71 Mach project for sale

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Tony Tabacchi

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71 Mach 1 project car. I owned 1F05J135487 many years ago and wish I'd never sold it. So I am trying to replicate my old car, although this one is an H code.
Subject: 1971 mustang mach 1 h code auto with a 429 CJ

I have come to the realization that I have more projects than I have years left. The one that makes the most sense to cut loose of is my 71 Mach 1. Not for the faint of heart or someone not willing or able to tackle something that needs pretty much everything. The car is an H code. Was an automatic A/C car. Not a rust bucket by any means, but does have typical floor pan issues and lower inner rear quarter panel problems. Someone tried to patch the floor and did a very amateurish job. Trunk floor was beautiful, but probably the same pinhead who hacked the floor tried to modify the rear suspension for a drag car dream that never happened. also needs front and rear aprons around the shock towers. It can all be fixed, if you have some determination, skills, and $. The car does have a clean title. If you haven't stopped reading yet, the good part is that the car makes up a small amount of what I need to get for this stuff. I have some really nice and rare parts that I have gathered over a couple of years.

1971 mustang mach 1 h code auto

missing hood, but I do have a pair of Hood scoops and a

Mint set of genuine Ford hood locks w/ repro lower brackets

Deluxe door panels Very nice black panels. Both have slight issues . Can describe in detail and supply pictures of any and all of this is someone is really interested.

A pillar trim. Not perfect but very decent and useable

Mint genuine rear spoiler

429 CJ engine should be torn down and freshened up. Been sitting for years. Came out of 70 Cyclone spoiler. 2 bolt block. have the q-jet carb, correct carter fuel pump. nice cj valve covers. all there except the camshaft. Have a new cj spec hyd cam for it.

CJ rh exhaust manifold and a 429 PI lh manifold. Ive been told by an expert that the PI is smaller than the CJ. I have measured the ports on both and done a visual inspection and absolutely cant tell a difference other than the casting letters. In the Ford master catalog, the PI was the service replacement for the CJ manifold. Just so you know I told you.

Factory 71 mustang cougar 429 motor mounts. all 6 pieces + original heat shields.

NORS h pipe

Qjet

all the correct 429 A/C brackets, pullies and compressor

P/S pump & brackets

C6 Not a CJ C6. Came out of a 72 LTD. I also have a NOS C6 70-73 Mustang floor shift shift shaft lever.

Correct c6 crossmember

C6 driveshaft (right length and ends. Smaller tube from a 4v 351 c6 car but will work)

Tilt column

Power seat. have 2 tracks. One is for parts. The other is nice except mount tab needs a welding repair.

NOS power seat switch but do not have bezel

Tach cluster and center gauge package. This car was not a tach car, so harness will need a modification for tach .It did/does have center gauges.

Nice Console clock (no console)

NORS black console lid

Power windows I got the complete setup out of a 73. It is all there but a bit crusty and needs TLC. The motors run but are sluggish. I have a mint set of 73 style switch bezels (woodgrain) and also a NOS set of the 71-72 switch bezels, plastic switch housings, and a few of the switches.

Fold down seat

convenience group under dash harness with the

Map light, lights on buzzer and relay, seatback release relay.

I have a pair of the seatback solenoids but am not 100% sure they are mustang.

Deluxe seat belts in tan

Seat belt lamp and harness

Parking brake lamp but is slightly flawed. But these are impossible to find, and it is useable

Heated rear glass driver quality. has some scratches. both terminals have fallen off and need to be soldered back on. I do have them. Have an excellent heated window switch and bezel, plus perfect underdash harness, harness that runs back to the glass, NOS indicator lamp and NOS relay. Its all there except for the 10 gauge yellow wire that runs out to the starter solenoid. nothing has been cut or messed with

Beautiful 71 mustang specific Am fm radio wires not cut. has Mustang script on dial. nice knobs. I have not tested it. I would assume it needs to be serviced just because of the age.

Mint urethane front bumper. some hairline cracks in the original paint. I doubt you could do much better than this one.

Staggered shocks bracketremoved from a 4V car for upper and lower plus sway bar brackets

31 spline axles

31 spline traction lock N case 3.25 complete 3rd member

freshly blasted nice 9" housing because the one in the car has been welded on for the guys pipe dream drag car. You get both.

And I am sure I could go on, but this should give a rough idea of the huge pile of stuff I have. The seats need to be reupholstered. The dash pad is trash. The 1/4 trim panels have speaker holes. The windshield is cracked. I do not have the correct door glass for power windows, but the door glass is there, as is the non heated backlite.

I will be happy to take pictures. I just don't know where to begin, so if you have specific things you'd like to see, let me know.

I got ill when I started adding up what I had tied up in this bucket of bolts. I stopped counting when I was nearly at 12,000. I would like to get somewhere close to $7000 for everything I have. If I cant dump the whole mess, I will probably part it out, but don't really want the hassle.

If you're still reading, Thank you!! :)

Tony

71must.jpg

 

Mister 4x4

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Tony, you just described my '71 H-code to a 'T,' except that mine WAS a rust bucket, and different from the fact that you have a 429 and C6. Mine was an original 351C-2V [seized] with an FMX, and has all of the same rust damage you mentioned, speaker holes in the interior qtrs, and was even the original Light Pewter color yours appears to be. Floors and trunk were toast, and the entire front clip was shot.

I should've passed it over and started with a better specimen, but I hung in there and feel like I'm potentially within 6-8 months of finishing up.

Based on your description, you might consider parting it out, because I'm not sure there are many more people out there like me who are willing (or dumb enough, in my case ;) ) to take on a project from that point (unless it's been part of the family for years or something sentimental like that). Especially, as a non-numbers-matching lowly H-code - now, an original 429 car or Boss 351... yeah.

Good luck with selling it - I certainly see the potential (you do indeed have a nice project there)... but I'm WAY too far into mine to look back now.

 

mach71351c

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72 Mustang Mach 1 (parts car)
Sounds like a good project. I hope you find the rite buyer.

 

Tony Tabacchi

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Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
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Location
Albuquerque NM
My Car
71 Mach 1 project car. I owned 1F05J135487 many years ago and wish I'd never sold it. So I am trying to replicate my old car, although this one is an H code.
Tony, you just described my '71 H-code to a 'T,' except that mine WAS a rust bucket, and different from the fact that you have a 429 and C6. Mine was an original 351C-2V [seized] with an FMX, and has all of the same rust damage you mentioned, speaker holes in the interior qtrs, and was even the original Light Pewter color yours appears to be. Floors and trunk were toast, and the entire front clip was shot.

I should've passed it over and started with a better specimen, but I hung in there and feel like I'm potentially within 6-8 months of finishing up.

Based on your description, you might consider parting it out, because I'm not sure there are many more people out there like me who are willing (or dumb enough, in my case ;) ) to take on a project from that point (unless it's been part of the family for years or something sentimental like that). Especially, as a non-numbers-matching lowly H-code - now, an original 429 car or Boss 351... yeah.

Good luck with selling it - I certainly see the potential (you do indeed have a nice project there)... but I'm WAY too far into mine to look back now.
Hi Eric,

Thanks for the input. If you're dumb, I am a total moron :)

I have spent the last 40 years rescuing cars that should've been scrapped. Made some gorgeous cars out of crap and then sold them at a huge loss. My motto is, buy high-sell low.

This one is a tough call. It has a lot of issues, but all are straight forward, if you are good at panel replacement and don't need to pay a body shop to do the work (and are willing to devote the time, energy and money) There is no sign of structural damage from a collision. The engine compartment is structurally great, but the inner aprons need to be replaced or repaired. RF has the typical battery tray rot. RR has a rust spot near the hood hinge area, and an ugly hole that was hacked for a fenderwell header. The LR has a small rust spot by the hinge. I think the LF is good. The crossmembers are nice, and other than the above mentioned rust spots, the engine compartment is excellent. Cowl is perfect.

Floors have holes, but it is not a super rotten car. Just 40+ years of soaked carpets. I would replace the entire pan rather than patch it. I think it would be easier in the long run, and certainly a lot cleaner. The trunk floor could've been saved, however, the previous owner thought he was going to make a drag car. He welded brackets in at the rear and moved the springs inboard to accommodate wider tires. (I think that's what he had in mind). I'm not sure what this guy was smoking. He attached front brackets at the frame rails forward of the axle, and move the perches inboard. It's really solid, but almost overkill. The best part is that it is all attached without destroying any of the original structure. It is going to be a matter of a few hours with a cutoff wheel and some cleanup. And when he added his rear brackets, he cut holes in the trunk floor. He also cut a couple of holes for a fuel cell. So when the trunk floor is replaced, this would be the time to add the bracket for staggered shocks I removed from another car.

At some time in this things life, the 1/4s were both replaced. they could be cleaned up, but I think it would be easier to do them over. And replace the trunk drop downs and outer wheel houses. It would be a super clean body at this point. Yes, this is a crazy amount of work, but isn't that why we love this stuff? :)

And as you mentioned, it is STILL a lowly H code. But my thoughts are that these things are getting scarcer all the time. And people don't seem to be so hung up on originality like they once were. Look at some of the crazy prices people pay for so called clones, tribute cars, etc. I think if the car is done right and has enough cool factor, it can still be worthwhile, although granted, it will never be a Boss or a CJ car. On the other side of that coin, it will be a super cool car than you can actually take out and enjoy and not worry so much about.

I have followed your project. I admire guys like you. You will have more than just a cool car to be proud of. When you pour that much of your sweat and blood into one of these, I swear, they have a soul. Good look on wrapping yours up. It will be something you can really enjoy.

Tony

 

Mister 4x4

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Wow, it's really too bad that you've come to the point of needing to sell it - I believe you would be its best chance of being properly and fully restored to its former glory... albeit with the new drivetrain. You are truly a 'car guy' to the core - you can almost feel the pain in your words in having to sell off one of your 'babies.'

Thanks for the kind words on my... endeavor. Like I said if I wasn't already so far into mine, I'd consider yours as a worthwhile investment (and chance for a couple of 'do-over' opportunities my initial lack of knowledge and skills would afford me now).

Good luck, Sir!

 
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