3- Point Seat Belts w/o neck rash!

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The problem with my solution is that while the drop link is mounted to the original mounting point for the shoulder strap, the lower portion is bolted to the seatbelt. You can slide a guard over the metal, make a vinyl or leather sleeve, you can smooth it or plastidip it, but there is no getting around the fact that it isn't tested, it is only as strong as the hardware you choose to use and if it fails, it is all on you for "designing and manufacturing the part"

I accept the risks of my own modifications, I used a heavy piece of steel that is to my way of thinking stronger than anything else in the mounting system and I used good grade 8 hardware with proper and complete thread engagement and equal in size to the factory fasteners. I don't let other people drive my car for the most part.

To be clear I don't recommend doing it the way I did it. There is no engineering to back me up nor is there any testing to prove me right.
Understood.

I'm still waiting for someone who has installed the drop-links to explain how they did it (were they part of a kit, did they have someone do it, were they able to simply replace the link with the drop-link, etc.). I'm also not in any kind of a hurry or anything like that, either.

 
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I'm still waiting for someone who has installed the drop-links to explain how they did it (were they part of a kit, did they have someone do it, were they able to simply replace the link with the drop-link, etc.). I'm also not in any kind of a hurry or anything like that, either.
For my drop link, the shackle at the bottom of the drop link is designed to be big enough for the latch buckle to slide through it, so you just thread the belt and buckle straight through the shackle when installing, there's no unstitching involved. My drop link and seatbelts came from the one manufacturer (Hemco Australia) so clearly the belts and droplinks are designed to work well with each other. Whether or not the Hemco droplink would work with non-Hemco belts I couldn't say.

 
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The problem with my solution is that while the drop link is mounted to the original mounting point for the shoulder strap, the lower portion is bolted to the seatbelt. You can slide a guard over the metal, make a vinyl or leather sleeve, you can smooth it or plastidip it, but there is no getting around the fact that it isn't tested, it is only as strong as the hardware you choose to use and if it fails, it is all on you for "designing and manufacturing the part"

I accept the risks of my own modifications, I used a heavy piece of steel that is to my way of thinking stronger than anything else in the mounting system and I used good grade 8 hardware with proper and complete thread engagement and equal in size to the factory fasteners. I don't let other people drive my car for the most part.

To be clear I don't recommend doing it the way I did it. There is no engineering to back me up nor is there any testing to prove me right.
It is a legal thing for sure. That being said, strapping your body in the seat isn't any different than strapping 250lbs of lumber to my ladder rack on my truck. Secure the load, so when you stop (or hit something) the load stays put. I'm pretty certain the leaf spring shackle that Jeff used is not the weak link in the equation. Truthfully, if the force is great enough, (ie, the rate of deceleration is quick enough) your body is the weak link. You'll get sliced into pieces by the belt, like one of those wire hard boiled egg slicers. :s

Drive safely my friends.

Eric

 
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The problem with my solution is that while the drop link is mounted to the original mounting point for the shoulder strap, the lower portion is bolted to the seatbelt. You can slide a guard over the metal, make a vinyl or leather sleeve, you can smooth it or plastidip it, but there is no getting around the fact that it isn't tested, it is only as strong as the hardware you choose to use and if it fails, it is all on you for "designing and manufacturing the part"

I accept the risks of my own modifications, I used a heavy piece of steel that is to my way of thinking stronger than anything else in the mounting system and I used good grade 8 hardware with proper and complete thread engagement and equal in size to the factory fasteners. I don't let other people drive my car for the most part.

To be clear I don't recommend doing it the way I did it. There is no engineering to back me up nor is there any testing to prove me right.
It is a legal thing for sure. That being said, strapping your body in the seat isn't any different than strapping 250lbs of lumber to my ladder rack on my truck. Secure the load, so when you stop (or hit something) the load stays put. I'm pretty certain the leaf spring shackle that Jeff used is not the weak link in the equation. Truthfully, if the force is great enough, (ie, the rate of deceleration is quick enough) your body is the weak link. You'll get sliced into pieces by the belt, like one of those wire hard boiled egg slicers. :s

Drive safely my friends.

Eric
Thanks for the graphic depiction.

 
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The problem with my solution is that while the drop link is mounted to the original mounting point for the shoulder strap, the lower portion is bolted to the seatbelt. You can slide a guard over the metal, make a vinyl or leather sleeve, you can smooth it or plastidip it, but there is no getting around the fact that it isn't tested, it is only as strong as the hardware you choose to use and if it fails, it is all on you for "designing and manufacturing the part"

I accept the risks of my own modifications, I used a heavy piece of steel that is to my way of thinking stronger than anything else in the mounting system and I used good grade 8 hardware with proper and complete thread engagement and equal in size to the factory fasteners. I don't let other people drive my car for the most part.

To be clear I don't recommend doing it the way I did it. There is no engineering to back me up nor is there any testing to prove me right.
It is a legal thing for sure. That being said, strapping your body in the seat isn't any different than strapping 250lbs of lumber to my ladder rack on my truck. Secure the load, so when you stop (or hit something) the load stays put. I'm pretty certain the leaf spring shackle that Jeff used is not the weak link in the equation. Truthfully, if the force is great enough, (ie, the rate of deceleration is quick enough) your body is the weak link. You'll get sliced into pieces by the belt, like one of those wire hard boiled egg slicers. :s

Drive safely my friends.

Eric
Thanks for the graphic depiction.
...no problem

eggslicer.jpg

 
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I emailed Ando Auto asking about the question of how to assemble the door post extension (DPE):


Hello


 


The latch will not fit thru the door post. To install the door post the webbing has to be either cut and the end or removed from the retractor.


 


Sorry but we do not modify customers belts.





 
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[attachment=37336][attachment=37337][attachment=37338]Being vertically challenged, I'm very interested in this "modification" as long as it is a properly constructed belt system. My problem is that I bought a 3 point front belt system from NPD and was very dissatisfied with it for several reasons and took it back. Typical of other brands as well, the center lap belt portion that is screwed to the trans tunnel, is too short. With my drivers seat position, the buckle ended up on the side of the seat itself. OK for the taller driver as the seat would be back further. Another bad point was the buckle sold (at the time by NPD) was the lift-latch type, not correct on our cars, but still sold for the 71-73's. One more irritating concern that the guys at Seat Belt Solutions in Florida could not seem to grasp was the fact that the webbing coming over the shoulder took a twist, rubbing the neck and looking like crap.

I rolled the web in the shoulder bracket and the latch to remove said twist, except then the lap belt attachment bar where it connects with the retractor bolt, has a bend that is supposed to angle the lap belt toward the seat, but now faced outward and hit the door. If that bend was the other way, the belt would at least fit straight with no twist. My point here is I want to buy another set of 3 point belts for safety and comfort, but I don't want to have to the hassle. Has anyone else tried to install 3 point belts and had a problem with unwanted twists that look just wrong and does another manufacturer have belts that do not have this twist??

NOTE: Pictures are as it was first installed to the instructions.

 
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Being vertically challenged, I'm very interested in this "modification" as long as it is a properly constructed belt system. My problem is that I bought a 3 point front belt system from NPD and was very dissatisfied with it for several reasons and took it back. Typical of other brands as well, the center lap belt portion that is screwed to the trans tunnel, is too short. With my drivers seat position, the buckle ended up on the side of the seat itself. OK for the taller driver as the seat would be back further. Another bad point was the buckle sold (at the time by NPD) was the lift-latch type, not correct on our cars, but still sold for the 71-73's. One more irritating concern that the guys at Seat Belt Solutions in Florida could not seem to grasp was the fact that the webbing coming over the shoulder took a twist, rubbing the neck and looking like crap.

I rolled the web in the shoulder bracket and the latch to remove said twist, except then the lap belt attachment bar where it connects with the retractor bolt, has a bend that is supposed to angle the lap belt toward the seat, but now faced outward and hit the door. If that bend was the other way, the belt would at least fit straight with no twist. My point here is I want to buy another set of 3 point belts for safety and comfort, but I don't want to have to the hassle. Has anyone else tried to install 3 point belts and had a problem with unwanted twists that look just wrong and does another manufacturer have belts that do not have this twist??

NOTE: Pictures are as it was first installed to the instructions.
Geoff, if you were able to correct the twist by rolling over the web (belt) and the only problem now is the end bracket's bend is toward the sill (not pictured) instead of toward the seat (pictured), I would suggest clamping this bracket in a vise and bending it the other way.

Seems like that would solve half of your problem, as you would still need the drop link to lower the angle away from your neck.

As far as the "bucket seat end" attached to the trans tunnel, how long is yours? I purchased the 11" option, as opposed to the 8" option.

Eric

 
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Being vertically challenged, I'm very interested in this "modification" as long as it is a properly constructed belt system. My problem is that I bought a 3 point front belt system from NPD and was very dissatisfied with it for several reasons and took it back. Typical of other brands as well, the center lap belt portion that is screwed to the trans tunnel, is too short. With my drivers seat position, the buckle ended up on the side of the seat itself. OK for the taller driver as the seat would be back further. Another bad point was the buckle sold (at the time by NPD) was the lift-latch type, not correct on our cars, but still sold for the 71-73's. One more irritating concern that the guys at Seat Belt Solutions in Florida could not seem to grasp was the fact that the webbing coming over the shoulder took a twist, rubbing the neck and looking like crap.

I rolled the web in the shoulder bracket and the latch to remove said twist, except then the lap belt attachment bar where it connects with the retractor bolt, has a bend that is supposed to angle the lap belt toward the seat, but now faced outward and hit the door. If that bend was the other way, the belt would at least fit straight with no twist. My point here is I want to buy another set of 3 point belts for safety and comfort, but I don't want to have to the hassle. Has anyone else tried to install 3 point belts and had a problem with unwanted twists that look just wrong and does another manufacturer have belts that do not have this twist??

NOTE: Pictures are as it was first installed to the instructions.
Geoff, if you were able to correct the twist by rolling over the web (belt) and the only problem now is the end bracket's bend is toward the sill (not pictured) instead of toward the seat (pictured), I would suggest clamping this bracket in a vise and bending it the other way.

Seems like that would solve half of your problem, as you would still need the drop link to lower the angle away from your neck.

As far as the "bucket seat end" attached to the trans tunnel, how long is yours? I purchased the 11" option, as opposed to the 8" option.

Eric
Eric, I thought about just bending the bottom bracket, but as this is a safety item and I have no idea what steel it is made from, the risk of fracture is too great. The real problem was the buckle location on the side of the seat. That strap was also 11inches long, in a plastic sheath. The originals are about 15" long and that is what I need so the buckle is where it should be.

Thanks for your reply. If you or someone else knows of a better solution and brand, please let me know. The drop link idea would be a better solution, period.

Geoff.

 
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bending steel a little bit won't generally affect it's strength. Aluminum is another story.
Jeff, I worked with steel all my life and believe me, without knowing what it is, I wasn't going to take that chance on this application. It may well have been fine to look at, but when you stress a material as much as would be needed to reverse that bend and especially without heat to reduce the stresses, I was not taking that chance. Besides, I didn't want that buckle style and the inner seat portion was way too short, so I had other reasons for NOT touching it.

I appreciate your comments though.

Geoff.

 

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