351 Cleveland Cam

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

Joined
Jan 18, 2015
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Location
California
My Car
1973 Grande 351 Cleveland/FMX stock
1973 Mach1 LS2/T56
I am rebuilding my stock 2v Cleveland and brought the block to the shop today and realized the distributor drive gear on the cam is shot. I am not going to pretend to know anything about cams. My question is what is a good replacement cam? I would like to put in a very mild performance cam as the car will be daily driven. But, I honestly have no idea where to start. Once the motor is put back together I will have stock 2v heads with stock rockers/pushrods/valve springs. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated. If there is anyone who could get more in depth with info that would be even better. Such as, lift, duration and what kind of cam (hydraulic flat tappet is the standard right?)

 

4Vforever

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 30, 2014
Messages
473
Reaction score
13
Location
Australia
My Car
1973 Q code, C6 auto, 3.25 traction lock,
gold glow, ginger interior, A/C, pwr/steer/windows/disc brakes, etc
As long as the engine is kept basically standard, then the camshaft I'd recommend is the one based on the Erson RV10 grind as these are ground by many aftermarket camshaft companies such as Dynotec. We actually use to put these cams in our standard 2V Cleveland builds as they were the same price as a stock grind and would give the engine a bit more pep. They idle nicely, excellent vacuum and terrific drivability. The specs from memory are around [email protected] and valve lift is 484 on both intake and exhaust. As for your springs, they do get away with the standard type springs, but we would use the ones with the wound dampener in them. Standard pushrods and rockers are fine as long as they are in good condition, but just make sure the lifter pre load is set correctly, which usually requires shimming were the rocker fulcrums bolt to the heads. Being a stockish 2V engine they don't require split duration or extra lift on the exhaust side like a 4V. Even if you're using a 4 barrel intake and carb and even headers, this camshaft will still work very well in your application. Another thing to look at to give you the best performance/economy is your distributor. If you're still using points I'd suggest putting a Pertronix kit and also making sure the bush is in good condition, or buying a good electronic distributor (not Pro Comp or cheap eBay crap) I set Clevelands at 14-16 initial and 34-36 total at 2800-3000 RPM. Good luck with it all and if you need any further advice, remember there is a lot of people on here only too happy to offer good advice.

I just had a quick look for the cam specs and are as follows: [email protected] in & ex, lift 484 in &ex, 112 lobe separation, advertised duration 280/280 in & ex. Like I said, these cams work great in standard type engines and I have built plenty over the years with them fitted, so I know how well they respond with them.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
2,215
Reaction score
9
Location
Australia
My Car
73 Blue Glo Mach 1
Jason been ages since I have seen this cam suggested. It works better than it should, I had a XD built like this with a top loader 650 holley and it was just such a nice thing to just get in and drive anywhere anytime. I guess we all go chasing high hp and forgot old proven no fuss mild set up's.

 
Joined
Jan 18, 2015
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Location
California
My Car
1973 Grande 351 Cleveland/FMX stock
1973 Mach1 LS2/T56
As long as the engine is kept basically standard, then the camshaft I'd recommend is the one based on the Erson RV10 grind as these are ground by many aftermarket camshaft companies such as Dynotec. We actually use to put these cams in our standard 2V Cleveland builds as they were the same price as a stock grind and would give the engine a bit more pep. They idle nicely, excellent vacuum and terrific drivability. The specs from memory are around [email protected] and valve lift is 484 on both intake and exhaust. As for your springs, they do get away with the standard type springs, but we would use the ones with the wound dampener in them. Standard pushrods and rockers are fine as long as they are in good condition, but just make sure the lifter pre load is set correctly, which usually requires shimming were the rocker fulcrums bolt to the heads. Being a stockish 2V engine they don't require split duration or extra lift on the exhaust side like a 4V. Even if you're using a 4 barrel intake and carb and even headers, this camshaft will still work very well in your application. Another thing to look at to give you the best performance/economy is your distributor. If you're still using points I'd suggest putting a Pertronix kit and also making sure the bush is in good condition, or buying a good electronic distributor (not Pro Comp or cheap eBay crap) I set Clevelands at 14-16 initial and 34-36 total at 2800-3000 RPM. Good luck with it all and if you need any further advice, remember there is a lot of people on here only too happy to offer good advice.

I just had a quick look for the cam specs and are as follows: [email protected] in & ex, lift 484 in &ex, 112 lobe separation, advertised duration 280/280 in & ex. Like I said, these cams work great in standard type engines and I have built plenty over the years with them fitted, so I know how well they respond with them.
Do you know where I could find one? I have been searching around for a half hour and am having a real tough time finding one

 
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
1,679
Reaction score
51
Location
CT
My Car
73 Mustang Convertible
As long as the engine is kept basically standard, then the camshaft I'd recommend is the one based on the Erson RV10 grind as these are ground by many aftermarket camshaft companies such as Dynotec. We actually use to put these cams in our standard 2V Cleveland builds as they were the same price as a stock grind and would give the engine a bit more pep. They idle nicely, excellent vacuum and terrific drivability. The specs from memory are around [email protected] and valve lift is 484 on both intake and exhaust. As for your springs, they do get away with the standard type springs, but we would use the ones with the wound dampener in them. Standard pushrods and rockers are fine as long as they are in good condition, but just make sure the lifter pre load is set correctly, which usually requires shimming were the rocker fulcrums bolt to the heads. Being a stockish 2V engine they don't require split duration or extra lift on the exhaust side like a 4V. Even if you're using a 4 barrel intake and carb and even headers, this camshaft will still work very well in your application. Another thing to look at to give you the best performance/economy is your distributor. If you're still using points I'd suggest putting a Pertronix kit and also making sure the bush is in good condition, or buying a good electronic distributor (not Pro Comp or cheap eBay crap) I set Clevelands at 14-16 initial and 34-36 total at 2800-3000 RPM. Good luck with it all and if you need any further advice, remember there is a lot of people on here only too happy to offer good advice.

I just had a quick look for the cam specs and are as follows: [email protected] in & ex, lift 484 in &ex, 112 lobe separation, advertised duration 280/280 in & ex. Like I said, these cams work great in standard type engines and I have built plenty over the years with them fitted, so I know how well they respond with them.
Do you know where I could find one? I have been searching around for a half hour and am having a real tough time finding one
Call Erson directly.

http://www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/Erson/Camshafts/Hydraulic%20Flat%20Tappet_E?categoryId=5c615548-7a12-4d0e-9d6c-a3bf00e8a69f&filters=c9b81bc5-ecf5-4b76-9800-478974332ab4%2Cc7623eff-6cc4-47eb-b769-b167637e9262%2C12583c4b-750f-4650-afa0-a32a00e19e1c&sortby=1&page=1&pageSize=16&criteria=

 

4Vforever

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 30, 2014
Messages
473
Reaction score
13
Location
Australia
My Car
1973 Q code, C6 auto, 3.25 traction lock,
gold glow, ginger interior, A/C, pwr/steer/windows/disc brakes, etc
Jason been ages since I have seen this cam suggested. It works better than it should, I had a XD built like this with a top loader 650 holley and it was just such a nice thing to just get in and drive anywhere anytime. I guess we all go chasing high hp and forgot old proven no fuss mild set up's.
Yeah Luke you're exactly right this cam is very underrated and surprises a lot of people. Exactly, we get caught up in searching for big power that sometimes we overlook the simple things that work on basic engines. Every standard Cleveland (302/351) we would do for customers would always get comments on how well they went and a lot of F truck owners were pleasently surprised on how well they pulled. I once did a 302 for a mate's XD (too tight to go 351) with a RV15 cam in it, a mild bowl job and 3 angle valve job on the heads and the rest of it was stock (including C4 & rear gears) except 600 Holley on an adaptor plate and a 2 1/2 in exhaust from the manifolds back. This thing absolutely flew and surprised many people (including myself) on how well this thing went. Of course no one believed it was a 302 and was always accused of being a 351, so I'd tell them put their money up and I'll measure the stroke to prove it. Nobody ever wanted to put money on it as they were probably pissed that they got beat by a 302, so they probably told themselves they got beat by a 351 to make them feel better.



As long as the engine is kept basically standard, then the camshaft I'd recommend is the one based on the Erson RV10 grind as these are ground by many aftermarket camshaft companies such as Dynotec. We actually use to put these cams in our standard 2V Cleveland builds as they were the same price as a stock grind and would give the engine a bit more pep. They idle nicely, excellent vacuum and terrific drivability. The specs from memory are around [email protected] and valve lift is 484 on both intake and exhaust. As for your springs, they do get away with the standard type springs, but we would use the ones with the wound dampener in them. Standard pushrods and rockers are fine as long as they are in good condition, but just make sure the lifter pre load is set correctly, which usually requires shimming were the rocker fulcrums bolt to the heads. Being a stockish 2V engine they don't require split duration or extra lift on the exhaust side like a 4V. Even if you're using a 4 barrel intake and carb and even headers, this camshaft will still work very well in your application. Another thing to look at to give you the best performance/economy is your distributor. If you're still using points I'd suggest putting a Pertronix kit and also making sure the bush is in good condition, or buying a good electronic distributor (not Pro Comp or cheap eBay crap) I set Clevelands at 14-16 initial and 34-36 total at 2800-3000 RPM. Good luck with it all and if you need any further advice, remember there is a lot of people on here only too happy to offer good advice.

I just had a quick look for the cam specs and are as follows: [email protected] in & ex, lift 484 in &ex, 112 lobe separation, advertised duration 280/280 in & ex. Like I said, these cams work great in standard type engines and I have built plenty over the years with them fitted, so I know how well they respond with them.
Do you know where I could find one? I have been searching around for a half hour and am having a real tough time finding one
A quick look on Google found these guys in the US with genuine Erson cams, but like I said many aftermarket companies use this grind such as Dynotec (which I highly recommend if not using genuine Erson) Speed Pro, Sealed Power, etc. anyway good luck with the build.

http://usaperform.com/ford-351c-351m-hydraulic-lifter-208%C2%B0208%C2%B0-lift-p-3114.html

Just seen the post from Tommy K above about calling Erson direct which is another good idea too.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
3,629
Reaction score
568
Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
Joined
Jan 7, 2015
Messages
8,032
Reaction score
494
Location
Western North Carolina
My Car
Multiple Mustangs!
I think our Australian members are giving good advise. Too many people get too carried away and put a high lift cam with too much duration and overlap and they just will not last on the street. They are made for racing and not for lots of miles. I hear people blaming their oil for cam and lifter failures but it is normal wear on a radical cam with high spring rates. Many race situations never see 1,000 miles on an engine. Keep it mild and you will be much happier and many more miles. Might not sound as cool but will last much longer.

David

 
Joined
Aug 28, 2014
Messages
2,020
Reaction score
18
Location
Ulbjerg, Viborg, Denmark
Well David that is so Right on the Cams. But regarding my application is at the Cams is high lifting. Not a big deal when I don't drive a lot of miles. But ofcurs if you are driving to work with it every day. Denmark is a small country with small distance between towns. So down at my friend place there is a good road to do some racing [CHEQUERED FLAG] 😎[THUMBS UP SIGN][CHRISTMAS TREE] which you Merry Christmas to all [CHRISTMAS TREE][WRAPPED PRESENT] Regards Lars DK73

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73 😎

 

KT-69

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Messages
84
Reaction score
1
Location
Nebraska
My Car
All 65 to 73
Any more on the cam and engine combo....2V heads ported...polished...etc.... What intake, carb combo. That video got my attention then left me hanging with more questions than answers. How does it idle...lopey or smooth....etc....?:

Pulling up to 6K rpm with 2V heads....thats what I am talking about!!!!! More information PLEASE!!!!!

 

Mister 4x4

Too Big to Sneak
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
8,179
Reaction score
400
Location
San Angelo, Texas
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1
I should've said, "I haven't driven like Doc drove his [in the video] yet." ;) :D

Runs like a champ, fires up every time, and has great throttle response.

 
Top