351 Cleveland 2v carb recommendations

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My Car
1973 Mach 1 "Q Code"
My engine is about done (bored 30 over, cam is a little bit hotter than the stock, E-954-P) and I am looking to replace the old 2150 Motorcraft carb that was on it. Honestly, I am not even sure that the carb I have was every really on it because it was just handed to me when I bought the engine.  From most of the other reviews on here, I am leaning towards a Summit brand carb but for some reason, Summits site does not show any 2 barrel carbs that I can find in their house brand. I have the stock intake as well and looking to retain that. Thanks for all suggestions. 

Tom

 
That cam is a LOT hotter than the stock H-code cam. I ran it in an M-code 4V engine and it did pretty well, other than it shut off like a switch at 5600.

Summit doesn't make a 2V carburetor, so you're stuck with a Motorcraft or a Holley if you want to stay with the stock intake. You can run a stock iron 4V intake on the 2V heads with a 600 - 750 cfm carb and you'll find it to be a very good intake. The port mismatch looks terrible, but it works fine.

 
That cam is a LOT hotter than the stock H-code cam. I ran it in an M-code 4V engine and it did pretty well, other than it shut off like a switch at 5600.

Summit doesn't make a 2V carburetor, so you're stuck with a Motorcraft or a Holley if you want to stay with the stock intake. You can run a stock iron 4V intake on the 2V heads with a 600 - 750 cfm carb and you'll find it to be a very good intake. The port mismatch looks terrible, but it works fine.

Thanks Hemi, I appreciate the guidance and advice.  If I can find a stock 4v intake, would I still use the 2v valley pan and gaskets or would I have to change that as well?

Tom

 
That cam is a LOT hotter than the stock H-code cam. I ran it in an M-code 4V engine and it did pretty well, other than it shut off like a switch at 5600.

Summit doesn't make a 2V carburetor, so you're stuck with a Motorcraft or a Holley if you want to stay with the stock intake. You can run a stock iron 4V intake on the 2V heads with a 600 - 750 cfm carb and you'll find it to be a very good intake. The port mismatch looks terrible, but it works fine.

Thanks Hemi, I appreciate the guidance and advice.  If I can find a stock 4v intake, would I still use the 2v valley pan and gaskets or would I have to change that as well?

Tom

I'd use the 4V valley pan. Typically I'l run an 1/16" ring of RTV around each side of the port, let it set up for a few and then install.

 
Tom

you can also go with a dual-plane aluminium intake like the Edelbrock Performer 351-2V and top it with a Autolite Model 4300 carburetor.

If your engine is all new done, you can paint the engine and the aluminium intake in the same colour. For more camouflage you can grind off the Edelbrock writing from the top of the intake. :whistling:

This is the same combination I have installed in my stang. I only added a 1" spacer between intake and carb.

This is how the 351-2V with the Edelbrock Performer 351-2V intake and the 4300 carburetor looks like.

(picture is taken during installation with lots of parts missing. :)



Just my 2 ct.

Cheers Frank

 
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Howdy,

I loan this topic...I'm planning to get Edelbrock 2750 intake for my 351C 2bbl (3-speed manual) and of courser I need new carburetor too. I've been reading topics my eyes tired which is good and which is not. Someone say that too big is not good..so with that opinion I've been thinking 570 cfm or 600 cfm carburetor. But at 4bbl thread someone tell that Cleveland likes bigger carburetor than other engines so with that information would it be better look 650 cfm , 675 cfm or even 750 cfm carburetor?

I have mostly looked Quick Fuel (Brawler os Slayer) or Holley carburetor with vacuum secondary but also manual secondary.

Too many things to think and too many choices..would be "wonderfull" if there is only one carburetor what to think..:D

-Isto

 
I used one of the excel sheets on this site and came up with 500-550 CFM for my 351C 2v, so I went with the Holley 500 CFM. The way I figure is that it should definitely be better than the 2100 I took off. Hopefully I will know in about a week, should be firing her up on a run stand by then. Good luck in your search.

Tom

 
Rgr that..my search (example Holler carburetor calculator) also give me 500cfm and thats why I've been looking max 570-600 cfm 4bbl to Edelbrock intake. My car is stock and my plans are not making her any burnout car (3-speed manual with long rear). But funny thing is that those over 600 cfm carburetors seems to be cheaper..not much but they are...and used 4bbl carburetors are mostly over 600 cfm (are they chaining to smaller or bigger..who knows).

Let me know what your thoughts are after first tests...my carburetor change will be prolly 1-2 months from this..but I like to look earlier things..part of the hobby..:).

 
2V carbs are cfm flow rated at 3" of vacuum, 4V carbs are rated at 1.5" vacuum. The Holley "500 cfm" is about 350 cfm when rated at the 4V vacuum level. (500/1.414). Chuck

 
2V carbs are cfm flow rated at 3" of vacuum, 4V carbs are rated at 1.5" vacuum. The Holley "500 cfm" is about 350 cfm when rated at the 4V vacuum level. (500/1.414). Chuck
Ok...so Is that 1.414 same on 2bbl heads and 4bbl carburetor? If so..570 is just on the spot...600 cfm is 424 cfm (close enough)...and even 670 cfm would not be real big  (473 cfm) for calculated 406 cfm (351*5000*0,80/3456). 

 
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I think I confused you, sorry. By 2V I meant a two venturi carburetor and 4v meant four venturi carburetor. I was not referring to the cylinder heads. Other than a custom carburetor the Holley 500cfm is about the largest two venturi carb you will find. Perhaps I am the one who is confused. I assumed you were replacing the 2100 two venturi carb with a Holley two venturi carb. If you are changing to a 4V intake manifold I made a wrong assumption. The Holley calculator works OK for mild engines. It is too conservative for aggressive engine builds. Chuck

 
I'm running an AirGap intake with a Holley 670 Street Avenger carb. Honestly the performer mentioned above (351-2v) is perfect for the street. I had one in the garage but the AirGap came on the car so I just went with it. A little tall in a stock, non NACA hood car. Great combos with room to grow performance-wise. 

 
I'm running my factory H-Code (2V) heads with an Edelbrock Performer 4bbl intake topped with a matching Edelbrock 1406 Performer 4bbl carb.  Did some mild port and polish on the heads with a 3-angle valve job, roller-everything with a mid-range CompCams bumpstick, blowing the gasses out thru Hooker headers and 2.5" stainless exhaust with X-pipe.  It's a beast - CompCams CamQuest utility says to expect around 400-ish at the crank, and it feels like every bit of it is there.

The good thing is with a small head distributor (mine's a Duraspark), the Ram Air Air Cleaner fits like factory.  If factory appearance is important, make sure the intake is painted the same blue as the engine block & heads, then once the factory style air cleaner is on, it'll be hard to tell the difference.

 
Thx of more information...so seems that Air Gap (Edelbrock 7564?) is not bad if just thinking street use (one more choice)...I'm still thinking Performer. Good to know that Ram Air will fit because I'm planning to add it in future to my combination. It's easy to add...it's no matter if it will not give more horses..it will just make you feel good..:).

I have also started to think that with better intake I could go to manual secondary because I have 3-speed manual  (could be some day 4 - or 5-speed). But looking carburetors suggestions it will make less options...so honestly I have started to feel confused..:D. But..some day I will make decision..:).

 
The Performer (2750) dual-plane intake has the same deck height for the carb as the factory 2bbl intake - I think the Air Gap sticks up a little higher, which will cause interference issues with the Ram Air set-up.

Be advised also that the Ram Air Air Cleaner will need a small cap distributor (like factory, Pertronix, Duraspark, et al), otherwise it will need to be modified to fit an HEI-syle cap (like MSD, DUI, etc.).  It's doable, but kind of a PITA.

 
The Performer (2750) dual-plane intake has the same deck height for the carb as the factory 2bbl intake - I think the Air Gap sticks up a little higher, which will cause interference issues with the Ram Air set-up.

Be advised also that the Ram Air Air Cleaner will need a small cap distributor (like factory, Pertronix, Duraspark, et al), otherwise it will need to be modified to fit an HEI-syle cap (like MSD, DUI, etc.).  It's doable, but kind of a PITA.
Yes..I have read somewhere that it needs that..so If plans is to have Ram Air and example MSD then MSD need to be lower one...little more expensive but would be better choice than make changes by your self..:)

 
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