351 C Engine rebuild. Not an expert, want some solid advice.

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When adjusting preload on my engine I primed the engine before setting the preload for each valve set. It may be overkill but in that way I knew they have not bled. It is very easy to hit the drill for a couple seconds each time after turning the engine and before adjusting preload.
 

Hemikiller

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All the parts are finished and I am doing the assembly.

Question of the day. Do I need to prime the hydraulic roller lifters or soak them or anything? I can not find any guidance from Morel, or Cam Research on this subject. These are roller, link bar lifters. I plan to fully prime the engine and set the valve lash per Ford instructions for an adjustable valve train.

Kcmash

Some manufacturers state specifically NOT to soak their roller lifters in oil, nor to prime them prior to installation. I would call Morel with the model number of the lifters you were supplied with and ask them to email you the tech sheet.

They have a tech sheet on setting the lifter preload on their website. I would also ask them if this applies to your specific lifter.

 
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Thanks Hemikiller. That is the paperwork that came with my lifters. So I guess I will not soak. I did lube the exterior with oil and coated the roller surface with assembly lube.

Hopefully I can get the replacement heater hose spud into the block this weekend and finish valve train assembly. Need to get my hoist back from repair so I can get the block down and off of the engine stand.

Kcmash
 
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Ok, I measured for pushrods. I show that I need 8 inch long with the morel link bar lifters and Boss/Cleveland stamped rockers. That has the rocker in the center of the valve stem and 6.5 turns on the poly-locks.

The flat tappet SVO cam used an 8.5 inch.

Should I go ahead and order?

Kcmash
 
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1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Where do I go now.

Engine is in. First start ran at a fairly high idle, showed a coolant leak at a hose, so I shut her down,

Now I have a very rough idle and a very clackity valve train. It sounds like it is way off on timing or something, but I can’t even run it long enough to get a timeline light on it.

What should I try? I am about ready to part this SOB out!
 
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Hemikiller I hope it is the Morel Lifters. I am needing to tweak the timing for sure. It sounded really clattery so I pulled each valance cover today to make sure nothing was coming apart.

I was thinking I should double check the rocker torque, but everything seemed good and snug like when I set them. It will start and run. Just clattery.

I will try rare-torque on the intake since this is the first try with the Aluminum intake too.

Kcmash
 
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Well, another start up today, it runs, it idles, it leaks oil from those friggin rubber valve cover gaskets, it is noisy, and it overheats.

So I am going to get rid of the friggin thermostat as a first item. Next I want to reset the valve lash and seal the friggin valve covers.

It was shaky when cold, like it has a miss, but better when it warmed up.

What is the recommendation for valve lash on a 351c with Morel Link Bar lifters? I went 3/4 past the pushrod resistance. I have heard 1/2 and 1. Since I have the Boss Valve covers I have to remove shock tower braces to even get the covers off, so I don’t want to do this over and over.

Kcmash
 

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If you're running the factory tin VCs make sure you tap the bolt holes flat from the head side. If they've been over tightened they bend and will prevent a good seal. Torque the VC bolts 48-60 inch-pounds. The rubber VC gaskets always work fine for me. They were always easier to reuse on my B302 when I had to adjust the valves (solid lifters) once or twice a year and I've been using them on my '72 for probably 35-40 years..

I agree with Hemikiller on the thermostat. Are you running electric fans?
 

Sheriff41

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The rubber v/c gaskets are trash. I use them only to run-in an engine, then switch to thicker FelPro cork parts. I glue the gaskets to the v/c with weatherstrip adhesive.
Lol! Maybe VC gaskets are the next oil thread discussion! ;)
 
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OK, so I rechecked the valve lash on all cylinders, resealed the valve cover gaskets, then tried it again.

It was a little rough with the first cold start and then it smoothed out. It did not get hot, seemed to rev OK, an did not bog out or stall an pulling into the garage.

Went for a maiden voyage today and she seemed fine with a drive through the neighborhood. I pulled back into the drive and she shut down just fine. When I started her up a few minutes later it would not idle. Apparently the fast idle cam had reset and I was back to curb idle, which was set too low.

So I need to check timing, idle and set the carb with a vacuum gage when I get a chance. Any good suggestions on proper order for that?

Thanks!

Kcmash
 

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Disable the choke by turning the cap in the full "LEAN" direction.

Set idle speed
Set static timing
Adjust mixture screws
Re-set idle speed
Re-check timing

Repeat until you have the consistency you need.

After that, set the choke back to it's original position and adjust as required.
 

metang

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So I need to build a new engine. I have the original, 110k mile old 351 C 2 bolt main block, and period correct 4V quench heads and cast intake.

Dropped the engine at the machine shop today and was surprised to hear that the minimum bore option was .030 over. With this being the first tear down of the original engine I was hoping a clean up pass of .005 and some oversized rings would be an option. (My engine that just failed was a .030 over, making me gun shy.)

So since I have to buy crap, what should I buy for a fun, street worthy,, powerful engine.

So I plan to use the standard crank, the quench chamber heads, and whatever I can do for pistons. I think I would like to go with a Boss 351 grind to the cam, but going with a roller cam and lifter setup, and a double roller timing set.

So, what should I do for pistons and a cam? Any particular piston head or just flat tops. Is .030 over ok for a bore on a Cleveland. Is there an awesome fun cam grind for a 3:25 rear gear and a 4 speed? Who should I buy cam through. The machine shop said they are seeing a long lead time on roller cams. Should I harvest any internals from the trashed engine, or buy new sets? Should I have the Machine Shop assemble or buy a stand and torque it all myself?

thanks!

kcmash
flat top pistons have compression of around 11:1. I dought your want more. I have complete 71 Boss/Cobra Jet engine for sale with mild cam but to radical for me. The engine is new and complete with rough idle. Have pics of engine & intake numbers to check if you like. 4blt main with spread bore flange intake. Have new headers installed. Vehicle in now is 69 mach but original engine for vehicle was wensor 351. I have run engine little over an hour & changed oil. Driven a couple of miles down the road. contact if interested 4172574888
 

hotrodjunkyard

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So I need to build a new engine. I have the original, 110k mile old 351 C 2 bolt main block, and period correct 4V quench heads and cast intake.

Dropped the engine at the machine shop today and was surprised to hear that the minimum bore option was .030 over. With this being the first tear down of the original engine I was hoping a clean up pass of .005 and some oversized rings would be an option. (My engine that just failed was a .030 over, making me gun shy.)

So since I have to buy crap, what should I buy for a fun, street worthy,, powerful engine.

So I plan to use the standard crank, the quench chamber heads, and whatever I can do for pistons. I think I would like to go with a Boss 351 grind to the cam, but going with a roller cam and lifter setup, and a double roller timing set.

So, what should I do for pistons and a cam? Any particular piston head or just flat tops. Is .030 over ok for a bore on a Cleveland. Is there an awesome fun cam grind for a 3:25 rear gear and a 4 speed? Who should I buy cam through. The machine shop said they are seeing a long lead time on roller cams. Should I harvest any internals from the trashed engine, or buy new sets? Should I have the Machine Shop assemble or buy a stand and torque it all myself?

thanks!

kcmash
The first thing to do is to determine what rpm you are going to cruise at and max rpm your pat’s will stand then buy everything for that rpm range. Keep compression below 10 don’t need a roller cam unless you are going to rev over 8500. Boss cam is good. The problem with the Cleveland is spark knock so keep compression low and quench tight. 735 Holley is good choice with stock or low rise manifold.
 

Mister 4x4

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The first thing to do is to determine what rpm you are going to cruise at and max rpm your pat’s will stand then buy everything for that rpm range. Keep compression below 10 don’t need a roller cam unless you are going to rev over 8500. Boss cam is good. The problem with the Cleveland is spark knock so keep compression low and quench tight. 735 Holley is good choice with stock or low rise manifold.
Might be a bit overkill for that engine. My Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) helps push 400 hp to the crank on 351C-2V (stock 2V heads with lots of go-fast goodies). Just my opinion.
flat top pistons have compression of around 11:1. I dought your want more. I have complete 71 Boss/Cobra Jet engine for sale with mild cam but to radical for me. The engine is new and complete with rough idle. Have pics of engine & intake numbers to check if you like. 4blt main with spread bore flange intake. Have new headers installed. Vehicle in now is 69 mach but original engine for vehicle was wensor 351. I have run engine little over an hour & changed oil. Driven a couple of miles down the road. contact if interested 4172574888
Actually, flat tops can be had in just about any compression range. I have some KB 9.5:1 flat-tops in mine. Not to mention, you apparently quoted the original post without reading through the rest - he's pretty much done except for dialing-in to the sweet spot. Sounds like a super-hot engine you have, though.
 
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