’ll it’s apparent you haven’t read my build thread . I have an 87 TBird as my donor car and I’m installing the complete drivetrain, except the rear end, into my 73. So, it’s an EFI car. While I am using the original fuel location as a return line, I am installing a return end on the line so it will function while immersed in the fuel tank. The drawing is top is engine, bottom is fuel tank. I provided the explanation because of the questions being asked. Actually, I received the answer to the question I asked, the use of the tin/copper tubing verses the old school steel line. I’ve ordered the line I need, so thank you for the answer to the question I asked.

 

[Steve McMahan]

And just so we’re clear, a stock 87-93 mustang return line feeds fuel about 4” from the bottom of the tank. They do that to reduce aeration of the fuel. It also has a small cap; looks like the rubber cap at the bottom of the AC plenum in the car that releases water. It allows a very low 1 or 2 psi to build in the return line before entering the tank.

 

[Stanglover]

Steve, my bad, I had not read your build thread, so thanks for explaining and now makes sense.......... I guess. I should go back a start again by reading the thread. Now I feel like a ****!

On the line I used for my carb connection, I just bought a couple of lengths of fuel line tube with the fitting. This is copper lined tubing.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Naw, your not a ****. I know a few dicks, you don’t pass the **** test. Thanks as always on keeping me from killing myself.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

Here is my complex fuel flow/return diagram:

View attachment 56861
 

My plan is all based on using the stock Ford fuel line fittings and entry/exit locations. The fuel feed is at the bottom of the smog pump, as well as the return line. My plan is to use Kilgon’s fuel pump hack and put the fuel pump in the vent insert location. From there, exit to that structure in front of the tank and install a in line fuel filter. From there, to either the subframe connectors or better, the same location as the stock but on the passenger side and run a hard line all the way to a panel penetration fitting under the battery box to connect with a flex line that can stand ethanol. For the return, I plan to starting at the same location, under the smog pump, route a flex line to the firewall, up and around the transmission cutout and connect to the stock 3/8” line under the brake master cylinder. All with fuel rated hose, clamps, etc cause I don’t want to die. I’m going to use the Specter Pump Bracket return line, modified, as the new vent line, so that routing is already stock.

Looks good to me.

 

[Stanglover]

Naw, your not a ****. I know a few dicks, you don’t pass the **** test. Thanks as always on keeping me from killing myself.

 Steve, that's funny and thanks for telling me I don't pass the "****" test! Now I'd better go read your thread before I do finally qualify.

 

[Stanglover]

Ah, NOW I get it!! THAT is something I would not try to do, I hate electrical stuff and avoid anything that is not simple. Adding the headlight relays was about as hard as it gets for me. 

I do now see why you need the fuel line on the right side and I think your plan will work out. Once it's all figured out, I would think you're going to pull it all again and make it all look "pretty" as you progress with the restoration of the Grande. Seeing that would be a nice addition to your build thread. 

Stay positive and please don't "kill yourself" !!