Advice on PPG black paint for hood and lower side accents

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Joined
Nov 1, 2013
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Location
Australia
My Car
1972 Pantera Group IV
2003 FPV GT
Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance

 
Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance
Being an engineer I bet they used the matte finish to reduce glare off the hood. If you go with matte, don't wax it!

 
Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance
Hi James,

I am an Aussie Pro Spraypainter, and can pass on some basic good advice to you here.

Firstly, Aussie paints are in many ways differant to American paints. (Even the same brands of paints would you believe).So buy Aussie available paints for yourself.

Secondly, spraying and achieving a nib free matt or semi gloss finish 'off the gun' is very much harder to achieve than spraying a full gloss black finish where in that case, you can denib, and then cut and polish the paint to perfection.Satins and matts can't be worked on(sanded or buffed or waxed) to remove nibs etc, without ruining the finished look.

Thirdly, you can choose to use Acrylic Lacquer paint, or 2 Pak paints to do your job. 2Pak paint is far more durable,and better wearing than Lacquer paints. However, if you're spraying a hood in satin black for example, and you're using 2Pak satin black, and you get contamination in the finish, you have no choice but to let the paint dry, resand, and then refinish.Excessive film build can then be a problem here, and may take more than two takes to get it looking right. With Lacquer, you can denib and sand out imperfections on the fly as you apply the paint.(In my case i will use Lacquer on the hood, and 2Pak down the sides for durability and stone chip resistance.)

Fourthly, if you don't want a full gloss look, I THINK A SATIN LOOK IS BEST AND MOST AUTHENTIC FOR OUR MUSTANGS.A flat black look is rather boring in many respects, and is harder to keep looking good. In Lacquer and 2Pak paints, you can start with a full gloss black and add flatting base products to the paint in varying amounts to dial in what level of gloss you want to end up with, or buy the paint premixed at a preset gloss level.

Fifthly, you can buy clearcoats in lacquer and 2Pak, and as well add flatting base or buy the clear premixed to a set gloss level as well.In this case, you would start off with a lacquer black base and then apply the satin lacquer clear, and with 2pak, start with a black basecoat, and then apply the 2Pak satin clear over the top. That's another way of approaching the matter.

I myself prefer to use the premixed satin blacks themselves to get my preferred finish. BTW - Forget using waterbased basecoats - too much drama there i think)

Sixthly, brands - you wont go wrong with PPG Australia, but i use and reccomend Hi -Chem paints for quality and durability in Lacquer and 2Pak as well. Hi Chem does premixed satin blacks that really look first class.

http://www.hichem.com.au/

Hope that helps,

Greg.:)

 
Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance
Hi James,

I am an Aussie Pro Spraypainter, and can pass on some basic good advice to you here.

Firstly, Aussie paints are in many ways differant to American paints. (Even the same brands of paints would you believe).So buy Aussie available paints for yourself.

Secondly, spraying and achieving a nib free matt or semi gloss finish 'off the gun' is very much harder to achieve than spraying a full gloss black finish where in that case, you can denib, and then cut and polish the paint to perfection.Satins and matts can't be worked on(sanded or buffed or waxed) to remove nibs etc, without ruining the finished look.

Thirdly, you can choose to use Acrylic Lacquer paint, or 2 Pak paints to do your job. 2Pak paint is far more durable,and better wearing than Lacquer paints. However, if you're spraying a hood in satin black for example, and you're using 2Pak satin black, and you get contamination in the finish, you have no choice but to let the paint dry, resand, and then refinish.Excessive film build can then be a problem here, and may take more than two takes to get it looking right. With Lacquer, you can denib and sand out imperfections on the fly as you apply the paint.(In my case i will use Lacquer on the hood, and 2Pak down the sides for durability and stone chip resistance.)

Fourthly, if you don't want a full gloss look, I THINK A SATIN LOOK IS BEST AND MOST AUTHENTIC FOR OUR MUSTANGS.A flat black look is rather boring in many respects, and is harder to keep looking good. In Lacquer and 2Pak paints, you can start with a full gloss black and add flatting base products to the paint in varying amounts to dial in what level of gloss you want to end up with, or buy the paint premixed at a preset gloss level.

Fifthly, you can buy clearcoats in lacquer and 2Pak, and as well add flatting base or buy the clear premixed to a set gloss level as well.In this case, you would start off with a lacquer black base and then apply the satin lacquer clear, and with 2pak, start with a black basecoat, and then apply the 2Pak satin clear over the top. That's another way of approaching the matter.

I myself prefer to use the premixed satin blacks themselves to get my preferred finish. BTW - Forget using waterbased basecoats - too much drama there i think)

Sixthly, brands - you wont go wrong with PPG Australia, but i use and reccomend Hi -Chem paints for quality and durability in Lacquer and 2Pak as well. Hi Chem does premixed satin blacks that really look first class.

http://www.hichem.com.au/

Hope that helps,

Greg.:)
Great advise.

 
Hello,

I have searched the forum to try and find this answer. No luck so far.

From looking at the PPG chart it seems PPG Black 9381 is correct. is that a matt paint?

If that is wrong, what PPG paint should be used for the hood black outs? is it just a matt finish or does something need to be sprayed over gloss black?

Is this the same colour used on the lower side accents also?

Thanks in advance
Hi James,

I am an Aussie Pro Spraypainter, and can pass on some basic good advice to you here.

Firstly, Aussie paints are in many ways differant to American paints. (Even the same brands of paints would you believe).So buy Aussie available paints for yourself.

Secondly, spraying and achieving a nib free matt or semi gloss finish 'off the gun' is very much harder to achieve than spraying a full gloss black finish where in that case, you can denib, and then cut and polish the paint to perfection.Satins and matts can't be worked on(sanded or buffed or waxed) to remove nibs etc, without ruining the finished look.

Thirdly, you can choose to use Acrylic Lacquer paint, or 2 Pak paints to do your job. 2Pak paint is far more durable,and better wearing than Lacquer paints. However, if you're spraying a hood in satin black for example, and you're using 2Pak satin black, and you get contamination in the finish, you have no choice but to let the paint dry, resand, and then refinish.Excessive film build can then be a problem here, and may take more than two takes to get it looking right. With Lacquer, you can denib and sand out imperfections on the fly as you apply the paint.(In my case i will use Lacquer on the hood, and 2Pak down the sides for durability and stone chip resistance.)

Fourthly, if you don't want a full gloss look, I THINK A SATIN LOOK IS BEST AND MOST AUTHENTIC FOR OUR MUSTANGS.A flat black look is rather boring in many respects, and is harder to keep looking good. In Lacquer and 2Pak paints, you can start with a full gloss black and add flatting base products to the paint in varying amounts to dial in what level of gloss you want to end up with, or buy the paint premixed at a preset gloss level.

Fifthly, you can buy clearcoats in lacquer and 2Pak, and as well add flatting base or buy the clear premixed to a set gloss level as well.In this case, you would start off with a lacquer black base and then apply the satin lacquer clear, and with 2pak, start with a black basecoat, and then apply the 2Pak satin clear over the top. That's another way of approaching the matter.

I myself prefer to use the premixed satin blacks themselves to get my preferred finish. BTW - Forget using waterbased basecoats - too much drama there i think)

Sixthly, brands - you wont go wrong with PPG Australia, but i use and reccomend Hi -Chem paints for quality and durability in Lacquer and 2Pak as well. Hi Chem does premixed satin blacks that really look first class.

http://www.hichem.com.au/

Hope that helps,

Greg.:)
Greg,

Im getting ready to buyall my paint products and had a few questions. I think i want to do a satin finish as you plan to do.

1. is it the me satin finish for the lower sides, hood and spoiler?

2. Im doing a 2 stage for the main body. Is the process your doing a single stage for the black?

3. if so do i do the color sand on the body clear then spray the black and if so do i sand the blackout areas first. im having a paint shop do it but wanted to present then with a process.

4. Does anyone no it if the side stripes come in gloss black should i avoid the pain and do all gloss black. i still think i want to do the spoiler in satin.

5. can anyone chime in on how they've done it?

Thanks

Jim

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Im getting ready to buyall my paint products and had a few questions. I think i want to do a satin finish as you plan to do.

1. is it the satin finish for the lower sides, hood and spoiler?

2. Im doing a 2 stage for the main body. Is the process your doing a single stage for the black?

3. if so do i do the color sand on the body clear then spray the black and if so do i sand the blackout areas first. im having a paint shop do it but wanted to present then with a process.

4. Does anyone no it if the side stripes come in gloss black should i avoid the pain and do all gloss black. i still think i want to do the spoiler in satin.

5. can anyone chime in on how they've done it?

Hi Jim,

1. Yes, i personally think the satin black finish all over is the best look. You can mix gloss with satin, but i prefer one or the other myself.

2. You can choose to go 2Pack black or use acrylic lacquer black. 2 Pack is a more durable finish then lacquer, especially on the lower rockers area. I will be using lacquer on my hood and spoiler, but 2Pack down the lower sides. The purchased side stripes are a satin black i think.

3. Firstly, paint the entire car with 2pack base coat/clear coat. You now have three basic options to paint your black areas. Option 1 is to color sand the clear, and then cut and polish the whole car, then mask up the areas to be painted black, and then detail sand those areas carefully with 800 wet and dry, then spray the black and that's it. Option 2 is don't color sand the clear, but move in straight after the clear has dried off the gun, and then mask up, then detail sand the black masked areas with 800 wet and dry, then paint the black on. When the black has dried properly, carefully and accurately re mask the black areas off so you can wet color sand the clear and cut and polish it as well without disturbing the black areas. Option 3 is to color sand the clear, but don't cut and polish it yet.You don't have to detail sand the black areas with this option. You then move in and mask off the black areas, then spray the black. When dry, remask off the black areas again, and then cut and polish without disturbing the black satin paint. I favor the option one method myself over the others. Also, i decided to buy a good quality quarter inch black pinstripe tape for my out side finish lines instead of painting the stripe on. These processes as described above relate to the use of a satin finish only. The gloss black finish is applied a different way. You would most likely color sand the entire hood clear coat for example, then mask off the black area, and spray the black on with a black base coat paint. Then unmask the black areas, and then apply another 2 to 3 good coats of clear over the whole hood again. Then when dry, color sand and cut and polish the whole hood.

4. Gloss or satin, some people love gloss and some love the satin look. The big win with choosing the gloss look is that the painting process is much less involved and easier to do when you choose a gloss finish. Ongoing maintenance is vastly easier to achieve with a gloss finish as well. Also, some people don''t like an edge ridge from the black to clear coat. That edge ridge can be eliminated when you finish with a gloss black look. Mixing gloss and satin is a do, but all satin or all gloss is the best way to go i think.

The side stripes could be gotten in gloss with a special order maybe. (not sure)

5. I'm going lacquer satin black for my hood and rear spoiler, and 2 Pack satin for the lower rocker panels, which includes the front and rear valence panels as well. I will be using the quarter inch black satin fine line tape for the hood relief and the lower rocker panel sections to finish off. (done that on the hood 2 years ago and it works like a charm)

Hope that helps,

Greg.:)

 
Greg

im using ppg products. can you tell me what black you went with? So even on the hood you used the 1/4 inch tape. I would be concerned about the match. What was the reason for not painting the 1/4 " on the hood?I planned to do it on the lower blackout but not the hood. Did yours match. If so than maybe i can get your exact products?

thanks Jim

 
My procedure would be to base the car do your clear mask off for stripes wet sand 600-800 Satin black base then ppg matte clear coat over the base OR you could just use HOT ROD BLACK 2k single stage.... of course you would NOT BUFF THOSE AREAS. I would also do some experimentation since I'd want to "lose" the edge where the stripes are..When I was doing show car graphics a common technique is to clear the car with 2 coats, wet sand, paint your graphics, clear the graphic & lay extra clear down on the edges...you then wet sand those edges flat...apply 2-3 more coats of clear to the entire car..no hard edge mile deep shine.. It might be worth while to call ppg ask for the name of the rep in your area speak to him get some input they can be a wealth of knowledge OR speak to a phone tech at ppg http://www.ppg.com/en/newsroom/news/Pages/20130103C.aspx

OR you could just wrap with vinyl call it a day might be the best option..This way you have the gloss finish underneath apply the decal & your done if it ever gets messed up pull off & put another on..

 
We used the Hot Rod Black and it came out very well. Our painter recommended Sprayway Glass cleaner to clean it. As it happens Good-Guys is giving small cans of it with their show registration package. http://www.spraywayinc.com/

 
Greg

im using ppg products. can you tell me what black you went with? So even on the hood you used the 1/4 inch tape. I would be concerned about the match. What was the reason for not painting the 1/4 " on the hood?I planned to do it on the lower blackout but not the hood. Did yours match. If so than maybe i can get your exact products?

thanks Jim
Jim,

Firstly, let's talk paints -

OK, the Aussie brand paint i used (Hi Chem Paints) won't be available in the States. As i said before, you choose if you want to use 2Pack black or Acrylic lacquer black for the black areas around your car. You can use one or the other, or both. What ever way you go there, the best way to buy the blacks is in a premixed form. That means that the flatting agent has already been mixed in the black before you bought it. Most paint companies will state the percentage of gloss level on the can label. In my case, i chose a 30% gloss level, and that gave me a beautiful low gloss black look for my lacquer and my 2Pack black paints respectably.

You or your painter could just buy the blacks and then add the matting agent in yourself later, but you have to be very careful to measure out the exact amount of agent you add because the next time you go to make up more black, you would want the gloss level to be the same. PPG makes great paints, but you are not bound down to sticking with that brand if they can't offer you a premixed satin 2Pack or lacquer paint. I'm sure you will find good quality companies over there that supply the premixed blacks.

SEM Hot Rod Black was mentioned above. I did the research on that, and that is a 2Pack pre mixed satin black. I use SEM here in Oz, and i like it as a brand. As Scott said, take the trouble to talk to a PPG rep, and see what paints they can offer you in the pre mixed blacks before shopping around with other brands. Also, remember what i said before. I chose to use lacquer on my hood relief and rear deck spoiler because when you are spraying the 2Pack black, and you get dirt in the finish as you are applying the paint, your only option then is to let the paint dry, and then sand down the finish, and then respray the paint all over again. The problem is, what do you do if you keep on getting dirt in the finish with your second or third take at respraying the panel. You get a big paint build up, which you don't wont. With lacquer, you can denib and sand the dirt out of the finish as you are applying the paint, because lacquer drys so quickly on it's first stage flash off. You then get a dirt free satin finish with the end result. Remember with satin finishes, you can't touch or rectify them after the paint has been applied to make any adjustments or rectifications.

Now let's talk about my using this quarter inch black tape. Most painters will mask out the black areas which include the outside line as well. You or your painter can buy a pre cut stencil for the layout of the black relief on the hood for example if you want to go that way. I did the layout and the masking out including the outside stripe and did not buy the stencil myself.

Here's where it gets a little technical. I chose option one as explained above. My 2Pack clear coat had been color sanded and cut and polished on the hood. I then masked off the black area plus outside stripe, carefully sanded the black area to be painted right up to the masked edges, sprayed the black lacquer on. The trouble i had was when i carefully peeled away the 3M fineline masking tape, i did not get a perfect clean edge on some parts of the quater inch line. That's a big no no. However, if i had chosen option 2 method, i most likely would have solved that problem.

It's to do with color sanding the whole area first and then masking up for the black area. That's a better way of ensuring you get better adhesion on the peel away edges of the black paint. So in my case, i was locked in having cut and polished the panel first. BTW, WHY I CHOSE TO CUT AND POLISH FIRST AND THEN APPLY THE BLACK, was to do with the little section of color that lies between the outside stripe and the main black area. That of course remains glossy, and if you have color sanded it first, is very hard to polish up to gloss once the you've sprayed the black and removed all the masking tape. So in my case, i then cut my loses, and decided to buy a good quality quarter inch satin black pinstripe, and use that for the outside striping. It matched the main black area, and looks very good. It's durable and stands up to wear and tear well. You should be able buy a good black pinstripe in America.IF YOU GO THAT WAY, AND CAN'T FIND A PRODUCT, LET ME KNOW AND I'LL POST THE SAME PRODUCT OVER TO YOU THAT I USED MYSELF.

005.JPG

Hope all that helps,

Greg.:)

 
Thanks everyone for their inputs. This stuff sure is stressful!

Scott, not sure if they can mask the hood? that seems like it would be hard.

Jim.
Jim,

Nowadays they can vinyl wrap anything including entire cars as a matter of fact if I do decide to do the blackout on my hood side stripes I'm doing it in a vinyl wrap If i don't like it I can always peel & then paint ,less work, less aggravation ,easier to repair

http://www.superwraps.com/

 
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