ok switch works now you could check the sensor behind the glove box insert.
there is 2 connectors going to the temp sensor one green and one black from memory.
you could bypass that by connecting together and check to see if the sensor went bad which would cut power to the compressor.
that would bypass the temp freeze sensor on the compressor power line.
from beyond that you could have a broken wire in the system trace the wire from the a/c compressor to the firewall connector there should be a 3 or 4 pin rubber boot connector behind the block on the drivers side firewall.
pull that apart and inspect for problems.
that black wire for the compressor goes back to that sensor switch behind the glove box which then goes to the fan duct electrical plate.
Going back into the car in the drivers side foot well up to the fan duct motor you will see a red plate with electrical connections.
pull that all apart and clean the corrosion off
picture of area
the plate has the connector for the fan duct motor speed and also ground. you can check all those wires and clean all the connectors to weed out issues.
the fan ground is up inside the dash with a phillips head screw you can reach it from the drivers foot well if you take out the drivers seat and climb in down there.
i would take out the drivers seat to make all the electric checking easy anyway.
ford crimped all those wires so it is possible there is a bad high ohm connection at one point or a wire fractured causing the clutch to not engage due to low amps but the voltage is reaching the clutch. if you have an ohm meter with alligator clips you could trace all the points and spot a super high ohms reading as a point of failure.
cleaning the connection points will drop resistance as well.